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  #1  
Old 03-10-2006, 07:55 PM
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cv joint

Hi guys,
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW HARD IT WOULD BE TO CHANGE A CV JOINT?
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2006, 03:18 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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Which one? Only the inboard one is replacable. And it is not worth the hassle. Buy an new one that is warranteed for life. You have to remove them to fix the inner anyways. If it is the outer you will be replacing it anyways.

JMC
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2006, 12:26 AM
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I assume you mean the whole CV axel not just the joints of the CV. I just did both of mine and there not bad at all to replace. They cost about $130 a piece with the lifetime warranty. If you have any questions just ask and I'll check in on this thread later.
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2006, 01:01 AM
JMC JMC is offline
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99,

Oops, my mistake. Yes, replace the whole halfshaft.

JMC
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Old 03-15-2006, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMC
99,

Oops, my mistake. Yes, replace the whole halfshaft.

JMC
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2006, 01:55 PM
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If you can do the brakes, you can handle the CV joint.

tips:
Break the spindle nut loose with the wheel still on and the vehicle still on the ground. MUCH easier that way (just pop the wheel canter cap off and it's right there)
Have an assortment of universal joints for the ratchet.

On a side note, JMC, do you have to separate the control arm from the knuckle, or could you remove the hub assembly and slip the whole halfshaft assembly out through the hole?
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2006, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
If you can do the brakes, you can handle the CV joint.

tips:
Break the spindle nut loose with the wheel still on and the vehicle still on the ground. MUCH easier that way (just pop the wheel canter cap off and it's right there)
Have an assortment of universal joints for the ratchet.

On a side note, JMC, do you have to separate the control arm from the knuckle, or could you remove the hub assembly and slip the whole halfshaft assembly out through the hole?
All you have to do is remove the three bolts on the back of the knuckle and pound on the spindle with a mallet and it slides right through.
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2006, 02:44 PM
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The three bolts on the back allow the hub to come out towards the front, but the outer CV joint/slpined piece that engages the hub is still attached at the other end to the front axle shaft, no? If you un-bolt the other end, can...

Nevermind.... just answered my own question.... The inner joint is bolted to the axle shaft on the F-150. Once it's un-bolted, the inner end is free, and there should be enough clearance to slip the old halfshaft out the back of the hub, no?

I'm getting the front end of my Explorer confused with the front end of my F-150. (The inner joint slips into the axle tube on the explorer, so to rget enough clearance to remove the inner joint from the axle, you have to move the spindle/upright/knuckle out of the way to pop it out)

Moving on.....
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  #9  
Old 03-15-2006, 02:46 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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Joe,

The book says to pop off the upper ball joint. I did mine without removing any ball joints. I removed the bolts at the inboard flange and move it aside so you can slip the other end out of the hub. Once it is out of the hub it can be wiggled out from the A-arms.

JMC
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2012, 11:25 PM
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Ive got a bad clunk in the driver wheel as well. Already replaced brakes Sonora knot the caliper or bracket. I've never done the cv shafts so I'm curious what special tools I'll need to get this done?
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:24 PM
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Also, do I apply any grease or anything to splines when I reinstall?
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2012, 04:25 PM
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Hope this helps!!

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Old 09-19-2012, 04:25 PM


 
 
 
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