Crankcase Ventilation
#1
Crankcase Ventilation
Thought I would share. Have hoped something like this would come out for a long time. It's finally here. A valve cover breather with a check ball. It will vent under boost and seals up with the check ball under vacuum allowing the PCV system to function as intended. Since it seals under vacuum you won't run lean which is why we can't use the old school vents.
I ordered mine this morning in gloss black http://www.c-f-m.com/performancepart...m#.VB19qdm9LCQ
They have 8 different finishes. Part number is 1-1020-GB
PRODUCT CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather Kit for 2005-2014 Mustang GT & V6 Price $69.95
Here's a write up on these: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...Cover-Breather
I ordered mine this morning in gloss black http://www.c-f-m.com/performancepart...m#.VB19qdm9LCQ
They have 8 different finishes. Part number is 1-1020-GB
PRODUCT CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather Kit for 2005-2014 Mustang GT & V6 Price $69.95
Here's a write up on these: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...Cover-Breather
Last edited by twinskrewd; 09-20-2014 at 09:23 AM.
#4
#6
On a boosted engine, there is so much blowby past the rings that it pressurizes the engine base to the point that the normal crankcase ventilation through the PCV to the intake may not handle it. Some vehicles even non boosted vehicles that are run hard are candidates for oil collectors which is a can in the vent line that collects engine oil that is blown out the vent line from the oil pan. If this can isn't there, the oil is blown into the intake. You may have noticed some normal high mileage engines that have oil on the air filter. this is because of the worn out rings not controlling the blowby and the pressure is blowing oil from the base to the intake. With this device if it works as advertised, it will vent the engine when there is pressure and close when there is a vacuum. During normal operation, there should be a vacuum in the oil pan because the intake manifold is operating at a vacuum and is sucking through the PCV. The purpose of the PCV which is a check valve it to prevent an explosion that blows the oil pan off when the engine backfires.
#7
I don't need a check valve and catch cans are crap, you have to empty cans, they freeze solid in the winter, they can be a pain to install and they cost money. I fixed my Ecoboost issues by drilling a 1/16" hole at the bottom of the outlet at the charge air cooler. The charge air cooler (CAC) on these Ecoboosts act like a catch can as water and gunk accumulates in them. The small holes lets all that crap out and has solved my shudder no power issue when driving in rain for long periods. Drilling the hole takes 2 minutes, costs nothing and is easily reversible. The hole may freeze shut in the winter, but the air is dry and I don't expect much water accumulation during winter. Drill a small hole and be done with it. The Ecoboost is under positive pressure most of the time so sucking debris into a 1/16" hole should not be a issue.
Bob
Bob
Last edited by Fastbob; 11-19-2014 at 08:27 AM.
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#8
I don't need a check valve and catch cans are crap, you have to empty cans, they freeze solid in the winter, they can be a pain to install and they cost money. I fixed my Ecoboost issues by drilling a 1/16" hole at the bottom of the outlet at the charge air cooler. The charge air cooler (CAC) on these Ecoboosts act like a catch can as water and gunk accumulates in them. The small holes lets all that crap out and has solved my shudder no power issue when driving in rain for long periods. Drilling the hole takes 2 minutes, costs nothing and is easily reversible. The hole may freeze shut in the winter, but the air is dry and I don't expect much water accumulation during winter. Drill a small hole and be done with it. The Ecoboost is under positive pressure most of the time so sucking debris into a 1/16" hole should not be a issue.
Bob
Bob
#9
Edit: After reading again it was not specified what vehicle and engine, just ignore "well freaking duh". Carry on......
Last edited by Fastbob; 11-19-2014 at 06:33 PM.
#10
First, I am NOT here to discount the R&D behind these things. I know nothing of the company producing these parts. I neither support nor decline their statements and claims. I do not care about them. I care about setting the trucks up right. And avoid any confusion, which is already apparent.
Second, I have been trained by OSU and Ford Powertrain and Electronics Engineers, and before that is was MOPAR and in between, GM Advanced Certifications. I have made powerful allies. I have made friends. I have adapted their trains of thought, and through data collection, corroboration, and conference calls, made very good friends of them. In fact, up to the F-150 Brand Manager, they are on speed dial. When I say "WE", you never know who I am referring to. Just know that I stand alone, but have powerful allies. From JDM to FORD. And all blower brands. You KNOW THIS.
PCV used to be a downdraft tube and the cars moving air over the tube induced a small negative pressure but still vented CC gases to atmosphere (In the 50s!). For 60 years now, NO PCV has been approved by the EPA for OEMs to vent even EVAP gases to atmosphere as of late (OBD II). No emission area is going to pass a set of open breathers. How do I know? Because I was a licensed state inspector. On top of the credentials.
Not a debate. If you are not familiar with the old V belt Moroso CC vacuum pumps, then you may just want to sit back and watch this thread unfold. Why? Because I am about to say will stir ****. Not the intent. Just the facts.
A VERY SIMPLE and $3 check valve will solve all of your problems and save you hundreds in custom tuning. That $180 BILLET piece may LOOK pretty, but you STILL have to empty it when you are two quarts down. Do you want more maintenance?
All BS aside, this is about three issues. VENTING CC gases and oil control and most of all, PROMOTING RING SEAL. I have the solution for these trucks, and basically any blown engine experiencing these problems. Forget leakage around IAC, as BOOST will blow past BOTH PORTS at WFO.
I can assure you, the mass market of tuners will NOT be tuning for you to vent to atmosphere... BEHIND THE MAF. Measure the air ONCE, and USE ALL OF IT.
ANYONE? RAIDER? TASCA? TROYER? GIVE IT YOUR BEST SHOT. I really want to hear what you have to say, just think about it first...
Second, I have been trained by OSU and Ford Powertrain and Electronics Engineers, and before that is was MOPAR and in between, GM Advanced Certifications. I have made powerful allies. I have made friends. I have adapted their trains of thought, and through data collection, corroboration, and conference calls, made very good friends of them. In fact, up to the F-150 Brand Manager, they are on speed dial. When I say "WE", you never know who I am referring to. Just know that I stand alone, but have powerful allies. From JDM to FORD. And all blower brands. You KNOW THIS.
PCV used to be a downdraft tube and the cars moving air over the tube induced a small negative pressure but still vented CC gases to atmosphere (In the 50s!). For 60 years now, NO PCV has been approved by the EPA for OEMs to vent even EVAP gases to atmosphere as of late (OBD II). No emission area is going to pass a set of open breathers. How do I know? Because I was a licensed state inspector. On top of the credentials.
Not a debate. If you are not familiar with the old V belt Moroso CC vacuum pumps, then you may just want to sit back and watch this thread unfold. Why? Because I am about to say will stir ****. Not the intent. Just the facts.
A VERY SIMPLE and $3 check valve will solve all of your problems and save you hundreds in custom tuning. That $180 BILLET piece may LOOK pretty, but you STILL have to empty it when you are two quarts down. Do you want more maintenance?
All BS aside, this is about three issues. VENTING CC gases and oil control and most of all, PROMOTING RING SEAL. I have the solution for these trucks, and basically any blown engine experiencing these problems. Forget leakage around IAC, as BOOST will blow past BOTH PORTS at WFO.
I can assure you, the mass market of tuners will NOT be tuning for you to vent to atmosphere... BEHIND THE MAF. Measure the air ONCE, and USE ALL OF IT.
ANYONE? RAIDER? TASCA? TROYER? GIVE IT YOUR BEST SHOT. I really want to hear what you have to say, just think about it first...
Honestly I think it's all in your head. I believe it's called delusions of grandeur. The piece is not $180. It was less then $80. It works as advertised. Your $3 check valve will not keep oil from getting all over the intercooler
while venting the crankcase unless you run it to a catch can.
You have exagerated to the point of lying regarding the use of catch can. At most I have maybe 2 teaspoons of oil in my catch can at each oil change and that seems to be what most report. 2quarts low? Maybe in a vehicle you set up. Not mine.
The check valve will not save you hundreds in custom tuning. Again an outright lie. Custom tuning is an option on any vehicle. It has nothing to do with a check valve. No tuner anywhere would attempt to tune a vehicle with a vent for the crankcase that did
not seal when the system is under vaccum as this would allow unmetered air in thus causing a lean conditions. The crank case vent I posted solves this problem. It allows the air that blows by the rings to escape the crankcase preventing oil leaks and crankcase pressurization. It only does this when the system is under boost
which is when the PCV system stops functioning and it seals the system when under vaccum to allow the PCV system to resume operation and no unmetered air is introduced.
3 post and not once did you answer any questions. What a waste of time.
#11
All internal combustion engines no matter how they are setup have some blow by. Blow by is air and fuel both burnt and un-burnt from the combustion chamber which manages to slide by the
piston rings and in to the crankcase. Think about it... If your oil fits by the rings which is part of cylinder wall lubrication then it's very easy for air and fuel to fit past them.
This pressurizes the crankcase and contaminates the oil (turns it black and reduces it's viscosity). We've all seen very black oil. Some of it comes from heat the rest is pollution
from the combustion chamber that made it past the rings. The air that slides by creates pressure in the crankcase which leads to oil being pushed by seals like the valve cover, timing cover,
oil pan, and even the difficult to replace front and rear crank shaft seals. The pressure in the crankcase can also create a resistance to the pistons downward movement thus reducing horsepower.
Pressure in the crankcase can also force additional oil past the rings and in to the combustion chamber which can dilute the fuels octane rating. So what do we do about it?
Up through 1960 the crankcase pressure was vented to the outside world. An oil cap on one valve cover and a vent cap on the other. By the late 50's it was determined this is toxic air
polluting the world. The PCV valve developed in the 40's for use on military tanks and was now considered for use automobiles. The PCV works off of engine vacuum. Anytime the engine is under vacuum the PCV system is operating sucking vapors from the crankcase and allowing them to re-enter the engine through the intake to be burned in the combustion chamber. It is a pollution control device but it also does us the favor of sucking out the fuel and hydrocarbons that escape the rings. When these toxins are sucked out while still in vapor form they do not fall into or become mixed with the oil thus extending oil life. The PCV system however fails to function when the manifold is pressurized by a turbo or supercharger. The PCV system can also become overwhelmed and not provide enough ventilation when an engine has severely worn rings and has massive amounts of blow by.
So what to do? On a naturally aspirated engine...nothing. It works fine. However the oil mist, hydrocarbons, and air from the crankcase will eventually dirty up the intake and if you have secondary throttle butterflies which our trucks do it will eventually cause that system to fail. The butterflies can't move properly in the gummed up intake and the actuator motor fails while trying to force them through it. So clean your intake ever 80-100K. Clean or replace the PCV valve at this time as well. It gets dirty too.
What about us boosted guys? During normal operation the oil mist, hydrocarbons, and dirty air from the crankcase is sucked out through the PCV system and returned to our intake.
That oil lands on our intercoolers and reduces their efficiency. That means hotter air, less hp, and an increased risk of detonation. Wait a sec though. The PCV doesn't function without vacuum and we all no all know that when under boost we have no vacuum. That's where our problem begins. Now we have crankcase pressure building and no where for it to go. And yes there is even more of it when your boosted because now the pressure in the cylinder has been increased 50-100%. So in theory you have double the blow by of a stock NA motor. You guys have all been under the hood of your trucks. With a roots, twinscrew, or tvs blower the PCV hose routes back to the intake somewhere in front of the throttle body. And on the driver-side is a hose on top of the valve cover that connects behind the throttle body. This vacuums up the crankcase pressure anytime the throttle body is not WOT. It pollutes the blower and intercooler with oil mist. The best way to stop it is with a catch can. The can installs anywhere between the valve cover nipple and intake nipple behind the throttle body. Empty it every time you change your oil. Takes about 2-3 mins.
We still have a potential problem though. There's no guarantee that hose is providing enough crankcase ventilation when under boost as WOT. It probably is but who knows?? If you have an weeping oil seals then probably not. That's where the vented cap comes in to place. But we can't use a vented cap as it defeats the PCV system. So what about a vented cap with a check ball that seals and allows the PCV system to operate but will float and allow gases to escape when crankcase pressure is present? Now we are on to something and hence the reason this product was developed.
Hope this helps guys.
#12
Ok, here is what I am getting at. Excuse me, I should have said nothing of where I have been. This is 15 years of trying all these things, so I thought I might qualify it.
You are right, I should have said nothing. I have lived this for 15 years. Every day. That is what I should have said. The point was, no matter what company was training me, they taught me well,
and some lessons learned apply to every engine out there. Sorry Jason... But I am NOT delusional. Well educated and certified in my field, as I am certain you are as well. I am CERTAIN that what
ever you do, you do it with excellence. That is my mission. Has been since the beginning. And I TRY EVERY DAY to provide it. Excellence. Not right all the time, and no expert or know it all.
But you cannot argue with 6 blown F-150s daily driven or say Mark and I had the solutions 15 YEARS AGO. Again, everyone looks at the current two weeks, not the archives. Links are everywhere.
I choose the $3 option and move on. I wrote what I did to invoke thought and see what others that have been trained have to say, not to post my ****ing resume'. The other goal of my post was to
bring out the KNOWLEDGEABLE ones in this field. Such as yourself. But there are certain laws that apply here. And they are called laws for a reason. All this aside from EEC and calibration and
tuning... Another day. The point? To stay focused. Not delusional. Not guesses. Thought invoking. And it did invoke thought, eh?
Open breathers will not pass state emission inspection, so are for racing use only or NON EMISSION areas. Then to consider all of my trucks have chosen a very cheap solution that requires no
maintenance, cost the same as a new Sony head unit, and NEVER have to be drained to refill my CC or spray oil everywhere. Sorry, I am old school, and we like to meter air once and use it.
As a general rule. There are always methods of tuning around anything. But do you need to? Do you NEED to spend $60-180?
The best benefit you get from breathers is to vent gases, which the EPA frowns on anyway. Not an issue for non-emission areas or racing of course.
You are right, I should have said nothing. I have lived this for 15 years. Every day. That is what I should have said. The point was, no matter what company was training me, they taught me well,
and some lessons learned apply to every engine out there. Sorry Jason... But I am NOT delusional. Well educated and certified in my field, as I am certain you are as well. I am CERTAIN that what
ever you do, you do it with excellence. That is my mission. Has been since the beginning. And I TRY EVERY DAY to provide it. Excellence. Not right all the time, and no expert or know it all.
But you cannot argue with 6 blown F-150s daily driven or say Mark and I had the solutions 15 YEARS AGO. Again, everyone looks at the current two weeks, not the archives. Links are everywhere.
I choose the $3 option and move on. I wrote what I did to invoke thought and see what others that have been trained have to say, not to post my ****ing resume'. The other goal of my post was to
bring out the KNOWLEDGEABLE ones in this field. Such as yourself. But there are certain laws that apply here. And they are called laws for a reason. All this aside from EEC and calibration and
tuning... Another day. The point? To stay focused. Not delusional. Not guesses. Thought invoking. And it did invoke thought, eh?
Open breathers will not pass state emission inspection, so are for racing use only or NON EMISSION areas. Then to consider all of my trucks have chosen a very cheap solution that requires no
maintenance, cost the same as a new Sony head unit, and NEVER have to be drained to refill my CC or spray oil everywhere. Sorry, I am old school, and we like to meter air once and use it.
As a general rule. There are always methods of tuning around anything. But do you need to? Do you NEED to spend $60-180?
The best benefit you get from breathers is to vent gases, which the EPA frowns on anyway. Not an issue for non-emission areas or racing of course.
intercooler. To date a 50 state street legal solution has not been found. And again I ask when did you get so concerned about emissions? You have yet to answer my calling you out on custom tuning and use of larger blowers on street legal kits rendering them no
longer street legal. You recommend these activities all the time. Archives?? Show me your solution then.
Crash "I wake up in the morning and "**** excellence".
And since you brought it up instead of keeping it technical, I would prefer that if someone here is going to judge me or fire up a controversial topic with me in my chosen
field, I would ask them to have an ID in the Ford Masters Program, at LEAST.
With all due respect... This is where I ask Blue Jay to bring Raider back AGAIN.
field, I would ask them to have an ID in the Ford Masters Program, at LEAST.
With all due respect... This is where I ask Blue Jay to bring Raider back AGAIN.
the system works and where it fails.
Last edited by twinskrewd; 11-21-2014 at 01:17 PM.
#13
If number of exhaust setups counts for brain power I'm on high on the dumb mother effer list as I have had 6 different setups.