Go Back   F150online Forums > Powertrain & Mechanical > V8 Engines
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos Vin Decoder FAQ Members Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Vendor DirectoryGarage

Welcome to F150Online Forums!
Welcome to F150Online.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the F150Online Forums community today!





Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-03-2010, 10:44 PM
Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Vehicle: 2003 ford F-150 FX4
Posts: 20
2003 5.4 spark plug change

Hello all i am going to change the spark plugs in my truck (2003 5.4). What do i need to know? any help is great!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-05-2010, 03:39 AM
Senior Member
2001 Ford F-150
My Garage
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: missing Texas...
Vehicle: 200? FORD
Posts: 12,880
Send a message via Yahoo to tarajerame
patients, a torque wrench, a swivel socket and several different extensions
__________________

-LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE http://www.f150online.com/forums/par...-new-post.html
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:23 AM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: So. Cal.
Vehicle: 2004 Ford F-150
Posts: 2,068
And that you should use Motorcraft plugs, not plugs from "Joe's Delicatesan & Spark Plugs". And torque 'em to 28 ft lbs, NOT the 14 that Ford originally specified. Blow the holes out with compressed air BEFORE you remove the plugs! Take your time, it's not a big deal as long as you have the right attitude (that way with most things I think).
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-05-2010, 09:53 AM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PC, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150 7700
Posts: 631
also no anti seize
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-05-2010, 10:36 AM
Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Naperville, IL
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 67
Now that the weather is getting warmer, I need to do the same on my truck. Isn't there a write up somewhere that gives all the tips and tricks?
__________________
2011 FX4 - Coyote powered
'98 Mustang GT

www.modularmisfits.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-05-2010, 10:56 AM
Senior Member
2000 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150 2WD
Posts: 471
Be prepared for an afternoon-long event. You will have to remove things to get them out of your way. This may include fuel rails, PCV vacuum tubing, EGR sensors, EGR valves, power steering reservoir mount, and more. Just take your time and mark everything as you go along so you don't forget what goes where. If you do remove fuel rails, remember to spray the O-rings with WD40 or other oil-based lube before reinserting the injectors into the rail or engine.

It's not a difficult job, but it does take a while and access is tight in some areas, especially near the firewall, so swivels and extensions will be important, as tarajerame said. A proper "spark plug" socket will also help. I second everything the guys before me said, too. Tighten to 28 lb-ft of torque and no anti-sieze. Make sure to get some dielectric grease for the COP boots. In fact, you may want to look on eBay for a full set of COPs for under $100 (try Global Automotive or Uneek Supply). Depending on your mileage, weather and driving habits it couldn't hurt.

If you want to upgrade the spark, go all the way with Denso Iridium (IT16) plugs; otherwise get Motorcraft plugs, as code58 said. And I've heard using fuel line hose to begin threading the new plugs will help prevent cross-threading, though I've never had a problem with this. I just start it with the extension on the spark plug socket, then attach the wrench after it's started. Same effect.

You'll probably find even more tips or a whole thread if you search the forum. Take your time the first time and when you're done you'll be happy you've done it yourself, know it was done right, and saved $300+.
__________________
Jeff

2000 F150 XLT 5.4L 2WD
SuperCab Sport w/ Flareside

See my Garage for mods & additional info
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-05-2010, 11:23 AM
Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Naperville, IL
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 67
Researching this further...I'm getting conflicting info for the torque value and the use of anti-seize. You guys are saying no to anti seize and use 28ft lbs for the torque?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:58 PM
Senior Member
2000 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150 2WD
Posts: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by stein78 View Post
Researching this further...I'm getting conflicting info for the torque value and the use of anti-seize. You guys are saying no to anti seize and use 28ft lbs for the torque?
28 lb-ft torque and no anti-seize is correct. The book says something different, but the book is why people were getting plug blow-outs.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-05-2010, 01:20 PM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Beaverton Or.
Vehicle: 1999 Ford F150
Posts: 3,199
Quote:
Originally Posted by stein78 View Post
Researching this further...I'm getting conflicting info for the torque value and the use of anti-seize. You guys are saying no to anti seize and use 28ft lbs for the torque?
Don't get confused with the newer 3v 5.4 specs

Nickle plated motorcraft plugs, believe they are sp-479
Torqued to 28ft/lbs DRY no anti seize. Gapped to .54

A lot of other F150 sites still use the conflicting manual/ford specs on the plugs, which had issues with blowing out. I would recommend you use the specs given since they have been proven over and over to be the way to torque them without any further issues with them coming lose.

Last edited by Toyz; 05-05-2010 at 01:35 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-05-2010, 02:05 PM
Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Naperville, IL
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 67
Sounds good to me guys, thanks!
__________________
2011 FX4 - Coyote powered
'98 Mustang GT

www.modularmisfits.com
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-05-2010, 02:31 PM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 9,141
Hello.

No one remembered to include this really nice How-To?

==> http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

Sheesh!


MGD v5.0
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookie
Arguing about being a better Millennial is like saying you're a cleaner turd. Any way you look at it, it's still crap.


- Boris "Bubba" Fekchenko
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-05-2010, 03:12 PM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Alabama
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 576
I've used the instructions in the link above with success with my '03 5.4.

I do suggest to use anti-sieze on the threads when you install your new plugs. Just be careful not to get any on the end. Use Motorcraft platinum plugs and you shouldn't have to worry with the gap. I also don't get worried about hitting the exact torque specs. Snug 'em up good and you'll be fine.

I'd highly suggest that you start with the plugs against the firewall(both sides). You'll find out pretty quick if you've got the tools to do the work. If you can get those plugs out, the others should give you no problems.

Expect to take 2 to 3 hours, taking your time and being careful.

Best of luck.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-05-2010, 09:11 PM
Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Beaverton Or.
Vehicle: 1999 Ford F150
Posts: 3,199
To each his own.
I prefer to use the method proven not to spit them out or damage the heads. With the recommended torque, which if you ask me... on an aluminum head with only what 3? threads... torque would be crucial. I just bought 8 motorcrafts and out of the box they ranged between 48-50 for gap. Close if you ask me, but it takes a $1 gap tool and 30 seconds to gap them all correctly. The last time I thought I snugged them up good by hand, only to later put the torque wrench on them and find out they were over tightened.
Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2010, 09:11 PM


 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:04 PM.


 
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Contact Us Advertising Privacy Statement Terms of Service Jobs Forum Text Archives
Emails & Contact Details