This is long

My truck is this...

1995 F150 XLT 4x4 Automatic 5L 302 Extended Cab 79K Miles

Here is the Picture

http://www.personal.psu.edu/pww115/www/truck.jpg

Problems and Questions:

Rust above rear L&R Wheels, Rust Below Doors

When I accelerate, it hesitates, then picks up, and runs around 2-2.3K but does not really set me back in the seat AT ALL. I've driven other pickups in the late 80s and mid 90s that are comparable in specification to this truck and they are much better in response. It just does not seem like there is any pick-up. The transition from the first gear to the 3-4 gear just doesn't seem firm and confident. It doesn't sputter, it just generally all around seems very sluggish.

Front Right section of truck is making weird suspension-sounding noise, like an old rusty spring compressing and recoiling, that metallic crunk sound when I run over a large bump such as a pot hole or speed bump. Bad ball joint? Shock seems fine, no oil leaks and it levels itself out just fine. Also, I noticed on the tread of the tire, it is wearing on the outside. All other tires are just fine. All have the same pressure give or take a pound or two.

I am also getting around 7-9 MPG City/ 13 Highway. Is this normal? It is only a 302, I was hoping maybe 15 City, 19 Highway.

Also, that darn spark plug on the driver's side, closest to firewall has all sorts of gunk and grime there. I've seen this is other trucks, and that some plugs in that driver side/closest to firewall plug will miss and make it shake like crazy. So far, there is no shaking, but there is more grime there than would please me. Know of any good sprays I could use to rinse that out, or to rinse my engine off all together?

I'd like to know of any sensors, filters, wires and such that I should replace.

I've had the truck since 70K, I've replaced oil twice, replaced air and oil filters twice, replaced all spark plugs with Bosch 4-lead platinum plugs, starter (I went mudding a little and got it stuck and burnt the other one, but these problems I mentioned all existed before the mudding expedition), brakes and one rotor (my front left tire fell off driving home one night and it grinded my rotor down, there were sparks, and how awesome is my luck) and I believe that is it.

I've looked at all of the hoses and wires, everything looks pretty solid and normal. No cracks, nothing disconnected, except for one thing, read below to last parahraph about it. All fuel lines and cablings look great. There is an undercoating below, not much is rusted, there is some, but all looks solid.

I'd like to look into a better intake and doing a dual exhaust (not sure if I will do true dual), and if anyone could lend some DETAILED exhaust suggestions or instructions, send them my way please.

Edit: I'd also like to know of anything that is easy, or reasonable with price that would increase HP and/or MPG. I am open to anything. I have a few things in mind (Supership, Intake, Etc., but I'd like to hear it from you guys. Thanks!)

Edit: Last things, I promise. Today I looked to clean up the MAF Censor with some electronics cleaner, when I noticed that a hose from the neck of the intake tube was disconnected from something. I looked down and there was, below the Oil Fill cap, a spot that the other end of that hose was suppose to plug into. From that exposed opening, there was some evidense that oil leaked out there and collected dust and grime along the engine. I removed the hose, cleaned it, and then reinstalled it back, thus now connecting the hose between the intake tube and just below that Oil Fill cap. Is this for some sort of vacumm, does anyone know what that does? I'd be glad to take a picture if anyone knows what I am talking about. It got dark out and I never did fix that MAF censor. Hah! When I started it up, everything ran fine, nothing really different, so I test drove it for assurance. One thing that has always existed; If I accelerate normally, it goes, much like any car. However, when I put the pedal to the floor, I'd expect it to spin the rear tires a little and set me back until second gear. I understand that being an automatic there is some torque regulation occurring that could prevent that, but there is one thing questionable that occurs: When I do put it to the floor, I hear a knocking, maybe 3-4, and then it picks up. I only hear the knocks if I give it juice, be it just from hitting the gas, or if I am in 3rd or 4th cruising, and I hit the gas to make it go, it always knocks first and then goes. How weak is this? I am thinking I should have saved the 2 grand and purchased the I-6 F-150 I originally was going to buy. Thanks much again.

I appreciate any suggestions and stories!

 

Well, all I can say is you posted a story of a truck that has been abused before you got it and after you got it.
I don't have much to say, that you would like to hear.
Good luck with it.

 

Fuel Mileage seems accurate for that truck.

I had a 95 F-150 4WD RC 302V8 w/ 5-Speed Manual Tranny. 10MPG It was a dog.

I spent a lot of money and tried all sorts of things to pick up the power and fuel economy. Unless you know the part is bad, don't waste your money replacing parts.

 

Bluegrass:

Thanks for the reply.

Wasn't abused before I bought it. One owner and was a lady who used it to pick kids up from school and drive to grocery store.

Of course I put it through one days abuse. The only thing that comes to mind is the Ford Slogan, you know, "Built Ford Tough".

What I am looking for are some suggestions, like cleaning the Mass Airflow Meter, flushing coolants, spark plug wires, ect., but that it what I am doing...waiting for such things to be said.

I'll be frank. I am young, and know a little about these things, but not nearly enough. I wasn't sure if there would be those willing to pass along some advice. I mean, come on, all of these users on the forum, you all must have some advice in concern to my issues.

Again, anything is much appreciated. Take care.

Edit: I am learning that the 1995 year is also an odds-ends year for the F-150 make. From what NAPA tells me, there are two different manufactered vehicles that year for the '95 year F-150. I beleive there are models that differentiate slightly between the months of either March, or May, I forget with "M" beginning month it was. The only way I found this out was through replacing those rotors and pads. I guess the difference between the different trucks is the ABS, amongst other things. Now I am looking at converting from Auto to Manual lockouts. The driverside lockout would grind at higher speeds, then when I slowed down, it would "clunk" as if it were trying to disengadge, but was getting stuck. When I had to replace the rotor, I disassembled that with some help, packed the bearings and lubed it up a little more. So far, it seems to be fixed, and 4x4 works fine. But I just don't feel comfortable with auto. Also, another thing I MUST mention is that my 4x4 system is push button controlled. The standard 4x4 button works, engadges, and illuminates to show that is is on. However with the granny low button below, when I press it, does not engade, light up, just is dead. Anyone hear of this? Thanks again for all of your suggestions.

 

kbldawg:

Thanks for a reply.

Oh boy, this is quite interesting. Have you ever owned a 94 or 96? I wonder why this year is such a dog. I've noticed that if you order parts as well for 95, its kind of odd. Many parts are for, say, a 96-2002, whichever. This is of course, on websites that sell mass quanities of things for popular year models. Of couse if I hop to my NAPA, they can hook me up with something. A dog eh? So what do you mean by dog? Was it tough and lasted long? Have you towed with it or done some good haulin? Thanks!

 

pwykoff,

No, I have never owned a 94 or 96.

Mine appeared to run fine. What I mean by that is, the engine was smooth at idle or wide open throttle, and every where in between. However, when it came to pulling its own weight, it was just slow. I have had several other vehicles with the 302 and I expected a whole lot more out of this power train that what was actually there. I don't know if it was tuned poorly (PCM) from the factory or if the vehicle had a curse on it, but it was just a plain old dog.

I never pulled trailers or anything with it, so I can't help ya there, but I would imagine it would do fine, just make sure you leave on time. hehehe

When I first got the truck I noticed pretty quickly it didn't have any power. So..... I replaced the Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Oil Change, Injector/Fuel System cleaners and checked all other lubricants. No change at all. I experimented with all fuel grades, and did not notice a sagnificant change in power or MPG. I also tried additives, like an Octane Boost type product.

I had lots of problems with my Clutch and Transmission on this truck as well. As stated previously, I had the 5-Spd manual transmission. The trans mechanic that rebuilt it told me that Ford had a whole lot of trouble with that particuliar tranny on the 95s. My 4th gear went out, and took a lot of other things with it. The clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder was toast as well. This may have been from the previous owner though.

Even after all that was squared away, it still didn't make an impact on the performance or fuel economy.

Despite all of that, I really liked the truck and had no other major problems.

I told anyone that would listen about the problems I was having with it, and all I heard was either...."I don't know" or "That is normal for those trucks". So, my only warning for you would be....unless you feel there is something wrong, I wouldn't waste a lot of money trying to tune-up your truck, like I did.

I am no Master Mechanic and it is very possible there was something wrong with it, but I never found it and never heard from anybody else that would point me in the right direction. I will admit I never checked the emissions side (EGR, PCV, 02's,..etc.). I didn't know what to check or look for on that side of it. So, if you do start trying to pinpoint something you may want to start there.

I don't mean to discourage you with all this. The fact of the matter is, mine never gave me any problems (other than the tranny and clutch). The engine never failed to start, ran smooth, and was for the most part a very dependable truck. It was just slow, and loved gas. The 4WD never gave me any troubles and worked flawlessly. It was a sharp looking Truck too and very fun to drive.



sorry this was so long.

 

A lot of views, no responses :-/

 

several things -
That knocking sound (or pinging as it is usually refered to) is probably an ignition ping - the timing is to far advanced or the engine is carboned up, increasing compression, or both. Have the timing checked. Also check the threads here about Sea Foam to take care of the carbon. Also look for threads about cleaning the MAF meter - it is important to keep it clean.

Find out what gear ratio you have - I would guess 3.08. Ford has a funny habit of putting a high ratio like this in with the theory of improving mileage, but all it did was make them sluggs to drive. 3.55 or 3.73 are better ratios for power and may even increase fuel economy because the engine is not lugging all the time.

Also, try gapping the spark plugs to .035 (I found it helped mileage)

The oil leak is just a valve cover gasket(the gasket is cheap, but takes some time to change)

 

You might try chipping. I have a 96 and it wasn't a power house.
I got in touch with Troyer Performance and I went with the 1715 tuner. I know being a 95 you will have to use a chip. The 1715 really made a big difference in mine. The power was increased and the shifting all together changed for the better. I checked my mileage and got 15mpg. It might do better on a long trip. Call Mike and I'll bet he can advise you and steer you in the right direction. Good luck
F96XLT

 

Shane :
I'll check my ratio. I'd like to have power, but I also want longevity with the truck as well as response. What is the difference between the 3.55 and 3.73?

Thanks for the tips with Sea Foam and the MAF sensor. I'll get to that.

F96XLT:
Okay, so the chip you used (you did use a chip, right?) really made that much of a difference? I was thinking of such an investment, but I wish that factory performance would be just right. How much is a chip, around a couple hundred? Thanks again, I mean, I am really lookin for some good suggestions and you guys are coming with some good ones, thanks a lot!

I drove problebly the best Ford truck that I've experinced between early 90s - current models. Was a 2003, was Standard transmission with a V-8 engine. That was so nice! Obviously many engineering differences between my 95 and an 03.

 

poor accleration -it should not hesitate which suggests a fuel delivery problem

overall sluggish - possibly a clogged cat


front end noise- sometimes the radius arm brackets that attach to the frame become loose, especially if the bushings were replaced by grinding out the rivets and replacing with bolts

 

The one I used is a 1715 tuner and they only work on 96 and newer. Check with Mike or Anita at Troyer Performance they will be able to fill you in on the best way for you to go.If you have other problems the chip won't help that. I do know that tuning the stock PC makes a big difference. All I really wanted was more power out on the interstate and it has really helped. I'm set on the low 87 tune right now and it don't run like the same truck. Mine is a 4+4 EX cab with an auto trans with 3.55 gears. It's kind of a heavy for the 5.0. The gas prices have held me back from tuning to the 93 tune BUTTT you know soon I'll have to try it. If you drive one before and after the tune you won't even want to wait for it to be shipped. The folks at Troyer P are very nice and are a real helpful. You don't have to worry about what they tell you. They are good at what they do and know their stuff. That is where I bought mine and they are a real pleasure to work with. Good luck and I hope this helps.
F96XLT

 

front end noise- sometimes the radius arm brackets that attach to the frame become loose, especially if the bushings were replaced by grinding out the rivets and replacing with bolts [/B][/QUOTE]

I was also going to suggest that your radius arm bushing is kaput, and these can be a bit of a bear to change out.

 

To all of those that replied about the front-right noise I was talking about.

I looked under there today and noticed that the previous owner must have had those ball joints replaced. The ball joints on the right side had those inlets for a grease gun, but on the left, no inlets, so I assumed factory. So anyway, I was able to pump and pack that joint with grease, as well as a few other areas. Took it for a test drive and the sound has gone away. So it looks like that ball joint just needed a little grease and that the metal was rubbing when I went over a pot hole. I hope this didn't damage the inside. I proceeded to find any other grease inlets and packed everything up. Used about 60 cents of grease, and I hope that is enough money spend on that problem.


Now about sea foam, yeah, I will go to NAPA and try some of that out. My oil is pretty good lookin yet to I don't feel like sunning the SF through the oil yet. However I'll run it through that vacume hose from the brake booster and let you all know how it goes.

I was going to replace that fuel filter, suppose that can't hurt any by doing so. But it is in a pretty tight location. Don't feel like getting a bath in gas. I'll have to wait tiill I can take it over to a freinds garage whome has a lift.

Thanks again, please keep the suggestions coming! Still alot of things not solved yet.

 

I don't know if you know this but to put it into "granny low" you HAVE TO have the transmission in neutral "N" - not PARK or any other gear.