I had to remove the oil dipstick tube to put on some headers. After fighting with it for an hour or so it finally happened... I broke the dang thing off. Whatever was pressed into the block is still in there and in there good.

Thought about dropping the oil pan and pushing it out from inside. It took just a quick look at what it would take to remove the oil pan to decide I dont want to mess with that.

I tried tapping it and putting in a bolt to pull on... threads folded and the bolt popped right out. Tried it again and added a lot of heat... same thing happened.

I probably could drill it out, but I'm concerned about all that crap falling into the pan. Plus I have the header on now and have no desire to take that SOB off again.

Anybody have any other ideas? I'm half tempted to buy some cheap aftermarket tube and try to press it into the opening as it is...

 

Good ole vise grips? A big easy out? lol

 

Try a hook pick??
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...?keyword=picks

 

How about this, the hook pick gave me the idea. Drive the tip of an awl between the hole in the block and the tube until the tube bends into the the center - gently. A very narrow and sharp awl or nail set might get it started. Once there is enough space, use a pair of needle nose to twist and pull....

 

the key is: DONT GIVE UP! i was in the same boat on xmas eve when i put my dynatech longtubes in. it literally took a half an hour of twisting, pulling, and swearing to get the bastard out of the pan... you got the right idea, just get some vice grips, needle nose pliers, an awl, and keep at it. i swear, it seemed like it took ten minutes to get the first 1/4'' out, but just keep at it. by the time you get 3/4'' out, you can probably yank the bastard out with vicegrips. don't go aftermarket on the replacement, the oem part is only like $19. check out bobutterfordparts.com and give them a call

 

Oops... I gave up.

I have the header on now, and I don't care what happens I'm not taking that thing off again. I found an aftermarket tube (braided stainless, so it's flexible enough to run through the header). The end of this tube seems to be small enough for me to wedge it into the remaining piece of old tube that is stuck.

Do I have to worry about oil pressure in this spot? I'm thinking no, but do not know for certain. If I can get it wedged in there good, I'm not worried about it shaking loose. But, if there is oil pressure I'll probably have a leak.

 

Mannn, lol - I wouldn't give up on it yet. You have to fix that. Did you try an easy out? It's going to be harder now.. You don't want to let that go.. That's scary , honestly, I'd fix it right dude..I replaced my 98's after it rusted in two . What motor do you have? I'm using a fairly new 4six stick right now , but it's to short and I'm getting a 5four stick pretty quick here - if you need a 4six stick I'll have one - I'm in Howell - Lansing is close to me. It's only 4 months old.

Just the the tube , I had to modify the dipper for my application - but the tubes good and you probably have the dipper.

 

Get a drift and push it down an 1/8 inch, Don't push too far or it will fall into the pan. This will loosen it and allow a self tapping screw to pull it back out. A shot or two of PB plaster or any penetrating oil will help it slide.

JMC

 

There's just a rubber O-ring holding it in their - It willl come out . Once you get it to move - Should be able to using one of the methods above.

Good Luck.

 

I had a dip stick tube break off just by it''self about 2" up.
It was a hassle to get out.
I heated it to soften the O ring, then it finally left loose with vice grips by twisting.
Now with nothing left to get hold of, I would heat the hole up good then try to collapse the tube enough to pick it out.
You need the hole plugged because it's part of a sealed crankcase and can be detected by the PCM as excessive air that could set 171/174 codes besides allowing dirt and water to get in the pan area..
If you use some other arrangment, be sure you know how much oil is in the motor and note the dip stick level that results.

 

If you want to mark a universal dip stick, fill the engine with 1 quart less that it takes. Wait for the oil to drain back into the pan then pull the stick and mark this spot. Add 2 more quarts and mark that spot. You now have the hi and lo spots on the stick. Keep the level between the two marks. Don't forget to remove 1 quart of oil before driving.

JMC

 

Well crap... now that a couple of you that I know have messed with headers are getting on me I'm feeling bad about leaving it. Can't really whine and cry about taking the header back off to you guys...

I thought about hitting it with a drift (if that's what you call a piece of metal about the right size), but I'm afraid it'll pop free and drop into the pan. I would guess that is high on the bad side. Maybe I'll thread it again and put another bolt in there to beat on. As long as the bolt head is big enough...

 

It normally won't drop into the pan because there is a lip that holds the O ring from coming out as you put the tube in the hole and the bore is only counter sunk into the block. The tube lip will stop at that point.
Unless you mangle it to much.
Work with the idea of getting it loose in the bore.
Mine was done with the stock iron header in place. The block end of the new tube is about 2 +" long and had to cut about 1" off to get it to to engage behind the header and meet the mounting bolt location at the top.
The new tube end is more than long enough, so 1" isn't missed.
It dosn't do anything to the stick reading to shorten the block end of the tube because it still sets into the hole the full distance to the lip and ring seal in order to match up with the mounting up top..

 

here's what to do after you get the POS piece out of the pan... i highly recommend the oem dipstick tube... in any case line up the tube, and put it in the pan before bending it... then, shove a ratchet extension between the header and the tube where you need it to bend. finally, thread the bolt through the tube bracket and onto the block, and tighten. once bolt is tightened, get extension out. this method will force the tube to bend where you need it most, and will minimize the chance off snapping it. this also saves a bit of time and $ involved with fabricating new brackets, more bolts, nuts, etc.

 

F150online comes through once again!! Because half of my dipstick tube came out with the 'stick, I went to the dealer and ordered a new one. I had read threads on here that said it will be a PITA and since I didn't want to start what I couldn't finish... I waited. Well, today I jumped into it.

Long story short(er)... after a while I was down to only flush with the block. This SOB just wouldn't budge. So, I try heat, easy-outs, caving it in only to have to open it back up.Still, not getting anywhere.I was ready to call it quits for today (this being after 2 hours)... took a break and searched the forums.

minimonster17's words kept me motivated... .. Someone had mentioned a lag bolt which got me thinking. You will notice the very end section of the tube is smaller than where it enters the block. And I had a lag bolt that I screwed right down though the lower section.

Heat, hammer, heat, spray, heat, hammer..... Every time I was gonna say F it for today I thought of those words, don't give up. I labored on. Finally I started to see movement and I knew it was all over. After trying to fish the new one in, I just went and cut the end as previously mentioned. Another 10 minutes and it was done.

Now I don't ever have to worry about it again. So, for future dipstick tubers.... remember these words... Don't Give Up. On a side note, I should mention that I have a 5.4 4wd so I had to unbolt the front drive shaft from the front differential and jack up the driver side of the truck to get enough room to beat the crap out what was left of a PITA of a dipstick tube. ....