Wow , I've never come across that before, -3 types of plugs I've seen two types before, but never 3.

Must of had a problem in the past. What do the coils look like ? Are they all Yellow labeled. I believe the 02's are Yellow. I've had problems in the past with the Yellows. The best coils I've run are the GAMMA's from Global. If you order coils over the net, trust me and order these, but order the 10 pack. Do exactly what I say and you'll get the good ones -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNIT...Q5fAccessories

Order this set and NO OTHER.

You will get these. -



________________________________________________

Injectors

If they pulled out of the block, just make sure the hats are still attached or pintel caps. Their brown in color, like this @ the bottom (the EV1's)-



Reason, sometimes they fall off and get wedged / cause problems.

Other than that, they just fit back into the rail and bottom port. You twist to seat the O-ring. Their seat when the rail bolt holes line up.

 

KingCog, heed those words!!! jbrew and Bluegrass are like GODS around here . . I am just glad he didn't disagree with what a normal human has just stated ... ..


And jbrew... the ad mentions nothing about Gamma as you show. What's the diff. between them and , say , Accel or MSD ? Just askin'. But 10 for the price of 8... gotta be great

 

Not a God, -just plenty of Trial and ERROR lol. Thanks for the compliment



BTW- The easiest way to grease up the coil boots. Pull the boots from the spring. With a screwdriver , run a bead of dielectric down the shaft. Insert the screwdriver into the boot and with a circular motion, grease the entire inside of the boot. This will do is focus pulse directly to the plug. Without it, pulse can jump leaving carbon trails inside the boots eventually weakening part, leaving it susceptible to moisture.

Next, test spring to coil blade connection. Pull on it a couple times, make sure it's connected well.

Push boot back onto coil.

Reach inside the boot, pull the spring about 1/2" past the boots end. Use a paperclip or whatnot to hold the spring in this position.

Clean the spring end(plug contact point) w/Lacquer thinner or a grease cutting agent.

Release paperclip so the spring recoils back into the boot.

On the outside of the boot, grease the top seam of the boot. It's a moisture preventative.

Install the coil in a twisting motion once boot has contacted plug.

( NOTE: The spark-plugs porcelain should have a thin coat of grease already applied to, - before the plugs were installed, - so the new boots will mount correctly. New boots tend to stick making mounting difficult when new. So try not to forget that when installing the plugs and it will go easy)

Last step. Grease the void between the plug boot and head best you can. This will keep moisture out of the plug wells in the future and keep all 8 firing healthy.

 

Ummm... BS ... .. You two have info and sources most of us either wouldn't understand, nor appreciate.... or just do not have access to. Personally, if I had the spare cash... I'd probably at least get AllData for the extra knowledge and heads-ups ..

 

Going by record, Accels have the worst. MSD's have good coil packs, but there's no record about their coils for COP systems. GAMMA's when I did a comparison are identical to Motorcraft coils. Coil resistance was the same or close enough to call it that. Certain signatures on the housings allow the ability to identify like/same origins.

With any coil set, it's possible to get a bad one out of the bunch. I've never had that problem, but read of other users who have. No seller including the dealership can get away from that. It happens. Since their cheap, it's nice have a couple spares around and if you do get a bad one, your covered. Like I said, I've never had a bad one from this seller, - some users have, but you have to question the install as well.

GAMMA's are what they sell. I'm not sure if they only come in the 10 pack boxes. That's what I have ordered for me and others in the past. I get GAMMA's each time.

 

I rest my case!!! good nite jbrew

 

ALLData is all right, but it's vehicle specific. A Library Card is better IMO, since they have manufacturers data and you have access to all makes and years. That and a workshop DVD that covers your vehicle. Those are on sale @ Ebay.

 

 

Phew! Thanks so much guys! Red, thanks for all your help thus far, and jbrew, thank god you're here!! HA! I was hoping you'd be by to drop some input - read a LOT of your posts and knew whatever you'd recommend to me would be spot on!

I'll likely just make do with the coils i have for now, grease them up, and keep them in until the Global COPs you mentioned come in (likely take a week or two, and truck can't be out of commission that long).

The COPs i pulled out look more or less the same, but no colour on them - just all black, one was a bit shinier black than the others (back one), and one had a yellow sticker on it - but i'm almost positive that was the one i had a blowout with.

And thanks so much for the grease procedure...i never would have known to do it like that!!

All things considered, it hasn't been bad thus far, and i've stayed totally calm. Just wanted to make sure on those points. Actually the hardest part thus far was getting the hoses and crap out of the way.

The hose i think is replaceable by a generic one. Went to the parts store and they had a bunch that looked identical to it, just plain black rubber, maybe 12" long, pushed on at both ends (no clamps). Wish i knew what it was called...just two identical tubes run side by side from a little rail off toward the wheel well, and run to attach just above the fuel rail.

Again, thanks so much guys! I'll post some pics of the plugs when i get them all out...who knows what i'll find on the passenger side.

 

Passenger side is easy... you do not have to remove the fuel rail or anything. Just might need a long 3/8 extension and a swivel joint to get the back one out.... no biggie. Patience

 

I remove the rail on the 5fours because of #6 and #7. It takes more time fumbling around with this procedure than it does just to remove the 2 8mm bolts on the rail and flip it up onto the intake. You can loose quite a few sockets as well, - if you don't lol. I just lay some rags down around the coils first because you will catch some fuel doing so.

Once you do it a few times, you figure out the quicker ways. They may not look like shortcuts at first, but once you do it, you can fly thru it pretty quick. Now you don't remove the rail, you just get it out of the way.
It can be moved up out of the way in about 2 minutes time. Or you can work around it. It's a choice, I've tried it both ways.



I replace injectors, Intake gaskets, re polish inside the upper and clean out the lower. So I remove a whole lot more every plug change now, - on the 98 truck anyway. It has allot of miles, -over a quarter million lol.

 

If your talking about the two DPFE lines, you need special heat resistant lines. Their braided more than once and made of high temp silicone. I've only seen those @ the dealer. Not high temp coolant line, that will melt and make a mess.

 

DPFE Lines -

 

And one is bigger than the other as not to get them mis-connected from the metal tube down next to the manifold ...up to the DPFE sensor. Basically a no-brainer hose connection for most

 

By the looks/sounds of it, that's what they are - DPFE lines (well line, only ripped one, although likely smart to replace both?).

I guess i'll give Ford a call on Tuesday to see if they've got some in stock. Anyone ballpark a price? Are they one of those stupid parts that are worth 50 cents, but cost 150 bucks?!

Going to go tackle the rest here in an hour or two.

Thanks again...this is helping a great deal!