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  #1  
Old 02-09-2006, 01:14 PM
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EGR tube fitting removal

any body ever succesfully remover the egr fitting from the exhaust manifold? if so then how???? please help
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  #2  
Old 02-09-2006, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstonelb86
any body ever succesfully remover the egr fitting from the exhaust manifold? if so then how???? please help
Remove front left (drivers) tire, use wrench to remove the tube from the exhaust manifold.
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2006, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstonelb86
any body ever succesfully remover the egr fitting from the exhaust manifold? if so then how???? please help
Well.......if yours looks like mine (also a 98) your in trouble.

Mine is soo rusted (along with the manifolds) that I plan to replace the manifolds and tube together.
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2006, 03:56 PM
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I presume you guys have broken EGR tubes huh? Do you guys have problems with heating when its cold and a general loss of power?
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2006, 05:28 PM
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no im replacing the manifold gasket...but i did it with out removing the tube but i did break a bolt that held the manifold to the exhaust pipe.
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2006, 05:35 PM
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Apply gentle heat onto fittings from a blow torch, take care not to come into contact with wireing & fuel lines etc.
Then spray with WD40 after allowing to cool for about 30 seconds.
With a suitable wrench apply pressure to first tighten then loosen off, a little tapping with small hammer will help plus a bit more WD40

Use high temprature anti-seize when you put it back together.
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2006, 09:42 PM
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that is something i will keep in mind the next time i tackle my truck. thanks for the advice.
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2006, 09:08 AM
JMC JMC is offline
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Get a good quality penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster ect... Spray the fittings. If you spray it where the nut slides over the tube it will get to the threads inside the nut too. WD 40 is no where near as effective at loosening seized parts as a good penetrating oil.

JMC
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2006, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMC
Get a good quality penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster ect... Spray the fittings. If you spray it where the nut slides over the tube it will get to the threads inside the nut too. WD 40 is no where near as effective at loosening seized parts as a good penetrating oil.

JMC
That is why I suggested a litte heat as I was not sure what you guys have or call your penatrating oil.
With a little heat even a small drop of Diesel Oil will free off seized parts.
We use it for removing rusted parts on plant & machines and it works well and is always available on site.

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  #10  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:39 PM
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EGR Tube and connector fitting replacement

Adam here with my 2003 F-150 supercab 4x4 sport, 5 speed manual, manual transfer, resonator tip dual exhaust from LMC Truck, otherwise stock


I just finished fixing this problem that has been plagueing me since i bought the truck, and like alot of you have done ive tryed just about every combination of patches and fixes, high temp crap etc etc only to have it fail after a short period of time, finally bit the bullet and got a new tube ($50 on ebay) and tube to mainifold connector fitting (about $18 at local parts store) So trust me when i say, this is a worth wile project, alot of people , myself included are talking about the tube to manifold connector fitting, and believe me mine looked horrible, threads were toasted, flare nut=gone, and as far as a 1" wrench fitting on it, forget about it, it was so rusted that a 7/8 slipped on it, how i got it done: pull the tire off, pull the fender liner out, position wire/hose out of the way and i took a round file and cleaned up where the connector meets the manifold most of the way around as best i could, heated it up a little just with a tiny torch not oxy.act., put wd-40 on it a few times(my pb blaster was all gone) and got on that sucker with a good pipe wrench and boom to my supprise, it broke free like nothing, i kinda braced myself and put pressure on pipe wrench with my foot broke free right away, all new parts went back togather nicely

Last edited by Adam012985; 01-31-2014 at 07:41 PM.
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2014, 09:38 PM
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Man this threads ancient!! Well, I guess I'm getting there as well.

I recall removeing one of my 98 with a pair of task force pliers w/callas protectors. Came right off easy, see -

Click the image to open in full size.



Well, it was a little more difficult than I'm letting on lol. I got it out tho, in pieces.

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Your lucky, back when I did mine 07/08, the dealership didn't have the part; it was discontinued. I tried regular brass fittings (3/4 I belive), but it leaked no matter how I did it.

Yea, there wasn't a Dorman replacement back then as well. So, a user from this site picked one up for me down south from the bone yard. Fit like a glove, no leaks.

Click the image to open in full size.

It's a special adapter which was a must have if you wanted it leak free, -

_________________________________

Now a days you can find them easy online.
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:55 AM
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Do it the right way, yup.



yeah that's a little different than mine i used dorman pn 917-400
and yeah brass fiting probly diffrent thread pitch, plus theres no way it could hold up to the temps this part has to encounter.
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:56 AM
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:56 AM


 
 
 
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