The large forward IFS does not come close to contacting under full flex as long as you cut the welded plate off for the front a-arm mount that sits on the back half of it.
The lower section of the motor mount and rear a-arm mount does get in the way of the panhard still even after cutting it high.

 

Klitch, I feel bad that this "future moderator" has de-railed your thread.
Trimble welcome back, the rest of us actually appreciate what you've brought to the forum.
p.s. that bronco is sweet!

 

"Infact im drooling now for no reason. ive got a puddle on the desk here of drool."



This should tell everyone the mindset of an unstable individual. I surfed and studied many threads on this site and have been around for a long time. (TOOL) fits this member perfectly. Of course, this is MHO. But I somehow doubt anyone will contest my words. Maybe he should change his user name to DRAMA. To the OP, I look forward to seeing your completed project. Your work is bar none!!

 

Truck is complete, but in the shop yet again, this time I have to pull the motor. Either a plug detonated, or was faulty to begin with. 3-4000 miles on the plug and the ground electrode is burned back, the porcelain is gone, that cylinder shows 0psi.

Going to repair the engine, probably buy degree adjustable cam gears this time and make sure the timing of cams is proper. Always had a rich issue and 4 years later, I cant convince myself the guy who assembled the long block degree'd it properly.
Replace power steering pump and gearbox.
Hopefully talk myself into the heater core, hate doing work on the interior.




I have one person that wants more pictures and measurements of the brackets, I'll try to accomodate.

 

cleanedup the thread. Everyone needs to keep it on topic please :o

 

Thanks Pat.

 

thank you

sorry klitch

 

thank you

stitches great build, pretty cool to see SAS build on this body style truck. very few out there.

 

Cleaned it up nicely pat.

There are few with sas but i will soon be one of those few. My 39's are tough on my balljoints. And to tell the truth i dont want to deal with my not great angles and replacing ball joints. So sas it will be. And thank you for making this thread and sharing your build klitch it is and will be very helpfull to me as i get started on my first build.

 

Last week I lost at least one cylinder. I replaced plugs and coils. What a PITA. number 7 was missing half the porcelin and number eight ground electrode was way off to the side. The other 6 were good. Truck is running good again but wonder where the hell that porcelin went.

 

I wasn't lucky from my guess. cyl 1 is 0 psi wet or dry. I didnt manage to get the valve cover all the way off, god can we slap the people that design trucks these days? lets just put the whole cab over the engine and call it done irritating us.

 

Yeppers. There are a few things that need tweeking for sure. But at this point I can't complain to much. The truck runs strong and handles like she's on rails and comfortable while doing it. That sucks about losing #1. What did the plug look like? you try try a couple of tricks for possible ring issue to free them up. See if you get excessive preasure through PCV. Just a couple of ideas

 

All that was left of #1 plug.

 

you dont have a body lift? That would make a lot more room between the firewall and the engine.

FWIW these trucks are easy to work on. This is what i work on everyday


engine:
http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-20...2-1280x960.jpg

see my thread: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ge...ver-sport.html

 

Nope no body lift, If I did that I'd have to lay down on the motor to reach anything