what ring/pinion options were offered for my truck?
what ring/pinion options were offered for my truck?
I have a 4.6L 2wd V8 XLT. It has a 3.08 (8.8") rear end in it now. I know with the Mustang crowd in 8.8" rear ends it went:
2.73
3.08
3.27
3.55
3.73
4.10
What ring/pinion gear set ups were offered in the 1997-2003 F150 models like mine????
2.73
3.08
3.27
3.55
3.73
4.10
What ring/pinion gear set ups were offered in the 1997-2003 F150 models like mine????
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I'm not looking for a "performance" gain of any sort, other than possibly finding a better gear for pulling a trailer around (w/o KILLING my fuel mileage when I am not pulling). Long story short is I had a slight problem with the rear end in the truck, I may have fixed it, maybe not, only time will tell. If it goes south, I am thinking I'd put a 3.31 in it, and send my computer down to a place in GA that can re-calibrate it to keep the converter locked up a little better in OD, so that I can pull a small trailer, on the highway, in OD, with the converter locked up. Right now my only option is PERFECTLY flat gound, 60-65 mph, converter locked up in OD. But if there's just the SLIGHTEST tiny curve in the road, or the smallest headwind (sometimes even being passed by a semi) the truck won't stay in OD/locked up. It's annoying. The only option is turn off the OD, then I am turning 2300rpm's at 65-70mph and getting 11mpg at best on the highway.
My buddy has a highly modded 7.3PSD and pulls a LOT of trailers, he speaks very highly of the computer upgrade, it only costs about $150
My buddy has a highly modded 7.3PSD and pulls a LOT of trailers, he speaks very highly of the computer upgrade, it only costs about $150
the 4.10's will be a lot better for towing performance and mileage should increase since you won't be working your motor as hard
if you are going to regear it you might as well make it worth your while, and no reasonto spend money sending your ECM out for a recalibration when you can get a custom tune for the same if not less money and hassle
you have a motor (that many consider gutless as it is a higher RPM motor and does not make much low end torque) that you cannot compare to a turbo diesel
if you are going to regear it you might as well make it worth your while, and no reasonto spend money sending your ECM out for a recalibration when you can get a custom tune for the same if not less money and hassle
you have a motor (that many consider gutless as it is a higher RPM motor and does not make much low end torque) that you cannot compare to a turbo diesel
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My truck came with 3.31s and those are awful. If you're looking for a good mix of economy and towing then go for at least 3.55 if not 3.73.
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the 4.10's will be a lot better for towing performance and mileage should increase since you won't be working your motor as hard. if you are going to regear it you might as well make it worth your while, and no reasonto spend money sending your ECM out for a recalibration when you can get a custom tune for the same if not less money and hassle. you have a motor (that many consider gutless as it is a higher RPM motor and does not make much low end torque) that you cannot compare to a turbo diesel
That just doesn't sound right!!!?? Remember, I am pulling a trailer on a semi-regular basis, and it's always for long distances when I do. I really don't want to sacrifice much of my highway manners and fuel economy when I'm NOT pulling the trailer. Here's the place I talked to about doing my computer:
http://www.dp-tuner.com/
They said they can fix the lock-up issue for the OD, and add another 10-15 horsepower w/o hurting anything, for about $150
I've ridden in my buddies 7.3 F250 and 7.3 F350's, and I realize that I'll never make anywhere near that level of power. But I'm not trying to. I'm just trying to make a gentle "nudge" to my towing capabilites to make life a little easier when I am towing.
If you want to use DP, get their SCT X3.
It's very likely you will get BETTER highway gas mileage with lower gears. The engine will be operating in a more efficient RPM range. The high gears only show better gas mileage on the EPA tests, not in the real world.
I used a gear ratio calculator - I show with 3.08's and stock 30 inch tires, you are doing about 1700 rpm in OD at 70. 3.73's only bring that up to 2050.
It's very likely you will get BETTER highway gas mileage with lower gears. The engine will be operating in a more efficient RPM range. The high gears only show better gas mileage on the EPA tests, not in the real world.
I used a gear ratio calculator - I show with 3.08's and stock 30 inch tires, you are doing about 1700 rpm in OD at 70. 3.73's only bring that up to 2050.
My fuel mileage will get BETTER with the steeper gears????
That just doesn't sound right!!!?? Remember, I am pulling a trailer on a semi-regular basis, and it's always for long distances when I do. I really don't want to sacrifice much of my highway manners and fuel economy when I'm NOT pulling the trailer.
That just doesn't sound right!!!?? Remember, I am pulling a trailer on a semi-regular basis, and it's always for long distances when I do. I really don't want to sacrifice much of my highway manners and fuel economy when I'm NOT pulling the trailer. use the search feature, many people who have switched from 3.55's to 4.10 had mileage and driveability improve
my dad has a '63 F100 with 3.03 gears, I have a '65 F250 with 4.56 gears both have 33" tires, mine gets better mileage, has a larger motor and is a lot more fun to drive
but it's your truck and your choice
Last edited by stoffer; Aug 30, 2010 at 01:02 PM.
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Maybe I am your dad....... 

Seriously though, I'll keep all this in consideration. In looking around the junkyards are PROUD of these used 8.8" rear ends, a lot of these guys want $500+ for them....


Seriously though, I'll keep all this in consideration. In looking around the junkyards are PROUD of these used 8.8" rear ends, a lot of these guys want $500+ for them....










