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  #1  
Old 06-02-2007, 10:11 PM
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Changing spark plugs on 2001 5.4

I've read most of the posts on changing the spark plugs on a 5.4 and I have read the pros and cons on using anti-seize on the new plugs. Should anti-seized be used and if so what should the plugs be torqued too? Should I stay with OEM plugs or use a aftermarket plug? I have already ordered new coil packs from Global-Automotive and plan to replace both plugs and coils. I have a 2001 Supercrew with 75,000 miles that is starting to "stumble" between 45-55 mph. I kind of worry after reading all of the blown plug posts and hope I don't encounter the same problems. Up until now this has been a trouble free vehicle for me.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2007, 10:27 PM
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Somewhere, Ford once said don't use anti-seize on the threads cause it can make it so the plug doesn't have a good ground. To me, its best to use a good quality swivel plug socket to do these and patience. Also a cold motor.
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2007, 10:30 PM
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With all the posts here about anti-seize,torque, and OEM plugs its up to you. The guys that answer these posts know what they are talking about and most learn from experience. I would say yes to all three questions you have.
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2007, 11:43 PM
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Do change them with the engine stone cold.

Do use Motorcraft plugs.

Don't use anti seize. (lemme splain - my unscientific reasoning for not using anti seize is that I want the plug to seize up in the head a little. Less chance of it backing off and popping out later. I replaced the plugs in my old '97 5.4 and applied anti seize to the threads. 40-50K miles later, #3 blew out. Ever since then I've quit using anti seize, and I've never had another one come out on me. YMMV, of course.)

Don't torque them with a torque wrench. (lemme splain - it's not so much that you shouldn't torque them to spec, it's just that it's about damn near impossible to get a torque wrench on a couple of those plugs with the combination of extensions and swivels you'll need to get down into the plug well. All those extensions can affect your torque reading too, so you may be pissing up a rope trying to torque to spec. I start them and thread 'em down with a piece of 3/8" vacuum hose until they bottom out, then put a socket on them and go about a quarter turn. Done.)
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2007, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quintin
Do change them with the engine stone cold.

Do use Motorcraft plugs.

Don't use anti seize. (lemme splain - my unscientific reasoning for not using anti seize is that I want the plug to seize up in the head a little. Less chance of it backing off and popping out later. I replaced the plugs in my old '97 5.4 and applied anti seize to the threads. 40-50K miles later, #3 blew out. Ever since then I've quit using anti seize, and I've never had another one come out on me. YMMV, of course.)

Don't torque them with a torque wrench. (lemme splain - it's not so much that you shouldn't torque them to spec, it's just that it's about damn near impossible to get a torque wrench on a couple of those plugs with the combination of extensions and swivels you'll need to get down into the plug well. All those extensions can affect your torque reading too, so you may be pissing up a rope trying to torque to spec. I start them and thread 'em down with a piece of 3/8" vacuum hose until they bottom out, then put a socket on them and go about a quarter turn. Done.)


Great post Quintin - I totally agree and I no longer use the anti sieze on my 98 plugs , #3 was loose as well and #4 came loose twice and only in there by a couple threads . Glad I kept up with checking them. I've put on about 5000 miles since I removed the anti-sieze and re-installed and hope that cures the problem. Never used a torque wrench - a quarter turn prolly puts at least about 20 lbs on them anyway.

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  #6  
Old 06-03-2007, 07:45 AM
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I guess i better pull my plugs and get the anti-seize off after hearing this.I don't really want a blowout
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:24 AM
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i agree with the 3/8 hose to get them started. get a much better feel of the threads catching. crossthread those and you are royally screwed.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:29 AM
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Definitly use the rubber hose - It's cool how easy that makes it as well. You can feel the plug thread in and run flush thru the hose.

You can also check to see if there loose with the hose as well..
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Compression Testing Procedure
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:36 PM
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You guys are killing my training with all this common sense and wisdom. I'm a couple of weeks away from changing plugs, gonna leave the anti-seize and torque wrench in the box.
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2007, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torkum
You guys are killing my training with all this common sense and wisdom. I'm a couple of weeks away from changing plugs, gonna leave the anti-seize and torque wrench in the box.
You sure you can stand to leave that torque wrench in the box?

I mean , you wouldn't exactly be living up to your name
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Compression Testing Procedure
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2007, 06:51 AM
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I'll probably tighten the plug with one hand and hold the torque wrench in the other to keep down the DTs.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2007, 07:13 PM
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So if your not using any anti-seize have you encountered any problems later on when you tried to changes the plugs again?

From what has been posted the 1/4 turn method seems to be the method of choice. It seems that i could use a torque wrench and 6 of the plugs. What is the proper torque, 13 ft. Lbs?

The Ford dealer told me today that the OEM plugs have changed and now have more threads on the plugs. Still doesn't change the fact that the head is short on threads. Does this sound correct?
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2007, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torkum
I'll probably tighten the plug with one hand and hold the torque wrench in the other to keep down the DTs.
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2007, 01:13 PM
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I changed my plugs last night and it wasn't as difficult as had been posted on other threads. 2 hours to change which includes my time to put away tools. I personally like to troque any critical part so I troqued as many plugs that I could to 13 ft lbs. I only had one plug (#3) that I had to use more than one extension and a swivel. I also did not need to remove any fuel lines. Replaced the plugs with OEM and I also changed my COP's with replacements from Global-Automotive. Engine runs a lot smoother now.....
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2007, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torkum
I'll probably tighten the plug with one hand and hold the torque wrench in the other to keep down the DTs.
Now that's discipline -

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Compression Testing Procedure
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:58 PM


 
 
 
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