Injector melted piston??? 2006 5.4 3V
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Again perform a compression and leakdown test to eliminate a base engine problem. Also use a stethescope to pinpoint the exact area of the noise. You may have a collapsed lash adjuster or bent valve stem. If the noise is directly under the cam cover remove the cam cover and inspect the finger followers for excessive play. If one is loose the lash adjuster is collapsed either from lack of oil pressure caused by debris plugging the passage or just a mechanicly defective lash adjuster. The piston failure looks like micro welding caused by detonation (lean condition). I haven't read all the posts but is the noise in the same area/cyl that the damaged piston was in? Its hard to believe that a cyl head "freshen" would repair any damage done to the cyl head caused from the pieces of piston bouncing around in the chamber. How did the valve seats look in that cyl?
One other thing. When a piston starts breaking up like that one the debris will get pulled into the intake manifold and can end up in any of the other cylinders. Those pieces can also lay in the intake manifold and get pulled back into any cyl at anytime. They are an accident waiting to happen. If your intake manifold was not completely cleaned out a piece of that piston could very well have migrated into a cyl and is lodged in an intake valve holding it partially open. I have seen this happen hundreds of times. That is why I keep saying perform a compression and or a leakdown test.
One other thing. When a piston starts breaking up like that one the debris will get pulled into the intake manifold and can end up in any of the other cylinders. Those pieces can also lay in the intake manifold and get pulled back into any cyl at anytime. They are an accident waiting to happen. If your intake manifold was not completely cleaned out a piece of that piston could very well have migrated into a cyl and is lodged in an intake valve holding it partially open. I have seen this happen hundreds of times. That is why I keep saying perform a compression and or a leakdown test.
Last edited by DYNOTECH; 01-18-2012 at 11:26 AM.
#18
You know I could not find the reason for the piston failure right now I'm thinking the injector was clogged and couldn't open completely causing a lean condition in that cylinder which in turn melted the piston with the higher combustion chamber temps. I'm hunting down a set of new motorcraft injectors but I want to get a good deal on them because we are already exceeding our budget on this POS does anyone know the part number for the good ones?
and as far as the valvetrain goes I'm strongly in favor of replacing the lash adjusters but the rockers all checked out good when I took the head apart, I doubt I will be replacing those.
BTW KEVHEAD I will post pics as soon as they arrive and I install them I can't wait to see if that's going to be the end of my problems
and as far as the valvetrain goes I'm strongly in favor of replacing the lash adjusters but the rockers all checked out good when I took the head apart, I doubt I will be replacing those.
BTW KEVHEAD I will post pics as soon as they arrive and I install them I can't wait to see if that's going to be the end of my problems
#19
Again perform a compression and leakdown test to eliminate a base engine problem. Also use a stethescope to pinpoint the exact area of the noise. You may have a collapsed lash adjuster or bent valve stem. If the noise is directly under the cam cover remove the cam cover and inspect the finger followers for excessive play. If one is loose the lash adjuster is collapsed either from lack of oil pressure caused by debris plugging the passage or just a mechanicly defective lash adjuster. The piston failure looks like micro welding caused by detonation (lean condition). I haven't read all the posts but is the noise in the same area/cyl that the damaged piston was in? Its hard to believe that a cyl head "freshen" would repair any damage done to the cyl head caused from the pieces of piston bouncing around in the chamber. How did the valve seats look in that cyl?
One other thing. When a piston starts breaking up like that one the debris will get pulled into the intake manifold and can end up in any of the other cylinders. Those pieces can also lay in the intake manifold and get pulled back into any cyl at anytime. They are an accident waiting to happen. If your intake manifold was not completely cleaned out a piece of that piston could very well have migrated into a cyl and is lodged in an intake valve holding it partially open. I have seen this happen hundreds of times. That is why I keep saying perform a compression and or a leakdown test.
One other thing. When a piston starts breaking up like that one the debris will get pulled into the intake manifold and can end up in any of the other cylinders. Those pieces can also lay in the intake manifold and get pulled back into any cyl at anytime. They are an accident waiting to happen. If your intake manifold was not completely cleaned out a piece of that piston could very well have migrated into a cyl and is lodged in an intake valve holding it partially open. I have seen this happen hundreds of times. That is why I keep saying perform a compression and or a leakdown test.
#20
I have set if 07 injectors if you are interested. They were from a 07 with just under 36k on them and were removed for super charger install.
Dyno has a good point about checking compression. The timing code is most likely causing the P0175. I know you have checked your timing but that code is indicating something is up with it. It could be the phasers or solenoid I guess which you are going to replace.
Dyno has a good point about checking compression. The timing code is most likely causing the P0175. I know you have checked your timing but that code is indicating something is up with it. It could be the phasers or solenoid I guess which you are going to replace.
#21
I have set if 07 injectors if you are interested. They were from a 07 with just under 36k on them and were removed for super charger install.
Dyno has a good point about checking compression. The timing code is most likely causing the P0175. I know you have checked your timing but that code is indicating something is up with it. It could be the phasers or solenoid I guess which you are going to replace.
Dyno has a good point about checking compression. The timing code is most likely causing the P0175. I know you have checked your timing but that code is indicating something is up with it. It could be the phasers or solenoid I guess which you are going to replace.
#22
ok guys sorry I hadn't got on here with an update. well the phasers were on backorder but they finally arrived about three days ago and while I was changing them out I managed to drop my camera and it broke I did manage to take one photo though before I dropped it .......
it was a pain in the *** to pull the valve covers off and the tool I made to jam in the tensioner was useless I grabbed a 24 inch 3/8 drive ratchet extension and stuck it behind the phaser while holding pressure on the face of the guide (obviously tensioner side) and then bungee corded it to the fender. I was very careful while pulling it out so I'm sure I didn't skip a tooth.
The whole thing went down pretty smoothly and once I put all the stuff together I cranked her up and I was amazed! it was a smooth idle and no other problems except for the clicking noise which after driving a while looks as if it got quieter. I know I should have changed the lash adjusters while I was in there but my dad didn't have the money to throw in it. So far it has been driven for one day (about 100 miles) and it hasn't given me anything to worry about.
it was a pain in the *** to pull the valve covers off and the tool I made to jam in the tensioner was useless I grabbed a 24 inch 3/8 drive ratchet extension and stuck it behind the phaser while holding pressure on the face of the guide (obviously tensioner side) and then bungee corded it to the fender. I was very careful while pulling it out so I'm sure I didn't skip a tooth.
The whole thing went down pretty smoothly and once I put all the stuff together I cranked her up and I was amazed! it was a smooth idle and no other problems except for the clicking noise which after driving a while looks as if it got quieter. I know I should have changed the lash adjusters while I was in there but my dad didn't have the money to throw in it. So far it has been driven for one day (about 100 miles) and it hasn't given me anything to worry about.
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