I have been tasked w/ the job of repairing the VP of our company's personal truck. One of the issues noted was an exhaust leak. Once I got it home and started looking it over I found that both manifold to y-pipe studs on the drivers side are gone, and 1 is gone on the pass. side. The pass. side manifold has a broken bolt at the end closest to the firewall (as evidenced by the black soot on the head around the bolt), and I'm sure the drivers is missing a top one.

Basically, I'm going to have to pull both manifolds from the truck and replace them. What I'm looking for here is any guidance/suggestions that may help this process along. I've delt w/ broken studs before and its never fun. Not even sure the best way to get to the manifolds yet. It looks like my best bet is to go through the wheel wells to get at the bolts. May try up top too for the upper ones depending on clearance.

Is there a recommended replacement manifold for this truck (OEM, Dorman, etc.)? He does not want to go w/ longtubes. Not sure if there is a bolt on header that would allow stock placement of the rest of the y-pipe so that could possibly be an option, but the price can't be outrageous. He's just looking for cost near what OEM would be. We're not out to create a power monster just return it back to its non-leaking self, lol...

And I'm going into this assuming that I will break a manifold bolt or 2. In the past I've used the square tipped removers on these. Is that still the best way to get em out on this one? They are soaking in PB Blaster as I type so hopefully they come out in one piece.

 

Not a help but be sure the owner understands the situation before you begin so there is no misunderstanding of the cost and time that might occurr.
If a bolt breaks off in a head, it has a major effect on time and cost.
Good luck.

 

When I cracked one 4 years ago, I replaced it with an aftermarket OEM looking one from Ebay. I think I paid 40 or so for it. Something else to keep in mind will be the EGR tube. That little s.o.b. was like $80 (dealer only part). Good luck buddy!

-MColford

 

Well, so far so good. Got the pass side off and all studs out w/o breaking one in the head, and the drivers side is off with 1 stud left to remove. EGR tube bit the dust, but oh well. It was kind of expected judging by the amount of rust on these mani's.

Now comes another question. After searching the forum for input it seems the best new stud/nut hardware to go with is the updated stainless set from Ford, and then use a copper antiseize on them upon install. Is there anything more recommended for stock mani's besides the Ford ones? I haven't seen any convincing evidence to suggest otherwise and I really don't want to go with just plain hex-head bolts/washers.

And as far as gaskets go, I see either OEM Ford or Fel-Pro's work best. Are there any that may be better? OEM better than Fel-Pro? What about any type of copper RTV on them?

Think that's it for now, lol... The rest I'll have to post in the drivetrain section once I get to that point on the truck.

 

I used the update kit and Ford gasket when i installed my longtubes. I used the spray on copper gasket stuff on both sides of the ford gaskets.. like you mentioned before use the copper based antisieze on every stud and nut. Also remember to retorque after 4 heat cycles..

 

Off to Ford I go then. Thanks!

Now I just have to locate the proper torque specs for the studs and nuts. I'm sure Ford can tell me that while I'm there.

And got that last stud out last night! All 16 studs came out w/o breaking in the head

 

Your most likely going to need a new EGR manifold fitting. That's included with Doreman replacements, - not sure what you have worked out.

Cheapest place for the EGR tube is ebay.

 

It's a special fitting on the 98 -





They'll leak without the correct part.

 

Okay, I see you know about Dorman. I missed that earlier. Yea, that's the easiest route.

 

Yep, picked up both mani's from Dorman. In fact the drivers side showed up yesterday and it appears to have the adapter in it for the EGR. Got the EGR for $39.60 shipped.

After some reading I am questioning the type of anti-seize for the studs though. I was going to use the copper based one, but some have said to use nickel instead? I can see how the nickel would be better for the al. heads but would like some feedback on that before I drop the $25 on the nickel version.

 

I've never used it for the exhaust studs, "modular heads". Yes, -I realize dissimilar metals comes into play, but Ford doesn't use it, it's not a requirement and I've never had a problem removing exhaust studs from an aluminum head. Why they break is solely because of friction/vibration and stress. Stress resulting from a worn transmission bushing since it's connected thru a damper hanger on the crossover.

On the other hand, I don't see what it would hurt.

 

So either one will work then I take it? Copper version is a lot cheaper.

I've read about the possibility of the trans. mount causing this. I'll have to see if I can find it and make sure its all good. I [I]really[I] don't want to have to do this again. Not only from a time standpoint, but I don't think the boss would be happy either. I take pride in doing it right ONCE and he knows it.

And dang, Ford sure is proud of these SS studs. $101.28 for 16 studs! Do they come w/ someone to install them as well?

I told them to keep the manifold gaskets as they want $30.70 EACH, and I need 4 of them. F-that. Fel-Pro here I come!

 

Sounds like you plan on doing it again using SS studs and anti seize. A quick release system for some reason. (?) - Costing someone or yourself some cash. Then, - you want to use cheap gaskets lol.

OEM triples are pretty close to the best.

Dorman studs would have been plenty good enough,- they're kits usually come with new manifold to system studs as well. All for about 25% of what you paid.

BUT, if your that dead set on using Anti seize, - reduce torque by at least 30% so you don't rip the threads out the heads.

Just sayin or pointing a few things out rather...

 

I"ll skip on the antiseize then. And the SS studs were what were recommended, so that's what I went with. Like I said, not looking to do this again when the steel ones rust again, lol.. I've had my fill and I'm not even close to done w/ this truck. And yes, the Dorman mani's came w/ 3 studs to connect the system so I'm good there.

So the FelPros suck that bad, huh? I just can't see why Ford wants $120 for 4 gaskets. I'm gonna have to search around for a better price on those and see what turns up. I guess if I have to go to Ford for them then that's the way it is.

Appreciate the suggestions on this

 

Yea, The Ford SS will rust anyway. Just takes a little longer, not much. Here's a SS set I used in the past -



They were so corroded that you couldn't see the threads on the studs before I wire wheeled them lol. But yea, they all spun right out.

They are better, I agree. Make sure you get stainless nuts as well. Also, when you torque and re-torque, work from the center out.
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Personally it's either OEM or Victor Reinz for exhaust IMO. VR's, -the Poly coated Multi-Layered Steel type.