59K on my 2005 5.4L, Change Plugs?
#3
Originally Posted by Buzzz
Should I change the plugs on my 2005 Screw with 59k? If so, which are the best plugs? Thanks.
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Jim
Jim
#4
#5
Originally Posted by Buzzz
How would waiting until 100K help the extraction problem?
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Jim
Jim
#6
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
It won't, but the posters on here that have gone past 30,000 have indicated that that is about the limit. I was thinking you would already have the problem if you were going to , so if it were me, I would wait.
Would it be better to have the dealer do this?
#7
I have the 4.2V6 and use Motorcraft plugs (and wires).I change them out at about 40-60k miles.I'm sure Ford has fixed the "plug blowing heads" problem by now so you don't have that worry.If it will help you sleep better at night,change them.BTW,are the newer 5.4 and 4.6 engines easier to replace the plugs on as opposed to the 97-04 era?
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#8
The problem now is that to many people have wined about there plugs blowing out - Now you can't get the damn things out. Well, you can if you use your head a little . Keep your force centered - straight down - don't grab the tail of the ratchet and refe. We use an Impact to get them out - NOT an air impact , a cordless set on its lower setting . It will gradually brake them loose and equalize the force. I wouldn't go past 60k on a set - never.. But people have.
Still use a piece of 3/8's rubber air hose or something to put the new plugs in and screw them down with the hose - just like the older trucks - if you can't get them to thread in with a hose , better run a chaser down them first - personaly - never had too. I always been able to run them back in with a hose easily..
Still use a piece of 3/8's rubber air hose or something to put the new plugs in and screw them down with the hose - just like the older trucks - if you can't get them to thread in with a hose , better run a chaser down them first - personaly - never had too. I always been able to run them back in with a hose easily..
#9
Originally Posted by jbrew
Still use a piece of 3/8's rubber air hose or something to put the new plugs in and screw them down with the hose.
I put over 100,000 on my first set. I'm almost to 200,000 now, and I think I'm gonna change them a little early this time.
#10
Originally Posted by chester8420
You can buy a special socket that has a piece of rubber hose made into it. They're cheap and they work great.
I put over 100,000 on my first set. I'm almost to 200,000 now, and I think I'm gonna change them a little early this time.
I put over 100,000 on my first set. I'm almost to 200,000 now, and I think I'm gonna change them a little early this time.
Why didn't I know this , Mine just have the rubber incerts - I have to get one of those ..They make a little COP tester now too I heard, it load tests . I can't find one. CarQuest on line has something cheap in that order , but doesn't load test , I wanna find the other.
#11
Originally Posted by Buzzz
I see. Mine as well get 40K more miles before something happens.
Would it be better to have the dealer do this?
Would it be better to have the dealer do this?
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Jim
Jim
#12
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
You might want to do a search on the subject and do some reading. Lots has been said about the subject. My own opinion is that a dealer(the tech doing the job) is not going to care enough about what happens to take the necessary time. He just wants to get the job done in the time the book allows. We are told that the best way is to warm the engine slightly, break the plugs loose, squirt in some penetrating fluid, let it sit for a while. Then work the plug back and forth in the threads, adding fluid. You are trying to get the fluid done on the metal shank so it will loosen up as it comes out. You are trying to keep it from binding, then breaking off. If it breaks and you are unable to retrieve all the peices (and there is a way to do this), then you will have to tow it to the dealer and have the heads removed. My feeling is that the odds of successful extraction is probably better with me doing it than some guy in a hurry at the dealership. That is just my take on it.
#13
Originally Posted by Buzzz
And if the dealer snaps one off, he pays for the repairs?
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Jim
Jim
#14
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
It is my understanding that the answer is no. They hand you a bill for about $1500 if they do one head, about $2400 if they have to remove both. I don't know if anyone has been successful in getting the dealer to eat it. You might be able to have that understanding with the dealer before they start work, but I doubt it. All this is why I suggested doing a search, lots has been written by members and their experiences.
#15
Buying a Cordless Impact isn't that bad + It will break your lugs loose on it's highest setting , it's versitol - Plug changout is something I wouldn't trust the dealer to do , but that's me .
The dealer will eat it if you have a case, I got them to eat a whole motor once , but I had to go threw anger managment classes after.
So , whats the prob , can't you do plugs or something? Theres enough info within this forum that my kid could do it , simply by reading.
The dealer will eat it if you have a case, I got them to eat a whole motor once , but I had to go threw anger managment classes after.
So , whats the prob , can't you do plugs or something? Theres enough info within this forum that my kid could do it , simply by reading.