I need to pull the head on the passenger side of my 99 f150 5.4L.

I got all of the gaskets from the ford dealership. They looked through the service manual to make sure I got them all.

I plan to do it this weekend. Hopefully in one day. Are there any hints?

I know about labeling the connections and what not. I'm interested in what I need to disconnect and how I reach those impossible to reach bolts.

Is it best to drain and remove the radiator?

I want to remove the intake and manifold all in one. Is this possible?

I have a service manual on the way. (Probably get here the day I plan on doing the work.... and it's not a chilton's, but I have one of those too.)

Any other hints would be great!

Thanks.

 

I wouldn't advise doing it yourself without an above average mechanical ability. The timing is critical and if the timing chain is installed wrong you will bend valves. I work for a dealer and usually pull the body, its easier for me and I can do it alot faster to do it that Lets not start the body removal fight again. Yes the Intake will come off in one piece. You'll need to remove the fuel rails and coil packs. There really shouldn't be any need to label vacum lines, there are only a couple and most of the electrical connectors can only be installed in one place. Like I said my best advise I can give you is make 110% sure you have the timing chains correct or you'll really regret doing it yourself

I would advise removing the radiater, you can do it without removing it but it takes just a few more minutes to remove it and it prevents you from accidently hitting it.

 

I'd say there is no way to do it in a day. A professional mechanic who has done it a few times could but doing it the first time always takes longer.

It is a big job. I did the intake changeover for my blower and it took 2 days. The back connectors on the intake are a b***h to reach and I can see why lifting the body would make it easier.

Are you doing it because of a leaky head gasket? If so, Ford may pick up part of the cost under a warranty extension.

If you do it, change the plugs while you are in there, they are so easy with the intake off. You can't take the head off with the intake attached to it, the intake has to come off first.

You will also need new torque-to-yield head bolts, I think. Finally, make sure the cam gear goes on the right way around. I have heard of people putting it on backwards and trashing the chain.

Ian

ps - please, please - no more "body off for head replacement" discussion.

 

Just came across this link from IronHorse:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/022207.pdf

Note the recommendation to use a different head gasket than the original and the recommendation to remove the engine before R&R'ing the head! '' WTF?

Ian

 

I have the new head bolts and the new gaskets. All gaskets are new ford oem. I asked the parts guy about the head gasket being the redesigned one and he said for sure it was the new design. I'm not pulling it just for the heck of it. I am in the crew that get's to launch spark plugs out of the heads. So I am pulling it and getting the head fixed. No new head cause they are too pricey for a truck with over 100,000 on it. And ford laughed so hard I can still hear them when I asked if they were doing anything for it. They said I'm sure we can recommend a local dealer to you who would be more than able to fix the truck at my own cost.

 

One other thing, the intake gaskets should be identical left/right if you have PI heads and different if you have non-PI.

I discovered this on Saturday afternoon 10 mins after the local dealer closed. Luckily one of mine was reusable.

Ian

 

How long did you find that it took you?

I have the same intake gaskets, both left and right.

 

other than what was already mentioned, there is a braket on the back of the head that holds the coolant tube that runs under the intake. The bolts are kind of a pain to get to and i think there are 4 of them. also the head bolts in the back can be a pain. just pull them out as far as you can and use a rubber band to wrap around them and hold them up while you pull the head. i would check into the price of the timing tool from ford. with a shop manual and the tool installed the timing is a breeze, i did one with just painting the chain and sprockets, but i highly recommend using the tool. it is always a good idea to turn the motor over by hand when you are done just to make sure you got it right and the valves don't hit. as far as time goes, it depends on your definiton of "one day". if you are mechanically competent and take your time on the first time you are probably looking at about 16 -20 hours. i did about 5 of these in 2 years and i didn't pull the body, so that is just kind of a personall preferance.

 

I wasn't planning on lifting the body, although I would like a 3" body lift..... I plan on getting started with disconnecting hosed and vacuum lines and wires on friday night. That's something I don't want to rush so I can get it back together right.

This sounds worse than last winter when I pulled the motor out of my cousin's gmc and we replaced it. We did that in two weekends. And that included swapping everything from one motor to another.

 

02RegularCab4x4 gives some excellent advise Heres the timing procedure straight from the shop manual to bad the picture didn't past has well I hope it helps



These are the special tool part #sHolding Tool, Crankshaft
303-448 (T93P-6303-A) Alignment Set, Camshaft
303-S568 (T96T-6256-AR)

If you were planning on installing a body lift doing it would make it easier to get to everthing under the hood but you would need a ladder to get to it


CAUTION: The timing chain procedures must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result.

CAUTION: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.

Compress the tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise.

Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.

While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.

Install a paper clip into the hole in the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in during installation.

Remove the tensioner from the vise.
If the copper links are not visible, mark two links on one end and one link on the other end, and use as timing marks.

Install the timing chain guides.

Pre-position the camshafts.
Rotate the LH camshaft with the Camshaft Positioning Tool until the timing mark is approximately at 12 o'clock.
Rotate the RH camshaft with the Camshaft Positioning Tool until the timing mark is approximately at 11 o'clock.

CAUTION: Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise only. Do not rotate past position shown or severe piston and valve damage can occur.

NOTE: The number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) when the stud on the engine block fits into the slot in the handle of the special tool.

Position the crankshaft so the number one cylinder is at TDC with the special tool.

Remove the Crankshaft Holding Tool.
NOTE: The crankshaft sprockets are identical. They may only be installed one way. Refer to the following illustration for the correct crankshaft sprocket installation.

If removed, install the LH and the RH crankshaft sprockets.

Position the lower end of the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.

NOTE: Make sure the upper half of the timing chain is below the tensioner arm dowel.

NOTE: If necessary, use the Camshaft Alignment Set to adjust the camshaft sprocket slightly to obtain timing mark alignment.

Position the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.

NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.

Position the LH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the LH timing chain tensioner.

Remove the retaining clip from the LH timing chain tensioner.

Position the lower end of the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the single copper (marked) chain link.

NOTE: The lower half of the timing chain must be positioned above the tensioner arm dowel.

NOTE: If necessary, use the Camshaft Alignment Set to adjust the camshaft sprocket slightly to obtain timing mark alignment.

Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Make sure the camshaft sprocket timing mark is positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.

Position the RH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the RH timing chain tensioner.

Remove the retaining clip from the RH timing chain tensioner.

As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.

 

Do I have to pull the timing case off? The manual sayes that I'd have to drain the oil as well?

If I don't crank the motor and don't move the valves in the head, it should remain all in time right?

 

Yes you have got to pull the timing cover you shouldn't need to pull the oil pan (the oil pan gasket is reusable) Ford actually says you should pull all the rocker arms I personally don't. Even if you don't move anything doesnt mean it will stay in time. Basically all the tools do is hold everything in place to make it easier you don't have to use the tools. The chain and gears are lined up by lining up colored links on the chain with marks on the gears. One little hint when everything is properly lined up and the engine is turned over the marks will no longer line up so don't be alarmed. Its easy to do and easy to screw up. Just last week we had a fairly new tech miss the mark the engine never started and the piston hit the valve causing the head of the valve to break off and damage the piston it was an exspensive lesson for him.

 

You say that there are marks and colors.... am going to be able to see these on a truck with 100,000 miles? I probably need to know where to get the tools. I only have tomorrow and friday as by this time saturday I hope to be ready to re-assemble. I appreciate the help. Also, I have seen photos of the throttle body staying on the intake manifold? Is that possible? I won't need to seperate the intake manifold into the lower and upper will I? I'm not sure why the manual said to drain the oil. I won't really be contaminating anything will? I won't be opening anything up that has oil sitting in it?

 

If you do do this yourself be very careful when putting the head back in place. If you scrape it on the dowel pin in back you will damage the finish on the head. Ford says if there is a scratch you can feel with your fingernail, then the head is scrapped because it will leak oil. For this reason Ford is now saying to pull the engine out to replace the head gasket. However if you are very careful you can do it in the truck. I find it helpful to have someone underneath the truck lining up the exhaust flange while putting the head in place. Also cannot stress enough to get the timing right. Make sure the chain tensioners are out as far as they can go when assembling. I use a small screwdriver to push on the ratchet mechanism after installing the chain. any mistakes in the timing of this engine will ruin your day, or week or longer.

 

I actually don't us the cam alignment tool, I use the crank tool because the keyway isn't lined up at 12 oclock like most engines are. Its more like 10 and using the crank alignment tool guarantees proper crank alignment. This is the best way I can explain it Lay your chains out with the links looking somthing like this


I---------------------------_
I---------------------------_

Now pretend the 2 I's are 1 link and mark it with some paint, the 2 links on the other end represented by the underline mark are both marked the single marked link is then lined up with a mark on the crank gear and there is a mark on the cam gear and it goes between the two mark links on the other end of the chain

It can be done without the alignment tools but if you dont know what your doing or don't have some sort of detailed book your playing with fire and soaked with gasoline.

You don't have to change the oil but I would recommend it because you'll need to have the timing cover off and its possible for trash to enter the oil pan.

Good Luck