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  #1  
Old 09-20-2000, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Rochester, NY , USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 56
Post Fuel Line Disconnect Tool (where to buy)

I want to change the fuel filter on my '97 F150 and need a fuel line disconnect tool. My local Ford Parts dealer told me it would take 1-2 months to get one.

Is there a place on the web I can order one from and get it reasonably fast (and cheap)? Ford part number is T90T-9550-S. Thanks for any help.

Mark DeRoller
Rochester, NY

---
'97 F150 XLT 4x4 SC SS 4.6L Auto 3.55 K&N Dark Toreador Red Metallic Ext./Gray Int.
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  #2  
Old 09-20-2000, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 71
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mderoller
I picked up one at the local Auto parts store where I go the filter for a couple of bucks. When you see it you will know why it is so cheap. It was in one of those "red packs" that all parts stores seem to have now. Just go in and ask. By the way, eventhough it is cheap it works great I have changed 4 filters so far and have had no problems. In my opinion, I think the dealer just wanted to do the work
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  #3  
Old 09-20-2000, 05:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 355
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Get the metal tool, looks like an "X", has a different tubing size on each end.
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  #4  
Old 09-20-2000, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Runaway Bay, TX, USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F-250 ld
Posts: 84
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The tool similar to the one Granpa was talking about, I bought at a Carquest auto parts store--it was a little expensive at $17.
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  #5  
Old 09-20-2000, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Pa
Posts: 411
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Got mine at AutoZone-less than $5.
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  #6  
Old 09-20-2000, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Torrance, CA. USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 107
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You should be able to find the tool at any parts store. I have the complete set to do fuel, transmission, oil cooler lines and A/C lines as well. Both the plastic and metal tools work well. Just don't attempt to do it without the tool.

------------------
F150IslandBoy
1997 F150 Lariat
SuperCab, Toreador Red w/ Gold, Styleside, 4.6L, A/T, A/C, 3.55 3800 Limited Slip, Class 3 Tow Package, Leather Captain Seats, Sliding Rear Window.
Modifications:
Airaid FIPK, Flowmaster Delta Flow 50 Series, Bugflector II, Viper 500ESP Alarm, Pendaliner Bedliner, Cobra Trapshooter 3 Radar Detector, CARR Tubular Nerf Bars, NFA 1400 Compact 55W=>85W Halogen O.E. Lights, Durango 255/70R16, Chrome eyelet tie downs, Smoked front lic. plate cover.


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  #7  
Old 09-20-2000, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MS
Posts: 68
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I picked up a pack of 6 different sizes for about $9 just last week. They dont look like much, but they do the job. Changed my both my f150 and explorer and they still look like new...
I was surprised also that the dealership didn't sell the tool??? They just want the labor....shame on them.

------------------
1999 F-150 XLT SuperCab 2WD, Gold/Tan, 5.4L
MFG date 5/99
Mobile1/802s


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  #8  
Old 09-29-2000, 09:31 AM
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Rochester, NY , USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 56
Question

Thanks for the advice.

I still have a question. I bought a set of plastic ones that are different sizes (fit AC lines too). Tried taking the lines off the fuel filter last night and they won't budge. Not sure if I'm using the right size disconnect tool. What size is the correct one? The ones I got are cheap plastic. I'm worried about torqueing the lines and filter too much and breaking the filter. That would suck! Thanks for any help.

By the way, I did relieve the fuel pressure and disconnected the batter cable ;-)

Mark D.
Rochester, NY

---
'97 F150 XLT 4x4 SC SS 4.6L Auto 3.55 K&N Dark Toreador Red Metallic Ext./Gray Int.
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  #9  
Old 09-29-2000, 06:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 355
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The plastic tool didn't fit well for me on many trucks, I took it back and exchanged it for the metal one. The metal tool (KD, I think), worked well. First rotate the fuel line back and forth a bit to break the set of the O-ring, then close the metal tool around the filter tube. Use the end that will go inside the end of the fuel line, as it has to release those metal fingers hidden inside there. Hold fuel line with one hand, while pressing in with the tool with the other. The tool will slide inside and stop, then you can pull the fuel line off the filter tubing, while continuing to push in with the tool.

The fuel line's internal metal fingers grip a bump on the filter tubing, so if you don't insert the tool far enough or hard enough, the fingers won't release all the way. More likely to damage it by NOT inserting the tool far enough, and just yanking on the fuel line without it being fully released.
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  #10  
Old 10-01-2000, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Niles, MI USA
Posts: 16
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I am getting ready to change my fuel filter for the 1st time. How do you get the filter out of the metal cage after you release the filter lines? It looks like it is in there pretty tight. Thanks for any suggestions.

------------------
97' F150 XLT 4x4
5.4L V8
3.55 gears
Bright red
Off-road pkg.
6-disc cd
Torsion bars adjusted for lift.
Custom rear lift-blocks.
LT275 70 17 Goodyear Wrangler GSA tires.
Edelbrock IAS shocks.
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  #11  
Old 10-01-2000, 11:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Phoenix, AZ usa
Posts: 78
Question

Has anyone installed an aftermarket filter in line prior to this one. Sounds like it is a lot of work and there are better aftermarket filters out there?
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2000, 08:40 AM
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Rochester, NY , USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 56
Angry

KABF150,

Have you checked out this technical article: http://www.f150online.com/tech/fuelfilter.html

The way he removed the filter was by pushing it up and rolling the bottom out. I tried it and it works, though I snapped it back in since I can't get the fuel lines off yet. Going to the parts store today to look for a better disconnect too. Gonna try again tonight. Good luck.

Mark D.
Rochester, NY



------------------
'97 F150 XLT Born 8/96
SC SB SS 4x4 4.6L Auto, 3.55, 4 wheel ABS, elec. 4WD shift, OEM fog lights, factory in-dash CD, Boston Acoustic speakers, 16in polished alum. wheels, 265/75/R16 GoodYear Wrangler RT/S, K&N Filter, bed mat, Dark Torreador Red Metallic exterior/gray interior, 60K Miles

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  #13  
Old 10-04-2000, 09:48 AM
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Rochester, NY , USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 56
Smile

Finally got the lines off and replaced the filter. Did it during lunch yesterday, my 3rd attempt. Had to remove the xfer case skid plate to get to both fuel lines. And to remove the filter I had to take the whole fuel filter holder off. What a pain in the butt. At least it's done and I didn't have to pay someone to do it.

If you ever do this make sure you have plenty of rags or paper towel handy for the gas that's gonna spill out. Also make sure you relieve the pressure first and disconnect the negative battery terminal. I relieved the pressure by disconnecting the fuel cutoff switch (inside the passenger kick panel) which shuts of the fuel pump, and running the engine till it stops.

Mark D.
Rochester, NY



------------------
'97 F150 XLT Born 8/96
SC SB SS 4x4 4.6L Auto, 3.55, 4 wheel ABS, elec. 4WD shift, OEM fog lights, factory in-dash CD, Boston Acoustic speakers, 16in polished alum. wheels, 265/75/R16 GoodYear Wrangler RT/S, K&N Filter, bed mat, Dark Torreador Red Metallic exterior/gray interior, 60K Miles

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  #14  
Old 10-11-2000, 11:25 AM
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Carolina, Puerto Rico, USA
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150
Posts: 1,177
Post

Got mine from PepBoys.

------------------
1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift and Lift Lips.

See photos at http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

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Old 10-11-2000, 11:25 AM


 
 
 
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