My husband was driving yesterday (99 F150) and the truck just shut off. When he tried to restart it, the ignition set just spun freely. I grabbed a new ignition set and ran over there. We had a locksmith come out to rekey the new set (security key). Sure enough, the post at the end of the ignition had broken off.

Still, the truck wouldn't start. We had the battery disconnected the entire time to stop battery drain. With the proper key, the theft light blinks and goes off (normal) and we tested it with a chipless door key and the theft light stays on (again normal). So it appears that the ignition is working fine now. It turns over just fine, but won't start.

Any thoughts on why it wouldn't start? We ended up leaving it and are having it towed this morning. The truck has been acting completely normal, is mechanically very sound. What are the odds that something broke at the same time the ignition broke?

Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated!

 

Could be the fuel pump, you should be able to hear it come on a few seconds when you turn the key to the (ON), not (Start) position.

 

The switch problem may have tripped a breaker. Possibly something with the fuel pump. May need to be reset. I'm just guessing, hopefully someone with some experience with it will chime in. Do you have a manual? You might check that, if you do.

 

Strange problem huh, Bluejay is on the right track IMO. You most likley need to reset the inertia switch. Works like a breaker in a fuse box, except this cuts fuel to the engine.

The reset switch is located behind the passenger side kick-panel, pull the panel,-can't miss it. You just reset/ same way you would a GFCI sort of, -more so like a regular breaker I guess.

BTW- you can't crank these engines continuously for more than 5 seconds. This will shut down the injectors.

If by chance the switch reset doesn't work. There's an inter tube like stem (called the schrader valve) on the chrome fuel rail by #3 cylinder just above the Orange fuel injector. Wrap a pretty thick/absorbent rag around the valve and push the inner stem in with your finger nail or something better (small screw driver) and release any pressure that hasn't bled off.

To much pressure and the injector's won't open.

If the vehicle has sat for awhile, then the pressure will most likley have bled off.

But try the reset first~ BEFORE attempting to start. You may forfeit the chance if the regulator can't govern pressure (air) @ the fuel rail and/or you over crank the engine.

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Like silver-savage posted - Always listen for the pump when the key is in the run (no start) position. If you don't here the pump charge the lines before start (pump is inside the fuel tank, so roll the window down to listen for it) then it could be the pump itself or the fuel relay.

You might have an actual fuel pump fuse as I have. I have both relay and fuse in my 98, but they changed the fuse blocks around so much, I'm not sure the 99 has a dedicated fuse. So you better check out your book.

Check the location of all fuel related fuses under the hood and also under the dash. There should be a little book in the Glove compartment that looks like this. -



This book ^^^ gives you the fuse/relay layout.

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If none of the above works, reboot the PCM by disconnecting the battery again. These computers get buggy at times.


Post back what you find.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks, Jbrew. Knew you could shed some light.

 

No problem

 

I checked the fuel shut off valve thing in the passenger side kick...its set so should be fine.

Had the truck towed (it was on a highway off ramp, ugh) so now I can work on it better.

Here's my plan......

Check the fuel pump fuse.

Turn the key on and see if the fuel pump runs.

If it does, and no dice, I'm going to see if its getting fuel to the rail. If not, I'm thinking its the filter.

If it IS getting fuel to the rail, then I'm back to square one.

So far, that's my plan. (My God, these things are WAY more complicated than my old 63 Galaxie, lol!!)

Any other suggestions are still appreciated!

 

Yea, but check all your fuses, specially under the hood. One thing can lead to another.

The fuse relays are swappable on the 98 model, not sure on the 99. You have to read the top of the relay in order to determine. A sign of bad relay is that it will be hot to the touch.

If you don't have the Owners Manual for fuse layout - You can download @

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=17

When they just up and die on yuh, something went out or stopped working all together.

 

You never specified which engine you have, but I do have a theory. In my 4.2L V6 the camshaft position sensor was disconnected and caused the fuel pump to stop and so driving down the road the engine stopped and I rolled to a halt right in front of a Ford dealership. I saved myself on towing expenses by just pushing it into the lot but it did cost $200 for a new camshaft sensor. Just a possibility...

 

Raptor's definitely right ^^^

Camshaft Sensor ( drivers side front timing cover) or Crank sensor (down by the crank /passenger side/by oil pan seam) CAN cause this problem.

Slipped my mind :o

Are your gauges sweeping by chance?

 

wewt!! I'm helpful!

 

scanning for DTCs should be the first step...do that and report back

 

Did what I could on Saturday. Replaced the fuel pump relay (just on the off chance). But no dice. Fuel pump isn't running at all. I'm thinking its still in "theft" mode. So I had it towed to the dealership, though I won't know anything until today.

I just find it hard to believe that the ignition lockset broke, and something else broke at the same time. So I'm thinking its all going back to the ignition. I'm thinking I need a computer reset.

 

Did you try rebooting your self again? Sometimes once doesn't do it. Shoot I've even pulled the PCM fuse to make sure the KeepAliveMemory (KAM) resets.

But yea, those PassiveAntiTheftSystems (PATS) can be a PITA. That's why I asked if you had any gauge sweeping going on. There's a KeyOnEngineOff (KOEO) Digital Odometer procedure to reset PATS in the engines forum from FordTech1, but it's in the dealer's hands now, I'm sure that's what they will check first. I was under the impression from your first post, the PATS was not the problem and you didn't answer the guage sweep soooo. But we'll see.

Let use know how it turns out.

Good Luck

 

Turned out to be the PATS transceiver. So fixing it and getting a second key (we only have one) is going to be $340. Not great, but not too bad.

Thank you all for your help!!!! I just KNEW it couldn't be the fuel pump failing at the same time as the ignition. I don't have great luck, but that would be pretty bad by even MY standards. lol

Oh, and since hubby will be buying a new vehicle anyway in the very new future, this truck will become my fishing/camping/hunting/whatever truck so I'm SURE I'll be on here quite a bit. This seems like a great place to learn!!!!

Thank you all again!!!