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#1
#5
most people run 37's with 8" and either 37's or 38's with 10" of lift. If you limit yourself to 13.5" wide tires and have the right backspacing(4.5" or a litte more) then you should be able to squeeze 38's in there. I'd go with 37x13.5's though. That won't look stupid in the least. Why not skip the body lift and just add the other 2-2.5" on top of the 6" lift?
#7
It will wear out you ball joints on the upper control arms quicker but the smaller you go..I'd go with 2".... the less damage it will do. It's the equivelent of adding a leveling spacer to a stock truck. What 6" lift are you going with? If you're going to get coilovers for the front then all you have to do is adjust them that extra 2". If no coilovers then go with Bilstein 5150 adjustable struts set at the 2" mark. For the rear go with a bigger block/AAL combo to achieve the 8". Like a 5.5" block and 2"/2.5" AAL. A lot of people do it and have no problems.
Don't forget though that it is HIGHLY reccomended you have your differentials regeared when running anything above 35" tires. You'll need an extended brake line kit too and maybe a driveshaft extender.
Don't forget though that it is HIGHLY reccomended you have your differentials regeared when running anything above 35" tires. You'll need an extended brake line kit too and maybe a driveshaft extender.
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#8
Well heres the link to the kit i was looking at http://www.ntwonline.com/04-08_FORD_...P12740C788.cfm let me know what you think
#9
That's the rough Country kit. I have no experience with it at all and I have heard good and bad things about it. From what i know, and the price reflects it, that's about the bottom of the barrel when it comes to lifts. Not saying you'll have problems, not saying you won't either. If you're gonna use that kit though and want to add an extra 2", go with the Billstein 5150's set at 2" like I said before and you'll get 8" of lift and not hurt your ball joints too much. Those should be about $300-$400 depending on where you find them. Since you already have an AAL you'll save yourself some money by not having to purchase one and get it installed. I'd check with NTW and find out what size rear block is supplied with that kit. If it's just a 2 or 3" block that is stacked on top of your oem block then you want to get rid of it. Also, a lot of kits supply blocks that will not give you enough lift to level the truck. In other words the front ends up being higher than the rear. Your best bet is to just buy a 5.5" block. I think it's Fabtech that makes it and if not then it's Pro Comp. They should run you less than $200. Think about it in this way. A 4x4 F150 will sit level if the rear block is removed. If you're adding 8" of lift up front via the dropped crossmember/knuckles and the 5150's, then you need to add 8" of lift to the rear w/ the oem block removed. Your 2" AAl and a 5.5" block sets it at 7.5" but the AAL's vary in what they give you heigthwise. Many members have used the 5.5 and AAl and acheived level status though. Some even with the 5" block. Rize also makes a 6" block but it will be a little more expensive. The extended brakeline kit will run you about $150 and the driveshaft spacer will be another $100. All together it's about an additional $800 or so to add that 2" to the suspension and it shouldn't cost you any more really to get that stuff installed at the same time you do your lift because the majority of that stuff will be aprt or removed anyways. You can buy a 3" body lift for like $300 but it will cost you like $1000 to get it installed because it is a huge PITA on these trucks from what people have said.