Anti-seize on back side of rims?
What makes you think it is under torqued. More likely over torqued.
I should also add that I have never needed any lube or anti-seize on lug nuts, and never had a problem with rust on them, even on an 8 year old vehicle. The hub is another story as with alloys you have 2 dissimilar metals causing corrosion.
I should also add that I have never needed any lube or anti-seize on lug nuts, and never had a problem with rust on them, even on an 8 year old vehicle. The hub is another story as with alloys you have 2 dissimilar metals causing corrosion.
Last edited by kingfish51; Nov 24, 2011 at 06:40 PM.
I dont think they're under torqued; I never said mine were over or under torqued...don't know what you're getting at here?
I set my torque wrench to 105 lb/ft. Do I care if they're exactly 105??? Nope! What's important to me is that they're all even. Regardless, seems like I'm not alone!
I set my torque wrench to 105 lb/ft. Do I care if they're exactly 105??? Nope! What's important to me is that they're all even. Regardless, seems like I'm not alone!
I dont think they're under torqued; I never said mine were over or under torqued...don't know what you're getting at here?
I set my torque wrench to 105 lb/ft. Do I care if they're exactly 105??? Nope! What's important to me is that they're all even. Regardless, seems like I'm not alone!
I set my torque wrench to 105 lb/ft. Do I care if they're exactly 105??? Nope! What's important to me is that they're all even. Regardless, seems like I'm not alone!
I thin layer for the mounting surface w/anti-seize. I don't have a problem. I've fought with other peoples stuck wheels tho. For the most part, just the rears. Some people don't so much as rotate they're wheels. I'll pound the inside of the rims w/a sledge and a block of wood, - hard as I can.. If that don't do it, I'll beat the outside of the rim. I can get a better swing at it from outside. I do use a good size chunk of wood. Hard part, -getting someone to hold it for some reason. (?)-no damage unless I miss. 
If you must use Anti-seize on the lugs (I never have either), reduce torque by about 33% or 1/3. So 100' lbs dry = 67' lbs wet. That will get you in the ball park. 33% has always been about the average when reducing values for Anti-Seize, unless there's a spec wet value documented.

If you must use Anti-seize on the lugs (I never have either), reduce torque by about 33% or 1/3. So 100' lbs dry = 67' lbs wet. That will get you in the ball park. 33% has always been about the average when reducing values for Anti-Seize, unless there's a spec wet value documented.
I always anti-seize everything on my truck. I put a nice coat around the drums to stop the wheels from sticking and always coat the studs and just about everything else. I rotate my tires regularly, but it's just extra insurance to prevent corrosion, especially in PA winter months.
I've not used 'anti seize' on anything on my truck?? Have never even had a tube of it before??
My wheels come off just fine. So do the rear drums and the front rotors.. Check 'em when I rotate the tires about every 10,000 miles.. Yes, I go that far between rotations because @ 5000 miles, the tires look fine... Oh, I get new tires when they get to around 60% worn too... I get about 40,000 miles out of them by that time... Yes, they do have good tread left, but I find that after 50%, they are essentially done... I've never gone to the "wear marks" on a set of tires for this truck... Driving in the rain in the NW on our crappy roads makes it necessary to have some tread depth or you are hydroplaning all over the place!
Mitch
My wheels come off just fine. So do the rear drums and the front rotors.. Check 'em when I rotate the tires about every 10,000 miles.. Yes, I go that far between rotations because @ 5000 miles, the tires look fine... Oh, I get new tires when they get to around 60% worn too... I get about 40,000 miles out of them by that time... Yes, they do have good tread left, but I find that after 50%, they are essentially done... I've never gone to the "wear marks" on a set of tires for this truck... Driving in the rain in the NW on our crappy roads makes it necessary to have some tread depth or you are hydroplaning all over the place!
Mitch
Last edited by MitchF150; Dec 2, 2011 at 01:07 PM.
I use antisieze on the hubs and my lugs on all our vehicles. We also tighten the lug nuts until they're snug, whatever ft-lb that equals lol. I want to make sure they're loose enough that I can get them off on the side of the road if I have a flat.
A shop changed my tires a couple years ago and I had to get an impact to bust them loose, my x-wrench was bending...
A shop changed my tires a couple years ago and I had to get an impact to bust them loose, my x-wrench was bending...
Oh, I get new tires when they get to around 60% worn too... I get about 40,000 miles out of them by that time... Yes, they do have good tread left, but I find that after 50%, they are essentially done... I've never gone to the "wear marks" on a set of tires for this truck... Driving in the rain in the NW on our crappy roads makes it necessary to have some tread depth or you are hydroplaning all over the place!
Mitch
Mitch
My last set of Nitto's were in that exact scenario. I had plenty of tread left. But at 50K, I just couldn't stand them anymore.
Galaxy.. Yes, I'm already finding that on my current set of tires... I've got about 35,000 miles on them since 2009 and I'm finding they don't have the traction that they did when they were new... I can spin them at will on wet pavement if I want to... When they were new, I'd have to practically 'mat' the pedal to get them to break loose on wet pavement!
Lincolns head still goes to his chin on the tread depth too!
Mitch
Lincolns head still goes to his chin on the tread depth too!
Mitch
I have not had much trouble with my wheels. Sticking to the Hub but if I was going to use anything I would definitely clean the rust from the hub with a wire brush and the center hole in the wheel with the scotch brite pad and then A VERY light coating of either antiseize or NO-ALOX which is for use with aluminium conductor terminations in th electrical industry that stuff works well and prevents oxidation and corrosion between dissimilar metals .... this is just a suggestion I have had the unfortunate displeasure of stuck wheels on other vehicles when I drove a wrecker .... The dodge dakota and the Durangos were notorious for being stubborn (IMO and experience) I always got a laugh @ grown able body men who called triple A for a tire change... My truck gets a tire rotation every 5,000 miles so I don't ever have trouble on mine.... Some people never do any maintenance themselves and when the day comes it can be a pita
I've been using anti-seize on my wheel lugs of all my vehicles 100% of the time since 1999 when I found lug nuts on my 1983 F250 diesel had nearly welded themselves to the lugs.
I've always used a torque wrench to adjust the tightness on wheel lugs when I tighten them myself & I re-torque them if someone else messes with the lugs. Since I started using antiseize on the lugs in 1999 I've driven my pickups 120,000 miles & other vehicles about 50,000 miles, and never once had wheels fall off or lugs break off.
Take that for what it's worth.
I bought my 2001 F150 at 11,000 miles, and by 16,000 when I first attempted to rotate the tire, the aluminum rims had seized to the steel rotors. I had to take the vehicle to a garage to complete the rotation. The mechanic lay under the truck while it was slightly elevated & kicked outward to dislodge the 2 worst wheels.
I ID'd the contact points between the aluminum and the steel & smeared antiseize over them, renew it as needed, and have had no further problems with this.
I've always used a torque wrench to adjust the tightness on wheel lugs when I tighten them myself & I re-torque them if someone else messes with the lugs. Since I started using antiseize on the lugs in 1999 I've driven my pickups 120,000 miles & other vehicles about 50,000 miles, and never once had wheels fall off or lugs break off.
Take that for what it's worth.
I bought my 2001 F150 at 11,000 miles, and by 16,000 when I first attempted to rotate the tire, the aluminum rims had seized to the steel rotors. I had to take the vehicle to a garage to complete the rotation. The mechanic lay under the truck while it was slightly elevated & kicked outward to dislodge the 2 worst wheels.
I ID'd the contact points between the aluminum and the steel & smeared antiseize over them, renew it as needed, and have had no further problems with this.
I've had similar experience, and so I always re-torque my wheels after strangers mess with them.






