Servicing your Transmission Pan and Filter 4R70E and 4R75E (2004-2008 5.4L 3v)
#1
Servicing your Transmission Pan and Filter 4R70E and 4R75E (2004-2008 5.4L 3v)
I just did mine yesterday, pretty easy job. (this may apply to the 4.6L too)
My truck just had the fluid completely flushed at 30K but that service didn't include dropping the pan and replacing the filter. I'm at 31K now and I did the filter my self instead of paying them for it. The transmission and torque converter holds a total of 13.9 qts, by doing this service you change close to half of it. This should take no more than an hour to do.
Tools needed
For safety you need at least a pair of safety glasses and maybe some gloves. You will need 6quarts of fluid Mercon V and a filter, I bought 7 just in case. Tools, You need a Ratchet and a 10mm socket along with a couple extensions to make it easier to get to the bolts between the pan and the cross member. As you can see I also had a torque wrench but I ended up not using it. Ford recommends the bolts to be torqued to 14Nm 10(lb-ft). You also need a Transmission funnel and a pan (sorry no picture, pan needs to be BIG and wide). I used a 15qt pan.
Lets get to work.
Start with loosening the bolts in the pan at one end and slowly work it to the other end so the fluid will drain out the end where you started ( having the pan under it to catch the fluid). 1,-- 2, -- 3. I ended up getting to the point that I had all but two bolts out before I dropped the pan. The two that I removed last were between the pan and the cross member. I kept loosening them to get more angle on the pan to get the most fluid out of it as I could before I dropped it. In order to do that I had to hold the pan up to loosen the bolts, the angle the pan was in gave no access to the bolts.
When the fluid stops it's time to drop it. Now with both hands grab the filter and wiggle it down until it is out. I went ahead and wiped the under side off the valve body some. This ring needs to come out if it doesn't come out with the filter remove it. VVVV
I used a small screwdriver and positioned it above the ring working it down slowly using caution not to let it touch the bore. DO NOT try and stick and object between it and the bore or you will scar the bore.
Here is how the pan looked after I removed it. Mystery part I have read other threads talking about it but I don't remember why it comes in the pans from the factory. This is not needed to be reinstalled.
My truck just had the fluid completely flushed at 30K but that service didn't include dropping the pan and replacing the filter. I'm at 31K now and I did the filter my self instead of paying them for it. The transmission and torque converter holds a total of 13.9 qts, by doing this service you change close to half of it. This should take no more than an hour to do.
Tools needed
For safety you need at least a pair of safety glasses and maybe some gloves. You will need 6quarts of fluid Mercon V and a filter, I bought 7 just in case. Tools, You need a Ratchet and a 10mm socket along with a couple extensions to make it easier to get to the bolts between the pan and the cross member. As you can see I also had a torque wrench but I ended up not using it. Ford recommends the bolts to be torqued to 14Nm 10(lb-ft). You also need a Transmission funnel and a pan (sorry no picture, pan needs to be BIG and wide). I used a 15qt pan.
Lets get to work.
Start with loosening the bolts in the pan at one end and slowly work it to the other end so the fluid will drain out the end where you started ( having the pan under it to catch the fluid). 1,-- 2, -- 3. I ended up getting to the point that I had all but two bolts out before I dropped the pan. The two that I removed last were between the pan and the cross member. I kept loosening them to get more angle on the pan to get the most fluid out of it as I could before I dropped it. In order to do that I had to hold the pan up to loosen the bolts, the angle the pan was in gave no access to the bolts.
When the fluid stops it's time to drop it. Now with both hands grab the filter and wiggle it down until it is out. I went ahead and wiped the under side off the valve body some. This ring needs to come out if it doesn't come out with the filter remove it. VVVV
CAUTION: Carefully use a small screwdriver to remove the seal. Use care not to damage the main control bore.
Here is how the pan looked after I removed it. Mystery part I have read other threads talking about it but I don't remember why it comes in the pans from the factory. This is not needed to be reinstalled.
Originally Posted by i.ride.suzuki
Used when installing the trannys, it plugs it, untill the dipstick tube is installed.
Last edited by whitecrystal1; 10-20-2007 at 05:10 PM.
#2
Continued
Close up of the magnet before cleaning and after cleaning. Here's the pan all cleaned up.
The pan gasket is reusable if it hasn't been serviced and replaced with an aftermarket gasket. Gasket wiped clean, magnet reinstalled and ready to go. Here is the new and old filters to give you a better idea of how dirty it was , you can see the spot I wiped clean on the old filter. Here is one of a few dirty rags.
Time to reinstall the new filter. I applied some fluid on the seal on the new filter. I don't know if it was necessary but I figured it was a good idea. Install the filter opposite the way it was removed until it's all the way in the hole. Bolt the pan back on.
Now get under the hood and locate the transmission dip stick. Pull the dip stick out and insert the funnel and add 5qts of fluid. At this point you need to get the tranny up to operating temperature (150-170 degs) to get an accurate reading and be able to top it off. At operation temp move the gear shifter through all the gears checking for gear engagements. The engine needs to be running when checking the fluid level, if it's still low at this point add fluid in .5 pint (1/2 pint) increments until full in the cross hatch. I actually took my truck for a ride around the block a couple times between checking the level and getting it to full. My truck took 6qts to fill it back up.
________________________________________________
For everyones info, Ford says the filter doesn't need changed under normal and or sever duty services.
This is what it says in the Factory Service Manual
on step four it says
Here's the only time Ford recommends a new filter
Anytime I drop mine I'm putting in a new filter even if it's not needed per Ford. I am going to do this service every 15K along with the flushes at 30K increments. If I recall the fluid and filter cost was around $30.
Close up of the magnet before cleaning and after cleaning. Here's the pan all cleaned up.
The pan gasket is reusable if it hasn't been serviced and replaced with an aftermarket gasket. Gasket wiped clean, magnet reinstalled and ready to go. Here is the new and old filters to give you a better idea of how dirty it was , you can see the spot I wiped clean on the old filter. Here is one of a few dirty rags.
Time to reinstall the new filter. I applied some fluid on the seal on the new filter. I don't know if it was necessary but I figured it was a good idea. Install the filter opposite the way it was removed until it's all the way in the hole. Bolt the pan back on.
Now get under the hood and locate the transmission dip stick. Pull the dip stick out and insert the funnel and add 5qts of fluid. At this point you need to get the tranny up to operating temperature (150-170 degs) to get an accurate reading and be able to top it off. At operation temp move the gear shifter through all the gears checking for gear engagements. The engine needs to be running when checking the fluid level, if it's still low at this point add fluid in .5 pint (1/2 pint) increments until full in the cross hatch. I actually took my truck for a ride around the block a couple times between checking the level and getting it to full. My truck took 6qts to fill it back up.
________________________________________________
For everyones info, Ford says the filter doesn't need changed under normal and or sever duty services.
This is what it says in the Factory Service Manual
Draining the fluid from the transmission pan by removing only the fluid is acceptable for normal or sever duty fluid maintenance.
Do not remove the fluid filter. It is not necessary to change the fluid filter during a normal maintenance fluid change.
If transmission is being repaired for a contamination-related failure, use a new filter and seal. The filter may be reused if no excessive contamination is present.
#3
#6
Mystery part I have read other threads talking about it but I don't remember why it comes in the pans from the factory. This is not needed to be reinstalled.
PS. It is also a good way for the dealer to see if your telling the truth as to whether its your trannys first oil change or not. As they will see the plug and know it has not been changed before. They will remove it after your first oil change.
PS. Great write up. I was going to bring mine to the dealer to get it done as i have never done it before. I think i might have a go at this puppy myself. How long did it take you? is it about as long as to do an oil change?
Last edited by Irish FX4; 10-21-2007 at 08:43 AM.
#7
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White - hat's off to ya
Great tutorial. Good to see you are finding things to keep you busy & distracted while waiting on the tuning.
One suggestion if I may - it's prudent to do the pan swap/filter change, and then the flush. This way any crud in the pan is long gone before the flushing process has a chance to potentially redistribute it. Just fyi.
Thanks!
MGD
Great tutorial. Good to see you are finding things to keep you busy & distracted while waiting on the tuning.
One suggestion if I may - it's prudent to do the pan swap/filter change, and then the flush. This way any crud in the pan is long gone before the flushing process has a chance to potentially redistribute it. Just fyi.
Thanks!
MGD
#13
Originally Posted by Fasteel
My 05 Lariat 5.4L has 80,000 kilometers and hasn't had a Transmission service. Is this something that I should have had done before now? Thanks Greg
#14
Originally Posted by Fasteel
My 05 Lariat 5.4L has 80,000 kilometers and hasn't had a Transmission service. Is this something that I should have had done before now? Thanks Greg
Originally Posted by MGDfan
White - hat's off to ya
Great tutorial. Good to see you are finding things to keep you busy & distracted while waiting on the tuning.
One suggestion if I may - it's prudent to do the pan swap/filter change, and then the flush. This way any crud in the pan is long gone before the flushing process has a chance to potentially redistribute it. Just fyi.
Thanks!
MGD
Great tutorial. Good to see you are finding things to keep you busy & distracted while waiting on the tuning.
One suggestion if I may - it's prudent to do the pan swap/filter change, and then the flush. This way any crud in the pan is long gone before the flushing process has a chance to potentially redistribute it. Just fyi.
Thanks!
MGD
I've heard this both ways on servicing the pan with flush, which order to do it in. I don't know what's really right or wrong but I plan on doing it the other way next time to see if it looks any different. Meanwhile I am going to drop it again at 45K with no flush and take a look then too. It will be a while but I'll update this and post a picture of what it looks like when I do it.
I floored my truck leaving work last night trying to merge into traffic This thing has no power. I got honked at by a chevy driver :o Then today I got a double salute from a old lady driving a Dodge Caravan going to work I need Mike to hurry before I get run over by these crazy people I live around
#15
Does this...
Ok I might just not totally get this.
So is this the same thing as a full tranny flush too? I mean to me, it seems like if you did this its changing the fluid and also filter, but not flushing the system.
So this should be done THEN a flush since it ll just flush the remaining junk out? BUT It would seem to me flush first then change it and just go ahead spend the 25 and put new fluid in again.
I dunno.
If I do this tomorrow, should I go get a flush when I get my plugs changed in a few days? Or is my tranny fluid now ok and system is clean?
To me it makes more sense to flush it first then replace the 1/2 fluid again, mainly because if you flush it it ll go thro a nasty filter to a nasty pan to a nasty magnet. Then you can do this and it ll clean all that up, getting rid of all the shavings etc already in the pad and it wont put new ones back into it.
Just my thoughts, any input?
I think Ill call and make an apt. tomorrow for my plugs atleast.
Thanks!
So is this the same thing as a full tranny flush too? I mean to me, it seems like if you did this its changing the fluid and also filter, but not flushing the system.
So this should be done THEN a flush since it ll just flush the remaining junk out? BUT It would seem to me flush first then change it and just go ahead spend the 25 and put new fluid in again.
I dunno.
If I do this tomorrow, should I go get a flush when I get my plugs changed in a few days? Or is my tranny fluid now ok and system is clean?
To me it makes more sense to flush it first then replace the 1/2 fluid again, mainly because if you flush it it ll go thro a nasty filter to a nasty pan to a nasty magnet. Then you can do this and it ll clean all that up, getting rid of all the shavings etc already in the pad and it wont put new ones back into it.
Just my thoughts, any input?
I think Ill call and make an apt. tomorrow for my plugs atleast.
Thanks!
Last edited by madcat6183; 10-28-2007 at 07:49 PM.