Do you have to remove the fuel rail to change COPs on 5.4L? - F150online Forums



Do you have to remove the fuel rail to change COPs on 5.4L?

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  #1  
Old 06-26-2008, 01:01 PM
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Do you have to remove the fuel rail to change COPs on 5.4L?

Does the fuel rail have to be removed to change the coils on a 5.4L 1997? If so, once the lines are disconnected what is the best was to pull the rail off the injectors without bending the rail? Is there a trick to it? Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2008, 01:25 PM
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no man you don't have to pull the fuel rail..
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Old 06-26-2008, 03:25 PM
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dude why did you disconnectt he fuel rails? if you decide to lift off the fuel railto change the cops you can leave the fuel lines in place...

did you remove the 2 mountinig bolt on the intake before you tried to lift it off?
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:01 PM
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No, you don't have to remove it. But removing it is really really really easy. Same goes for reinstalling it.
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:18 PM
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you dont have to but it is so much easier. all you have to do is unbolt the two bolts up top and then lift off they move out the way alittle bit. i was scared to do it but it is easy. just make sure the o rings stay on the fuel injector or you will find out the hard way when you try to install them and the orings are in the rail still it wont go on. just fish then out put them back on the rail if there not split and lube them up with some oil and your good to go.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:14 PM
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No need to pull them off....not worth the trouble in my experience.....just slide them out right under it... plust you don't have to keep up with orings and make sure no debris falls in any of them while your in there working with the rails off the top of the injectors.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:25 PM
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Screw that, It's just 4 8mm bolts / lay some rags down and pull the rail up - flip it right on top of the manifold. You can do it with it loose on the drivers side, but when you install new COP's , you have to make sure that the plug boots are centered on the plugs before you twist back and forth to get them seated on the right. That can be a b^tch with the rail in the way on most of them and it's so simple to relocate temporarily.

Also, it's easier to strip a coil bolt with the rail in the way. When there removed - It's allot easier sealing the plug/boot chambers off with di-electric grease or #8 - #10 O-Rings + Grease (however you do it).

But the answer to your question is - No, you don't have to remove it.

Last edited by jbrew; 06-26-2008 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:33 PM
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are you sure jbrew? with all of these threads questioning you expertise...i just dont know.

sorry had to be a wise-a$$, sorry bout the useless post. hopefully youll still help me out when i need it.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilightcall View Post
Does the fuel rail have to be removed to change the coils on a 5.4L 1997?
No.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 600Polaris View Post
are you sure jbrew? with all of these threads questioning you expertise...i just dont know.

sorry had to be a wise-a$$, sorry bout the useless post. hopefully youll still help me out when i need it.
- Yea, I know - Well, it's easier for me or the way I choose to do it - I hate sh^t in the way.

I've done it before without the rail being removed on a 5.4L. The tricky one is #6 or #7 (can't recall, it's one of those two.) - It's a real PITA getting on the coil bolt w/socket. I've heard it's easier on the 4.6L.

I screwed up the boot when installing a new coil on #4 once - I couldn't get enough leverage or the right angle when trying to twist it on the plug - The boot kinked/folded. I didn't realize it until it missed when I fired it up - Had to dig into again that time

It's personal preference really - I like it easy..

Last edited by jbrew; 06-26-2008 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:56 PM
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Nope not necessary. Changed all my COPS without removing fuel rails.
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Old 06-27-2008, 11:32 AM
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I just greased mine up really good with the Dielec. grease and they went right on. Plus I had the motoblue connectors which are solid metal of some type, they don't bend, they go on positive and snap in very nicely. You know when they are connected. I highly recommend them! Very nice compared to that stock spring crap!
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Old 06-27-2008, 12:40 PM
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Guys, how do ya'll keep from killing your back changing out these and plugs? 'Specially the back ones. Standing on the front wheel, leaning in and over, having to use reading glasses(for us older guys ) gives my old back and knees some serious pain.

Techniques? Always looking for a better way.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jward View Post
Guys, how do ya'll keep from killing your back changing out these and plugs? 'Specially the back ones. Standing on the front wheel, leaning in and over, having to use reading glasses(for us older guys ) gives my old back and knees some serious pain.

Techniques? Always looking for a better way.

Thanks
I stood on a milk crate and threw a nice thick blanket (folded over a few times) over the front grill and rad and leaned on it for support. I did all 8 working from the front this way.
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Old 06-27-2008, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jward View Post
Guys, how do ya'll keep from killing your back changing out these and plugs? 'Specially the back ones. Standing on the front wheel, leaning in and over, having to use reading glasses(for us older guys ) gives my old back and knees some serious pain.

Techniques? Always looking for a better way.

Thanks






OR - You could just jack up the rear real fast , that works for me -



BTW - I borrowed grizzstangs milk crate, but the damn thing would slide out every freakin time I leaned over the motor!!! Don't you hate that!! ????? - Pull the wheel and drop her down on blocks - If you have a compressor, it's not a big deal.

Last edited by jbrew; 06-27-2008 at 04:06 PM.
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