On my '99 4R70W with the T/C drain plug, I should be able to disconnect the tranny cooler line, pump the pan dry, drain the T/C, and proceed to remove the valve body to change out my separator plate, right? This should give me a full fluid change and minimal mess? Or will fluid still be hiding elsewhere?

Andy

 

You run a much bigger risk by running the trans dry than by just dumping it. Buy a drain plug kit so you don't make a mess next time.



If you're careful, you can control the dump so the fluid is catchable - especially if you use an oversized drain pan funnel.

 

Just an FYI:

I got 12 of 13.9 (total) quarts out of mine with a simple pan drop, and TC drain. Good enough for me.

I put in a new filter, and re-used the gasket (my mechanics idea) since it is a high quality gasket.
The tranny really does shift smoother now...

I used this fluid.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...sp?product=117

BTW Andy: greetings from Canton Ohio (Perry Twp) !!

 

Thanks for the input so far.

Since I don't have a lift, and would like to eliminate the chances of a Mecon V shower, (and will be installing an auxillary cooler anyway, I still plan to carefully use the pump to take the fluid from the pan. As long as it's shut off at the first sign of air in the line, I can't see how it could be dangerous. I do plan to add a pan drain when I have it off, though, to make things simpler in the future.

As for fluid, I already have a bunch of Castrol Mercon V in the garage, but will consider the Valvoline for the future.

Andy

 

Does the "pump trick" work??

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=261446

 

Yes, that method will work fine. You will empty the pan, and if you stop the engine as soon as you see air you won't hurt anything. I do it all the time.

 

Can you see the impeller/reactor/turbine vanes in the torque converter hitting the fluid as the level drops? That's how most TC damage occurs. Even if you've been lucky 100x, it's still a ~$300 risk that you don't need to take.

 

This can happen even at idle??

Andy

 

"Can"? Yes. Likely? Maybe not. Worth the risk? Not IMO - I don't like changing transmissions or TCs, and a simple "normal" fluid & filter change will do just as much good with NO risk of bad.

 

I'd also suggest that you do a pan drop. It's not all that difficult. You simply remove the bolts on only one end of the pan and loosten all the others. You basically want to just lower one corner or one end of the pan. I've been doing this on the service vans for the copmpany I work for and it's not that bad. I use a couple of good auto ramps and a typical oil drain pan and I usually only spill a little bit on the floor of the garage. Besides, you're going to drop the pan anyway to replace the filter right? BTW hello from NE Ohio. (Wooster area to be exact)--DIY

 

I'm with steve kinda. Pre '02s with the TC drain plug I would just drain with a pan drop and through the plug, but ya are forced to pump through the cooler on the '02+.

Adrianspeeder

 

First, remove the UPPER radiator transmission line. You will need to install a new fitting (unless you have an auxilary transmission cooler) with a flared tubing end (available at Pep Boys). Then attach a 5-foot long 3/8" ID hose to the upper radiator fitting. DO NOT attach the hose to the metal transmission line. Secure the hose with an adjustable clamp.

Run the hose to a 15-qt. capacity pan on the ground. Then start the engine and allow the ATF to pump into the pan. You may slightly rev the engine to activate the pump at a higher capacity (do not exceed 1,200 rpm). It will take about 5 minutes to drain the transmission. Once the flow rate decreases or the ATF spits, quickly stop the engine.

Re-install the transmission line into the upper radiator fitting (return to the stock set-up). Now is an excellent time to install an auxiliary transmission cooler. Safely secure the vehicle on jack stands and move the 15-qt. capacity pan to under the torque converter.

Remove the rubber bell housing seal with a screwdriver. In order to drain the TC, you must align the drain plug with the hole in the bell housing. Crank (BUT DO NOT START) the engine until the plug is aligned. Two people make this task easier. Remove the drain plug and allow the TC to drain. It will take about 30 minutes to completely drain.

Finally, remove the 14, 10mm transmission pan bolts and lower the pan down. Notice, little or no ATF is in the pan. Drop the filter into the pan and discard. Clean the pan out, as well as the magnet using brake cleaner spray. Re-use the original pan gasket provided it isn't ripped or damaged.

Re-install the pan in reverse order and torque the bolts to 120 in.-lbs. Be sure to re-install the TC drain plug and bell housing seal. You should consider upgrading the main controls (valve body) as shown in Jerry's thesis/novel. Verify the 1-2 Accumulator piston is the new updated version (rubber molded) and not the aluminum one. Replace it with part number F7AZ-7F251-AA). The 2-3 Accumulator piston should also be checked and upgraded to the new rubber style, part number F7AZ-7H292-AA. My report will be available very soon, detailing (step-by-step), how to install these parts.

Re-fill the transmission and torque converter through the dip stick tube. Add 6 quarts of MERCON-V ATF (XT-5-QM) and then start the vehicle. Move the shifter slowly through the gear positions (don't worry if the transmission does not engage each gear). Stop the engine and add 4 more quarts of MERCON-V. Run the shifter through the gears again. Add the last two quarts of ATF slowly and check the dip stick marks. The holding capacity for the torque converter and transmission together is 12 quarts (13 with an auxilary cooler).

 

Thanks for all the replies, and thanks for the text, jbrew. I know I've seen that someplace before. Maybe I'll flip a coin.

Andy

 

5 MINUTES!!!!!!!!!! You've got to be kidding. You will only get 6-7 quarts out doing this, and if it takes 5 minutes there is something REALLY wrong with your transmission pump. If you let a normally operating trans run like this for five minutes, it will run the pump without fluid for about 3-4 of those minutes,
and then you'll be rebuilding your trans.

What works even better is a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley. One person can turn it and watch the torque converter at the same time.

The problem is on the 2002 and later trucks that don't have a drain plug. Then what are you going to do?

I use http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...nsmission.html to change my fluid. It was written by a Ford trans engineer.

 

You have to be kidding me , read whats written before you start flaming- butting in!! The converter next you idiot !! What an A$$. You need retrace your steps, bonehead, cause your lost BIGTIME .. I got 8 quarts in 5 minutes easy , less even and it's empty. That's the first step of three as far as fluid extraction yuh Dk . Mannn, I just went thru hell with mine and I'm try to save someone else the grief if I can. I thought 2001's didn't have drain plugs either, well, I wasn't posting as a solution for that. My concern is that he knows what I didn't know before I started. I can't believe the crap that was left behind. The dealerships started using that "Turbo-Tank Heated Cooler Line Flusher" . 1-800-Rotunda if yuh want one .. I think you could use one LOL. I know where I would like to see it hooked up right now, because your noting less than full of chit - lol , dork........... ( :

Are you kidding me , you actually use that link , OMG , your dumber than a box of rocks, why would you change your filter before you drain the old fluid out , you need to get around to see what others are saying about that link , Draining the tranny by disconnecting the line can be done, but you have to add fluid each time it starts to bubble until you've drained about 18 qt.??? That still leaves all the gunk in the pan and filter, which is why you shouldn't do it that way.
You, forced the contaminent s thru the new filter , dumba$$ - Your a Joke Casey. Pathetic..