Triton 4.6 L HELP ME PLEASE-OIL PROBLEM
#1
Triton 4.6 L HELP ME PLEASE-OIL PROBLEM
Hey all,
I would really appreciate some help before I take my truck in to get looked at. Let me explain the problem: Every once in awhile, and I have yet to relate it to any typical activity (however, it seems to do it more after it sits for a few days), when I start my 01 F150 xlt, blue smoke comes out for about 3 seconds then goes away. There is no oil residue in the exhaust, but I'm also losing some oil. Assuming my oil was full, it has lost about a half a quart in 1200 miles since my last oil change. Now, I have heard that this may not be a big deal, but I just don't like it because I bought it 4 months ago with only 47k miles on it. It doesn't smoke when I drive it and it only lasts a few seconds when it does do it. Does anyone have an idea if this is a problem or should I just shrug it off as "normal" ford engines?
Thanks a ton
I would really appreciate some help before I take my truck in to get looked at. Let me explain the problem: Every once in awhile, and I have yet to relate it to any typical activity (however, it seems to do it more after it sits for a few days), when I start my 01 F150 xlt, blue smoke comes out for about 3 seconds then goes away. There is no oil residue in the exhaust, but I'm also losing some oil. Assuming my oil was full, it has lost about a half a quart in 1200 miles since my last oil change. Now, I have heard that this may not be a big deal, but I just don't like it because I bought it 4 months ago with only 47k miles on it. It doesn't smoke when I drive it and it only lasts a few seconds when it does do it. Does anyone have an idea if this is a problem or should I just shrug it off as "normal" ford engines?
Thanks a ton
#2
#6
I would suggest replacing the PCV and making sure the hose is in great shape. If that doesn't cure the problem, I would suggest a 5w-30 non-synthetic high mileage oil. If that doesn't cure the problem you probably have stuck rings. I would recommend running a dose of Auto-Rx thru it. It will clean the ring packs up and recondition the seals. It's among the very few additives I've found that actually works. It is a lanolin ester and is a slow and gentle engine cleaner. Never run a quick flush thru the oil system of any engine other than one you are about to tear down. These quick flushes are solvent based and are viscosity reducers. Usually damage of some kind occurs after using one if these types of cleaners. Auto-Rx is not a cheap date but it works and does no damage. I use it every 75,000 miles on all of my engines as standard maintenance procedure. It can also be used in an automatic transmission before doing a power flush. It will cure lightly leaking seals and clean the sludge and varnish out. It will not cure major leaks of any kind.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
http://www.auto-rx.com/
#7
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#9
Here's my experiance. My truck does the same thing occasionally and has for the last 150,000+ miles. It still does it occasionally at 316,000 miles. I add a quart about every 1,200 miles and have been over the last 150,000+miles. No I'll effects whatsoever, other than lightening my wallet $1.50/quart.
Ford modulars don't leak oil, but it's not uncommon for them to use some. Under warranty Ford won't even look at your truck's oil usage unless it's using a quart every 800 miles. You are not even close to that, and your truck is 6-7 years old. The smoking is most likely the valve seals. It may not be "normal", but it's not uncommon in these engines. Check out Crown Vic's in your area. You'll see some of them give a puff of blue smoke as they pull away after idling at a traffic light. It's the same thing to a higher degree.
I don't know what you paid, but any 01 isn't going to be worth much over $10,000. An engine replacement will cost upwards of $3000 and won't get you anything other than the warm fuzzy feeling that "my truck doesn't use any oil".
Drive it , enjoy it, and check the oil every once in a while.
Ford modulars don't leak oil, but it's not uncommon for them to use some. Under warranty Ford won't even look at your truck's oil usage unless it's using a quart every 800 miles. You are not even close to that, and your truck is 6-7 years old. The smoking is most likely the valve seals. It may not be "normal", but it's not uncommon in these engines. Check out Crown Vic's in your area. You'll see some of them give a puff of blue smoke as they pull away after idling at a traffic light. It's the same thing to a higher degree.
I don't know what you paid, but any 01 isn't going to be worth much over $10,000. An engine replacement will cost upwards of $3000 and won't get you anything other than the warm fuzzy feeling that "my truck doesn't use any oil".
Drive it , enjoy it, and check the oil every once in a while.
#11
Originally Posted by Skyblaster7
I paid 12.5 and thanks for the advice. It's a 4x4 8ft. You think I'll get a lot of years out of it or am I doomed? Should I try selling?
Typically when it's only on start-up (in any engine) this means the valve seals are letting little amounts of oil seep past the seals and get burned off with the start up. It's just the oil that is in the valve covers that hasn't made it's way to the crank case before the shut-down and makes it's way into the chambers via valve seals. When it's smoking as you go down the road, then worry. I change my oil faithfully at 3-4000 miles, and 1/2 way to the change adding oil is usually needed.
Last edited by Forced_Firebird; 11-12-2007 at 09:44 PM.
#12
well, i had an explorer do just that. and yes its your valve seals starting to go. eventually it WILL get worse. not a difficult repair but you do have to remove the heads. taking it to a shop will be pricey, im gonna guess about 2 grand. With a repair like this yes its is better off nipped in the bud BEFORE it gets worse. because eventually your plugs will oil foul from the oil being burned inside the cylinder.
my best advice is if you plan to do this repair, buy a spare set of stock heads (or even aftermarket if you wanna go for performance). if you choose stock take your time and buy parts here and there and rebuild the head like it was brand new. then when you're done just remove the old ones get new head gaskets and bolt the new ones on.
this isnt a major problem you have, but dont fool yourself it will get worse but not like tomorrow, or even 6 months from now. let it go for a year or two and youre asking for a bigger problem.
my best advice is if you plan to do this repair, buy a spare set of stock heads (or even aftermarket if you wanna go for performance). if you choose stock take your time and buy parts here and there and rebuild the head like it was brand new. then when you're done just remove the old ones get new head gaskets and bolt the new ones on.
this isnt a major problem you have, but dont fool yourself it will get worse but not like tomorrow, or even 6 months from now. let it go for a year or two and youre asking for a bigger problem.
Last edited by Pheonixx; 11-12-2007 at 09:44 PM.
#13
Originally Posted by Pheonixx
well, i had an explorer do just that. and yes its your valve seals starting to go. eventually it WILL get worse. not a difficult repair but you do have to remove the heads. taking it to a shop will be pricey, im gonna guess about 2 grand. With a repair like this yes its is better off nipped in the bud BEFORE it gets worse. because eventually your plugs will oil foul from the oil being burned inside the cylinder.
my best advice is if you plan to do this repair, buy a spare set of stock heads (or even aftermarket if you wanna go for performance). if you choose stock take your time and buy parts here and there and rebuild the head like it was brand new. then when you're done just remove the old ones get new head gaskets and bolt the new ones on.
this isnt a major problem you have, but dont fool yourself it will get worse but not like tomorrow, or even 6 months from now. let it go for a year or two and youre asking for a bigger problem.
my best advice is if you plan to do this repair, buy a spare set of stock heads (or even aftermarket if you wanna go for performance). if you choose stock take your time and buy parts here and there and rebuild the head like it was brand new. then when you're done just remove the old ones get new head gaskets and bolt the new ones on.
this isnt a major problem you have, but dont fool yourself it will get worse but not like tomorrow, or even 6 months from now. let it go for a year or two and youre asking for a bigger problem.
Valve seals can be replaced with the heads on the vehicle by using an air fitting the correct size to fit in the sparkplug holes. Then hook it up to a full compressor and remove the springs while the air holds the valves up. Pry old seals off, and install new seals. Replace springs, release air.
There also is another old trick to holding the valves up by using 1/4" rope and feed it into the sparkplug holes until it is full - leaving the end sticking out to remove the rope when finished. Rotate the engine until that cyl is at, or close to, TDC and the rope will hold the valve up. Problem is with the modular motors is the plug holes are vertical, and feeding the rope into the cyl is tough, the air method is better.
In the end, a mechanic will use one of the above mentioned procedures and charge you for a head job.
#14
I have a 98 4.6 with 180k on it, and it uses a quart a month. I have seen a puff or 2 of the smoke now and then, but, nothing I am worried about. I do run lucas oil stabilizer 2x a year. Some motors just do that. Most diesels wouldnt run as long as they do if they didnt use a little oil.
I had an old 301 pontiac that did the same thing and the motor is almost 28 years old, never rebuilt, and runs strong.
Do your regular oil changes and checks and you will be fine.
I had an old 301 pontiac that did the same thing and the motor is almost 28 years old, never rebuilt, and runs strong.
Do your regular oil changes and checks and you will be fine.