Lower Ball Joints/Idler Arm Replacement

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Old 09-06-2007, 10:40 AM
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Lower Ball Joints/Idler Arm Replacement

Howdy!
I just got some new tires (Maxxis Buckshots) and went in for an alignment. The mechanic told me I need:
1) New passenger side lower ball joint
2) New passenger side idler arm

After looking at the Hayne's manual and doing some research here, I feel pretty comfortable doing this myself.

I currently have about 35,000 miles on the truck, and I do a bit of mild offroad driving. My questions is: Since one ball joint and one idler arm (there are two, aren't there?) is worn out, should I just go ahead and do all of them? I figured if one of the ball joints is worn out, the other three aren't far behind.

Also, since I'll have the front suspension apart, my shocks don't feel that great (don't factory FX4 shocks wear out at about 30K miles anyway?). I think I'll replace them, too. Definitely going with Bilsteins.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

Last edited by cpaggie_07; 09-06-2007 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:36 PM
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Yes, if one balljoint is bad I def. would reccomend changing top and bottom on both sides and both tie-rod ends,idler arms, with the shocks and be done with the front end once you get alignment. I had to rent the balljoint press to do mine, got it from Auto Zone on the loan a tool program, you leave a deposit but get it back once you return the tool. It took about 4-1/2hrs to do the front end of my truck and then once the alignment was done it drove like a new truck and I didn't worry about some else going bad, the pitman arm was still in very good shape. so i'm good to go.
 
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:09 PM
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This doesn't sound correct for only having 35k on the truck. The way to check for a bad balljoint is to raise the truck and grab the tire on the top and the bottom then shake the tire to see if it has excessive movement. If you have a bad balljoint you will fill the extra movement.
 
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:50 PM
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Ball joints are high wear items. My idler arm and all 4 ball joints were replaced under warranty before 60k miles and my truck has never been off road.
 
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Old 09-07-2007, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by torkum
This doesn't sound correct for only having 35k on the truck. The way to check for a bad balljoint is to raise the truck and grab the tire on the top and the bottom then shake the tire to see if it has excessive movement. If you have a bad balljoint you will fill the extra movement.
I know what you're saying. I should't be doing this extensive maintenance at only 35K! But really, only ONE balljoint and ONE idler arm is bad. I saw the mechanic move my tire in/out this morning, so there's no doubt it's bad! I just want to do a bit of preventative maintenance. I won't have time to be doing this type of stuff myself after next May(I'll be at Marine Corps Basic School and then Flight School), so I'd like to do it now and get it out of the way.

Besides, I know my shocks are worn out, I can hear them! This will give me an excuse to replace them. And I don't really treat it nicely offroad either. As far as I know, the IFS system is really a weak point on these trucks... I guess that's something we all have to deal with unless we want an F250.

Also, I'm not sure what the cost difference is likely to be between factory Ford control arms/balljoints/idler arms and an aftermarket brand. Although I'm almost positive an aftermarket brand will provide longer service life. Any suggestions on parts brands?
 
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Old 09-07-2007, 12:37 AM
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Replace all 4 ball joints, all 4 tie rod ends, and your idler arm, and go get it aligned...

And your ball joints are pressfitted in, so you will likely need to let a profession do them.
-Patrick
 
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
Replace all 4 ball joints, all 4 tie rod ends, and your idler arm, and go get it aligned...

And your ball joints are pressfitted in, so you will likely need to let a profession do them.
-Patrick
Well the upeer ball joints can only be purchased with the control arm. Ran me about $60 each at Pep Boys. Never replaced my lower ball joints, but the upper control arms are very easy.

The idler arm is very easy. Just replaced mine two days ago and it took me about a half hour. You only have one, btw. The other side is the Pitman arm.
 
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:52 PM
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Okay, I got the new upper control arms, and both lower ball joints replaced, as well as the idler arm and an alignment. The truck feels much better, and the whole front end of the truck feels tighter, especially when turning. Parts were about $300. I wish I'd had the time and proper tools to do it myself, but at least I probably won't have to worry about front suspension problems for a while. Thanks for all the advice!
 



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