F150 with Grand Marquis Motor
#1
F150 with Grand Marquis Motor
I just completed the installation of a 92 Grand Marquis 4.6, in a 97 F150. Here is what I used.
From the GM I used the block, heads, valve covers, flex plate, oil pan, crank pulley, P/S pump, alternator, water pump, tension idler, plug wires and plugs.
From the F150 I used the eng mounts, intake, intake gasket, exh manifolds, wiring harness, A/C compressor, and fan.
Under the intake on the GM motor, I had to drill and tap the block (in the valley) for the knock sensor (?), and also drill and tap the LH head for a temp sender. These two locations on the F150 motor were not "thru" holes in the block. The holes "bottomed" out. On the GM motor the holes I drilled were "thru" holes. The F150 block and head were cast different for the senders. This action was done to use all the the senders and sensors from the F150, so all of the wire harness connectors could be used.
The motor started right up and runs fine. Truck does not know it has a GM motor. I had to get a slightly longer serpentine belt because the F150 A/C pulley is bigger in dia from the GM. I didn't want to evac the a/c system.
Hope this info helps.
From the GM I used the block, heads, valve covers, flex plate, oil pan, crank pulley, P/S pump, alternator, water pump, tension idler, plug wires and plugs.
From the F150 I used the eng mounts, intake, intake gasket, exh manifolds, wiring harness, A/C compressor, and fan.
Under the intake on the GM motor, I had to drill and tap the block (in the valley) for the knock sensor (?), and also drill and tap the LH head for a temp sender. These two locations on the F150 motor were not "thru" holes in the block. The holes "bottomed" out. On the GM motor the holes I drilled were "thru" holes. The F150 block and head were cast different for the senders. This action was done to use all the the senders and sensors from the F150, so all of the wire harness connectors could be used.
The motor started right up and runs fine. Truck does not know it has a GM motor. I had to get a slightly longer serpentine belt because the F150 A/C pulley is bigger in dia from the GM. I didn't want to evac the a/c system.
Hope this info helps.
#5
Sorry, no pictures. The only difference under the hood, is the oil fill is on the left side, and a shorter dipstick. It's sure tight to install these motors in the F150. On the right side, I installed all of the motor mount on the eng. Just had to put the 2 nuts on where it mounts to the cross member after installation. The left side, I left the bottom part of the eng mount on the cross member and just slid the mount that bolts to the eng, back behind the dipstick, without bolting it to the block. When it is in place, you can reach up through the wheel well and attach the bolts. Wheel off.
I do not remove the intake during removal or installation. Only the top part of the intake.
I have done 2 eng swaps in the last 3 weeks. This truck which is 2WD, and a 99 with 5.4 and 4X4. That was a "BITCH". No room to work under the truck. Trans to eng bolts was tough.
So car engines will work. Just haven't done a late model eng. I have one more swap to do. A 95 T-bird 4.6 in a 2000 F150, 2WD.
I do not remove the intake during removal or installation. Only the top part of the intake.
I have done 2 eng swaps in the last 3 weeks. This truck which is 2WD, and a 99 with 5.4 and 4X4. That was a "BITCH". No room to work under the truck. Trans to eng bolts was tough.
So car engines will work. Just haven't done a late model eng. I have one more swap to do. A 95 T-bird 4.6 in a 2000 F150, 2WD.
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I grew up with Point condensers and all that and I would never go back. When I restored my Mach I the first thing to go in the trash was the old point distributor. Used to be you would have to adjust that thing constantly. And modern engines last twice as long. When I was young a car with 100 thousand miles was considered worn out. Today a car with 100k on it is barely broke in.