I have never had a transmission flush because I took some bad advise. Now when driving around 40-45 mph and above, it shakes a little when I accelerate lightly or when I go up hill.
The mechanic said that it is very possible that if they do a complete flush, that it would stop working. He said that I should check my fluids and add "Lucas Transmission Additive".

What are your thoughts?
Oh, I have a 99 f150 5.4 V8 and 97,000 miles on it.
Please help

 

I agree with your mechanic, if you haven't changed the filter and fluid before now, I wouldn't. I change my fluid and filter every 30,000. I have seen too many transmissions completely fail after filter and flushing with high mileage. I would try to top off your fluid and add an additive. Just my two cents.

 

Thanks.
But how would I know what kind of transmission fluid to use?

 

and does this mean I may have to buy a new tranny eventually????

 

Not a good idea to do an engine or transmission flush on high mileage vehicles.

Co worker got talked into an engine flush. At about 1500 miles into a 3000 mile trip, lost oil pressure and burnt the motor. Mech on that end tore down the engine and found the upper end dry as a bone with no oil. Trash got loose in the oiling system and blocked the oil flow.

We are not allowed to spend the money on a transmission flush with our company vehicles. Just a fluid and filter change.

Although in 2002 I had it done to my 00 Expy and it stopped a transmission shudder on take off.

I know, not much help, but gives you something to think about.

Good luck.

 

expy, so, I can take it to the mechanic and just have him do a fluid and filter change?? That wont hurt anything?
Plus, if I can add fluid myself, where and the hell does it go?? Im an idiot!!!!!
I dont know where it goes. It's probably not under my hood. Somewhere else right?

 

Ya, do a change, no flush, I too have heard alot of negative. Drop the pan, change the filter, drain the torque converter and start filling. It can be messy but pretty easy and a must, you'll notice how nice it shifts etc after.

 

If you have never done it, I'd pay someone to do it. Can't take a chance in you burning up your tranny. It's easy to overfill or underfill one of these things. Plus dropping the pan and changing the filter requires some jacking of the vehicle, or ramps, jack stands, and the knowledge of how to remove the pan, gasket and filter. It's not a job for someone who has never changed the oil.

I used to do all of my service work, but it's just easier on the back to pay someone to do it.

Good luck.

 

Mannn, I've been searching for someone who had this problem for awhile now -No Luck!! Your post is the first I've seen - not trying to steal the thread ..... I have that transmission shudder at takeoff as-well -I have the E4OD. It just happens at take off when it's warmed up. I was going to try a shift kit or a factory tech valve body which worked for someone else , but they didn't have the exact same problem that I have, which is the same shudder that you described that you had on your 00 expy . So you just got it flushed - no additives? That did it ay.

 

Well, thanks guys, I will go ahead and get that done.
I went ahead and put some of that lucas transmission additive in for the mean time.

 

When I took it to my local Valvoline lube joint for a transmission service, the manager whom I have known for many years. (He services my personel vehicles as well as my company vehicles.) ask it I had the shudder. When I said yes, he suggested doing a flush. It worked for me.

 

My 1997 Explorer didn't get its first filter change until it had 125K miles. I installed a shift kit at the same time - pulling the valve body effectively drains most of the fluid from the trans. I also pulled the plug on the converter and drained it as well, so I basically got a complete oil change. It ran beautifully after that.

And when you are talking flush, there are two types - there is the high-pressure flush where they blow some cleaner through it, and there is the flush where they simply replace all the fluid. I would not recommend the high-pressure with cleaner, but the simple exchange of fluid should be just fine.

 

Thanx for the info,
I can flush it , figured I would get about eighteen quarts out of it all together , I'll get a couple extra . So you didn't have force any fluid through the return line because you pulled the valve body? How much fluid did you end up adding? I was going to drain the converter then fill fill it back up so I can charge the rest of the old fluid out of there.

Any recommendations on a shift kit/valve body , I'm not familiar at all with the procedure or what's the best product for my application.

There's an insert in my manual that say's in big letters - Do Not Change The Fluid in this transmission unless instructed to do so by a mechanic at the dealership were purchased

Thanx allot

 

Hi, you almost slipped my mind. Well, I think you can rest easy , I'm pretty sure you don't have a trans problem.
I had the same problem and thought it was my trans as well. At the time I had about 135,000 on the truck (has close to 200,000 now) ..Anyway it's your rear end , there's a TSB on it which I'll find and post when I have more time. The friction modifier in your rear end fluid looses it's value and it shakes shudders , vibrates bad around 45mph. I changed the fluid (I think it's 75/140w , something like that ) and added the proper amount of modifier and the shaking almost went completely away right after - It took about 50 miles before it disappeared completely.
If you don't have a service manual, I'll look in mine if you need the ratio and quantities..

 

Not to hijack the post purpose, but did the shudder feel a bit like a wheel severely out of balance (or out of round), and only occasionally? Mine will nearly feel like it's "bouncing" once in awhile near that speed. I've also noticed a slight groaning from the rear end in tight turns. The rear end was re-done awhile back by the P.O., and I'm thinking he may have skipped the friction modifier.

As for a shift Kit, jbrew, FactoryTech gets good reviews from what I've seen here, and I have one of their separator plates in the garage awaiting install in my 210K-mile 4R70W (along with a cooler and about $60 in fluid!)

Suavehorn, everything I've seen says if the fluid is clean and doesn't smell burnt, you're better off changing it, but if it's dark, it's possible that the "grit" in the fluid is actually helping the clutches do their job, and cleanng it out could cause slippage. Of course, free advice is usually worth what you pay for it, and I'm by no means a professional.

Andy