What shocks for my current setup? HELP!
#1
What shocks for my current setup? HELP!
So I've got a brand new 2013 screw 4x4 with the off road package and towing package. The ride was fine and then I went and put a level on it (2" front spacers/3" rear blocks) and 34.5x12.5 BFG's on it. Now the ride SUCKS! Waaay to stiff. Small dips in the road that felt like nothing now feel and sound like a big speed bump! Really makes me not even want to drive my new truck sometimes!
Is there a shock that is designed for a truck that already has a 2" lift? Or do I have to take off the spacers and go with adjustable shocks?
I'm a suspension newb to say the least so if you have ANY info on my best, and hopefully, most affordable fix to my rough ride I would very much appreciate it!!
Is there a shock that is designed for a truck that already has a 2" lift? Or do I have to take off the spacers and go with adjustable shocks?
I'm a suspension newb to say the least so if you have ANY info on my best, and hopefully, most affordable fix to my rough ride I would very much appreciate it!!
#3
Spacers should not effect your ride quality that much if any at all because you are still using OEM suspension and shocks. I'd say the rough ride is due to the new tires.
Did you get an over the top strut spacer or one that requires diss assembly of the strut in order to insert the spacer between the spring and strut?
IMO I would take the spacer lift out if you could afford a better lift.
Did you get an over the top strut spacer or one that requires diss assembly of the strut in order to insert the spacer between the spring and strut?
IMO I would take the spacer lift out if you could afford a better lift.
#4
#5
Spacers should not effect your ride quality that much if any at all because you are still using OEM suspension and shocks. I'd say the rough ride is due to the new tires.
Did you get an over the top strut spacer or one that requires diss assembly of the strut in order to insert the spacer between the spring and strut?
IMO I would take the spacer lift out if you could afford a better lift.
BILSTEIN Shock Shop - Differences between 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable & Spacer Kit - YouTube
Did you get an over the top strut spacer or one that requires diss assembly of the strut in order to insert the spacer between the spring and strut?
IMO I would take the spacer lift out if you could afford a better lift.
BILSTEIN Shock Shop - Differences between 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable & Spacer Kit - YouTube
Someone suggested its because this truck has the towing package (stiffer shocks) and the spacers really mess with those? I dunno. Don't care as long as I get it smoother!
I did nothing special or different. Same 2" auto spring spacers and 3" rear blocks.
Last edited by Cuz; 06-14-2013 at 06:47 PM.
#6
One thing to remember when using spacers, you now are only using a portion of your true shock travel, shouldn't be noticeable on small bumps but you will notice it on big ones. Sounds like maybe your tires are pumped up too hard, I had to mess with the air pressure until I found something that worked.
#7
Good possibility that in the rear you are topping out the shocks when you hit a dip. On the rear you should have shocks for 2-4" lifted truck. When you put the 3" block on the rear (assuming you added 3"), you stretched out the normal position for the rear shock, so they are much closer to being near the max extension. When you hit a dip, it is probably hitting max.
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
Last edited by kingfish51; 06-14-2013 at 09:32 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Good possibility that in the rear you are topping out the shocks when you hit a dip. On the rear you should have shocks for 2-4" lifted truck. When you put the 3" block on the rear (assuming you added 3"), you stretched out the normal position for the rear shock, so they are much closer to being near the max extension. When you hit a dip, it is probably hitting max.
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
I have 34.5x12.5 BFG TA KO's and they're all the way down to 40lbs (really to low) and the ride is still really stiff and bumps are BAM!
Thanks for any help!
#9
One thing to remember when using spacers, you now are only using a portion of your true shock travel, shouldn't be noticeable on small bumps but you will notice it on big ones. Sounds like maybe your tires are pumped up too hard, I had to mess with the air pressure until I found something that worked.
Good possibility that in the rear you are topping out the shocks when you hit a dip. On the rear you should have shocks for 2-4" lifted truck. When you put the 3" block on the rear (assuming you added 3"), you stretched out the normal position for the rear shock, so they are much closer to being near the max extension. When you hit a dip, it is probably hitting max.
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
As to the tires, what is the max pressure and weight the tires can handle, and what pressure are you using in them?
Last edited by nathan3306; 06-14-2013 at 11:45 PM.
#10
I'm confused by this statement. When using a spacer (front) you will be over extending you stock suspension by whatever size lift you install. Not to mention full compression will now lack the bottom out factory position and continue to compress by whatever size lift you install. That's how I blew my front strut on a camping trip. Not to mention my upper control arms and coil springs banging around.
This is why it can cause a rougher ride over big bumps but not be noticeable on smaller ones, bigger bumps cause it to bump out on up-travel too early causing an abrupt stop and down travel now can cause the upper arm to hit the spring again causing an abrupt stop and loud noise.
Even with the 5100's you can still blow them out though if you hit a bump to big, it won't be as easy to do, but it's still possible.
#11
I'm confused by this statement. When using a spacer (front) you will be over extending you stock suspension by whatever size lift you install. Not to mention full compression will now lack the bottom out factory position and continue to compress by whatever size lift you install. That's how I blew my front strut on a camping trip. Not to mention my upper control arms and coil springs banging around.
^^^THIS^^^^
^^^THIS^^^^
#12
He's correct it does limit the travel, specifically the up-travel. It'll cause the shock to bump out sooner. It'll add down travel which allows the shock to go down farther, which is why it caused your upper arm to hit the spring and which in turn can cause it to over-extend, cause increased wear on balljoints, tie rod ends, and cv axles. But still only a portion of the struts true travel.
Last edited by nathan3306; 06-15-2013 at 09:12 AM.
#13
If the max pressure of the tires is 80psi, 40 is too low. They should be at a minimum of 45. 50 would be better. They do make shocks for 2" lift. Also for 4" lift.
If the front spacer is leveling type, that sits at the top of the shock like most, it would not affect the front shock as far as travel distance. Since the compression of the spring is not changed (you are just pushing the lower control arm further down), that would have no affect on the front. The same is not true of the rear.
PS - By having two different rates of travel on the suspension, you can make the vehicle nearly impossible to handle. It would be even worse if it was from side to side., rather than front to back.
If the front spacer is leveling type, that sits at the top of the shock like most, it would not affect the front shock as far as travel distance. Since the compression of the spring is not changed (you are just pushing the lower control arm further down), that would have no affect on the front. The same is not true of the rear.
PS - By having two different rates of travel on the suspension, you can make the vehicle nearly impossible to handle. It would be even worse if it was from side to side., rather than front to back.
Last edited by kingfish51; 06-15-2013 at 09:51 AM.
#14
If the max pressure of the tires is 80psi, 40 is too low. They should be at a minimum of 45. 50 would be better. They do make shocks for 2" lift. Also for 4" lift.
If the front spacer is leveling type, that sits at the top of the shock like most, it would not affect the front shock as far as travel distance. Since the compression of the spring is not changed (you are just pushing the lower control arm further down), that would have no affect on the front. The same is not true of the rear.
PS - By having two different rates of travel on the suspension, you can make the vehicle nearly impossible to handle. It would be even worse if it was from side to side., rather than front to back.
If the front spacer is leveling type, that sits at the top of the shock like most, it would not affect the front shock as far as travel distance. Since the compression of the spring is not changed (you are just pushing the lower control arm further down), that would have no affect on the front. The same is not true of the rear.
PS - By having two different rates of travel on the suspension, you can make the vehicle nearly impossible to handle. It would be even worse if it was from side to side., rather than front to back.
I'm currently running 45psi. I did take it to 40 just to see if that helped but it didn't much, if any, so I went back up to 45. I do agree that 50 would be even better but...
What did you mean by "nearly impossible to handle"? In what situation(s) would it be so?
Do you happen to have a link to these shocks for a 2" lift truck?
Thanks again
#15
By impossible to handle, I meant that with different rates it will move the vehicle differently from front to rear or side to side. Which could make it near impossible to control, especially in wet or slippery conditions. Basically the vehicle is trying to move in more than one direction at the same time.
Last edited by kingfish51; 06-16-2013 at 10:41 AM.