I'm getting ready to install my new system and have been researching the forums for the last few weeks on hardware and wiring. So far I've gathered everything I think I need but I wanted to run everything by those that have tackled this install already for any possible items or details I've missed. My truck is a 2013 FX4 SuperCrew with Sony/Navigation/MFT.
This is a list of the hardware I have already aquired:
JL SSI Signal Summing Interface, Audio Control LC2i with AccuBass, Infinity Kappa 6.5" component set for front doors and tweeter replacement, Infinity Reference 6x8 coax (two way) speakers for rear, JL JX360/2 2 channel amp for Infinity component set and a JL JX1000/1d for a future subwoofer install that I haven't decided on yet.
My plan is to run the rear speakers off of the factory Sony amp signal so there's no need for aftermarket amplification there (hence the LC2i rather than one of the processors with 4 or more channels of output).

My plan is to run the front door and tweeter signals out of the Sony amp into the JL SSI to combine their signals. I'll leave the rear outs from the Sony amp alone. From there I'll run the SSI into the LC2i which will hopefully give me a full range signal out into 2 channels via RCA's. Those two main channels will run from the LC2i to the JX360/2 and then from the JX360/2 out to the passive crossovers for the front components. The LC2i also has a subwoofer out in the way of two extra RCA outs which I'll send to the JX1000/1d.

I'm hoping that the above will provide me with a clean, clear system and with the eventual addition of a subwoofer or two, a complete sound range. I noticed in my research that a lot of similar systems opt to use a more involved processor like the CleanSweep or Audio Control LCQ1. I'm trying to retain ALL of the function of the factory navigation/head unit, IE: volume control, fading, Sync functions, etc... From what I've seen the CleanSweep is kind of a waste if you don't use the supplied volume **** because it processes the signal from the HU at a single set output range. I'm not interested in using an alternate volume **** as I want to retain the steering wheel controls and volume control from the HU itself. As for the LCQ1, I'm not opposed completely to using one, but if I don't need it, I'd rather not. I'm not looking for competition type sound quality, I just want a good clean, loud system. I'm hoping the AccuBass feature on the LC2i will be enough to regulate the Bass roll off that the factory system employs and the remaining factory DSP will still sound acceptable. Any input or experiences with similar attempts would be much appreciated.

This ain't my first rodeo with aftermarket stereo system installs, but it is my first time messing with the Ford/Sony system or factory DSP units. In the past, I've always installed aftermarket heads and then built the system around that; basically eliminating the entire factory system. Obviously with this set up, I'll be blending aftermarket with factory systems and anytime you do that, you open yourself up to Darwinisms... So if I can learn form those that have already been there and done that, I'd love to save myself the time and effort.

Any tips for wiring, adjusting or integrating this project would be greatly appreciated. Just FYI, for the subwoofers, I'm leaning toward a custom box with two forward facing 8" subs but I'm not dead set on that plan, so if anyone wants to talk me into or out of it I'm all ears.

 

Try using the LC2i on the sub output and run a 6i for your front mids and tweets and rear doors. The accubass feature on the 2i will fix the bass roll off before you go to the sub, and the 6i will handle the rest. And all the factory stuff still works just like before, volume, fader, balance, and sync. You can pick up an LC6i for about a buck 20 new. And since the 6i will sum signals, you can ditch the JL SSI, because you wont need it.

Be warned adding onto the factory sony system like you are planning and like I did will add to the boot up time before you actually hear anything coming out of the speakers. Mine has about a 6 or 7 second delay above and beyond the factory delay of the My Ford Touch/sony system, but I'm running thru 3 stages of audiocontrol processors in series then to the amps. If you run one stage and then reamp you delay should be less.

BTW the factory sony amp is under the center console towards the front and on the right side, directly under the cupholders by the shifter. You have to pull the entire console to access it.

 

Why would I need both the LC2i and the LC6i? The 2i actually has two sets of RCA outs, one full range and one sub set, so it alone would accomplish what I want to do which is run 2 channels of full range and 1 channel of lows only. The JX360/2 also has a set of pre-amp outputs that I could signal the sub amp with as well, so between the two I have the signal to the sub covered.

Since I already have the SSI, I'd rather not spend the money on the LC6i unless it's a must. If you think it is, please let me know why you suggest it. If the LC2i will do everything I need it to do behind the SSI, I have no use for the LC6i right? I realize that if I didn't have the SSI already, the LC6i would have accomplished both missions of LOC and SSI, but I was advised by an experienced installer that the Sony amp sometimes plays fits when there is no or not enough load sensed at its output. I have found more than a few posts between the 4 forums I've been researching stating that the LC6i didn't apply enough load on the Sony amp to stop it from muting the output. The SSI applies a 4 ohm load to the speaker outputs on the Sony amp, so that's why it was suggested to me. Maybe I got bad info or misunderstood it? The installer that suggested the SSI said that in his experience, the load problems don't always appear right away so it's hard to trouble shoot once you get it all up and running and then later down the line experience the muting issues.

I appreciate your advice and I'm not trying to debate it with you, just looking to learn as much as I can from others experiences.

 

I just figured you could save some coin by not using the SSI, I don't how much you spent on it but I imagine it wasn't cheap. I never heard of the muting issue you been told about, I don't know if I've been lucky or they were just blowing smoke up your rear to get you to buy the more expensive JL SSI. As I said in another thread, I've been running my setup for over a year, problem free, no muting or anything else.

 

I bought the SSI for $95 and the LC2i for $75, both off of E-bay, so I'm not that deep into either of them. The installer that provided that information wasn't getting any money out of me, he was an installer from another forum. He did mention that the problem seems to be hit or miss, I guess maybe some Sony systems are more finicky than others? I did read it more than once though, however its hard to say whether the second and third people that posted it were just regurgitating the initial installers post.

Either way, I initially intended to go the route you did, actually I read one of your threads and that was what made me want to go that route. I changed my mind after reading the comment about the load issues and bought the SSI and LC2i about a week ago. Your thread was one of the first one's I read when I started researching my system and I greatly appreciate and respect your input.

Off topic, do you think the external DSP / EQ is needed with these factory head units? I know you have a pretty in depth processing and EQ set up, but I thought I read that you posted in hind sight that you might not have gone that route after your experience. I thought about buying an LCQ1 after I read your thread, but I don't know if it would be over kill for me since I'm not even sure I'd be able to adjust it properly to get value out of it. Did you find it difficult to narrow down the settings to an acceptable range for all types of music and listening levels? I listen to EVERYTHING, literally. From talk radio to classic rock, metal, pop and even some hip-hop and rap.

 

Since I went with an LC8i, it does not have accubass, so I had to add the EQX to try to fix the bass roll off somewhat. Knowing what I know now, I could have just used an LC7i and used the built in accubass to fix the roll off. Since my setup boosts the low end (and everything else) all the time, so I had to adjust it so it sounds good at low volumes, and use the bass boost **** to punch up the bass at higher volumes. It took me about a week of adjusting and listening to various music at varying volume levels then adjust some more until I found a sound I liked.

 

Gotcha. Once again man, thank you very much for all your help. Your posts have been some of the most helpful and informative I've found so far.

 

I too also just installed an lc7i. I lost my fade function due to connecting the front tweeter/mids and sub output but I'm fine with that. And so far the sound seems to be fine for my liking. In my opinion it was a pretty good investment. Good luck with the install, for me I didn't find it too difficult seeing as I've installed a system or two in the past.

 

It's mostly done at this point. I'm still fine tuning, experimenting and changing minor things, but the major portions of the install took about a day and a half. I'm still debating on what subwoofer set up I want to go with. I originally planned on a dual 8" Sundown Audio shallow set up which would allow me to build a box that also permitted me some storage space. I've grown very attached to the Ford Accessories storage bin that fits under the driver side of my rear seat and while I know I'm going to have to ditch it, I'm hoping I can come with an enclosure design that will allow me to integrate some sort of storage area to replace it.
Anyway, here are some pics of the progress.

Truck gutted, new door speakers installed.


Measuring out the rear wall for the amp racks, distribution block and LC2i.



The wiring of the JL CleanSweap SSi has begun...






Almost finished with the SSI. The wires were all soldered, heat sealed and then loomed. I used Stinger Speedwire which is ABSOLUTELY AWESOME! The 9 wire speed cable is so easy to use and makes running the wires back and forth between the SSI, LC2i and back to the factory speaker wire a piece of cake! Speaking of that, I did decide to use the factory speaker wire for the door speakers and tweets. It made the project much easier, less time consuming and I didn't have to deal with the Molex connectors in the doors. At just over 90 watts a channel (split by the component sets passive crossover) the factory wire will have no problem delivering the goods to the new speakers. If you decide to do it this way, get yourself some Speed Cable and make sure you cut the factory capacitor out of the inline positive wire leading to your factory tweets. They're about a foot from the tweeter, before the factory connector in the dash.


Here's the amp layout with the 4 gauge power wire and RCA cables beginning the routing. Once I get it all where I want it, the factory carpeted cover was cut out and replaced temporarily until I decide what I'm doing for a subwoofer. Once that's all figured out, I'll clean up the factory cover and sew over the edges to make it look factory.

 

I'll get some pictures of the new tweeters in place as soon as I get a chance. They're a pretty straight forward install. Just pull the A-pillars off and unscrew the tweeter brackets from behind. The silver mesh just falls right out and I used a set of the brackets that came with the Infinity component set to fit the new tweeters into the factory holes. One thin I will say is that Infinity supplies a literal butt ton of different brackets and adapters to make your install fit just about anywhere. The possibilities are quite, well... Infinite.... ;-) I used some high quality black hot glue to secure the brackets to the back of the A-pillar and seal the edges to keep it looking factory and ran the wires down to the factory connectors which I reused.

I did run the factory tweeters for a little while and I gotta say it sounded TERRIBLE... I don't know if it was because the resistance was off for the Infinity passive crossovers or if the factory tweets were just washing out, but it made the entire system sound out of phase; as if a speaker was wire backwards. I was beginning to become really concerned that I mixed up a wire somewhere (which I quadruple checked before completing), but thankfully once I replaced the factory tweets with the Infinity component tweets the sound quality increased exponentially. It sounds amazing now, even with the factory sub still hooked up, it sounds great. From what I've read in my research, the factory sub signal going into the amp causes the factory amp signal to clip at a very early volume level. Some professional installers have taken the guess work out of that with professional sound analyzing equipment and they determined that unhooking the factory sub feed to the factory amp, eliminates the clipping and actually makes the factory amp provide a clean output level all the way to almost full volume on the factory head unit. So with that in mine, once I get the new subwoofer figured out, I'll take the console back out and disconnect the sub input form the amp and hopefully it will sound even better. I can't wait to fill out the sound profile with a good set of subs. The factory amp is supplying plenty of power for the rear Infinity door speakers and I didn't bother with the center at all yet; I may just unhook it all together if it starts to sound muddy after its all done. I adjusted everything to hit ideal voltage sensitivity at about 3/4 volume so after I pull the factor sub input there should be no clipping at all.
Once I get the sub figured out and built/installed I'll update with some more pics.