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  #1  
Old 01-20-2000, 05:13 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 3
Post transmission fluid change

I have a '97 Standard Cab F-150 with a V6.
I went a bought the new transmission filter from Ford today. They also sold me the gasket, which I am now not sure I need, as I think the gasket might be reusable. Anyway, I have never changed the transmission fluid on this vehicle and I want to do it right. I know to change the filter, but is there anything else that needs to be done??
Also, my user manual says it takes 13 quarts of transmission fluid. The guy at the service desk said it takes only six quarts. What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Jim
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2000, 05:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 165
Talking

Greetings!

To change the tranny fluid yourself, you will have to drop the transmission pan. The new filter will "push" into the bottom of the tranny after the pan (and old filter) are removed.
Be sure to have a large drain bucket/container at hand. Loosen all the screws on the tranny pan a bit, then slowly remove the srews from one end of the pan until the pan drops a bit, allowing the majority of the fluid to flow into the bucket. Support the pan with your hand while this occurs. Then remove the rest of the screws until the pan can be carefully dropped and the rest of the fluid can be drained. DO NOT use a screwdriver to "pry" the pan down...you will scratch up and possibly gouge the gasket seams, causing the new gasket not to fit properly and fluid will leak from around the transmission pan.

The drained fluid should be reddish in color, and should not have a “foul” smell to it. It will have a consistency of used motor oil (almost the viscosity of water). Tranny fluid has a particular smell to it...I suggest that you CAREFULLY take a whiff of the new transmission fluid (Mercon) ... the old fluid should smell the same way.

Once the pan is removed, clean it out with some carb cleaner. Make sure the top of the pan (where the gasket will go) is clean and that the surface is flat with no scratches, etc. There will be a circular magnet in the bottom of the pan, and there should be a small amount of metallic "sludge" on the magnet. These are the "shavings" from the tranny gears wearing. A small amount is normal, if there is really alot, or if there are large shavings, have the tranny looked at.
Clean and replace the magnet (easy to forget!)

The old F-150 tranny filters used cork gaskets, I believe the newer F-150's use re-usable silicone/rubber ones. Once you have the gasket properly fitted around the clean pan (and the new filter installed properly!), reinstall the pan in the same manner it was removed (screw by screw). Use a torque wrench if you have one, otherwise, tighten the bolts by hand with moderate pressure on the ratchet. Resist the temptation to over torque the bolts!! BE CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE THREADS... otherwise the pan will leak slowly and drive you nuts.
Be sure that the filter is seated properly, and is not pinched, bent, or otherwise not fitted properly. If it is, it will leak (trust me here) and you will have to do it all again.

TAKE YOUR TIME fitting the new gasket on the pan and reinstalling the pan.

Finally, fill the tranny with the new fluid (make sure to check the owner’s manual for the correct tranny fluid!!!). After the first few quarts, check that the tranny pan is not leaking. It’s easier to remove it if you have to with just a few quarts of fluid in it.

The reason for the discrepancy in the amount of tranny fluid called for is that you will not be draining the torque converter, which will typically hold an additional 5-6 quarts of fluid. You can drain the converter if you wish, but it is a more involved process.

Be sure to check the tranny fluid level again after starting the engine for a few minutes.

Good Luck....

Steve

2000 4X4 Lariat SC SB
5.4 Triton
Two tone black/silver
All options except LS differential

MODS so far:

-Westin step bars (powder coated matte black)
-Lund bug shield
-Gentex electrochromatic rear view mirror
-Cabin filtration kit
-Superchip
-Stull Billet Grill

MODS to come:

-K&N or AirAid FIPK kit
-Flowmaster Force II exhaust (series 50 SUV with duals out the rear)
-Mickey Thompson Challenger 16" wheels with 295/75 BFG AT KO's
-4.10 gears (still thinking about this one ...anyone have any input?)
-LS diff or locker of some sort once they are available

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  #3  
Old 01-21-2000, 11:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Clemson SC US of A
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F-150
Posts: 1,620
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There is also an additional quart or two in the lines and the intregal tranny cooler in the Radiator. This is why a "flush" is done with a machine under pressure with a cleaning solvent and then the fluid is replaced under pressure to get all this solvent out, fluid back in, refill all the lines and remove excess air.

------------------
97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!), MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening "Summer Grill's", Bosch platinum + 4's.


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  #4  
Old 01-24-2000, 09:14 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 3
Post

Thanks for both answers and the detailed explanations.

1.So, once the filter has been changed and the pan put back on, how many quarts of transmission fluid should i pour in?
six?

2. The last message made mention of running 'pressure' through the transmission to clean it out. Since I have no such machine, what do I do? Is this a necessary step?

Thanks,
Jim
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2000, 01:23 AM
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Mesa, AZ USA
Posts: 629
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You could probably use air to blow out the lines. Disconect both lines and put one in a container and blow from the other. Keep the pressure low, under 50 psi or so. If you empty the pan and converter, you should need around 14qts. Check your manual. Remember a few years ago the basic tranny service consisted of dropping the pan, replacing the filter and adding about 6 qts and you were good to go. If you drain most all of the fluid then you're way ahead of the game.
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2000, 07:01 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Shangri-La
Posts: 580
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A flush is the biggest waste of time and a big mess to boot. There is absolutely nothing beneficial about it. Drain your old fluid, install a new filter and gasket, then refill. This isn't brain surgery.
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2000, 10:59 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 101
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You can drain the converter via an access plug at the bottom of the bell housing. Remove the plug and rotate the motor is some fashion to expose the plug. Be VERY CAREFUL when reinstalling the plug, cross threading it will cost you a ton of money.

To estimate the volume removed, take your pan and fill it using a gallon jug and mark on the pan what volumes you have. 4 quarts to a gallon.

birdman
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2000, 11:01 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Clemson SC US of A
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F-150
Posts: 1,620
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I would never try and do a full flush at home. Pay someone who has a machine and the proper solvent. It will get more of the old fluid out and any particles up in the radiator and torq converter too. I believe they actually "back" flush it? I guess its a matter of opinion if that is a waste of time and money. The local Ford dealer charges $89 for this service which includes new filter and all new fluid. Local tranny place will want $59 for just a dump, filter and refill. Look around at your local prices and then judge for yourself. Do it yourself is obviously cheaper but messy and a disposal problem. And really, how much are you actually saving? Think about it. Are you diposing of your waste properly as well. Its important. I did the flush the first time but I may not bother on the second time. I just might change it more often but I wanted all the "stuff" out the first go round.
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2000, 05:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: TUCSON,AZ,USA
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 996
Post

I used a mortor mixing pan to catch the trans fluid. It is about 3 ft wide by 4 1/2 ft long and about 8 inches deep. I fit more than the full legth of the transmission and the torque converter. When I installed the shift kit I pulled the pan and worked on the valve body and let the trans drain all night (I went to bed and finished the next day).

When you pull the filter make sure the o ring comes with it the new filter will have a new o ring. Also throw away the white nylon plug you find floating around in the pan. It was there from the factory.


------------------
97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, Gaylord Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs


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Old 01-26-2000, 05:17 PM


 
 
 
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