Well Im starting my build in a FX4 SCREW with basic stereo with sync. I already did some Dynamat on the back wall and rear floor with Dynaliner over that. I ended up covering the passenger vent with the matting and left the other open. Cut down on the exhaust noise. I also already ran the power, ground and remote. No pictures of the install thus far but will be uploading them as I go along. Below is my list of equipment.

Stock HU
Metra-5520
Audio Control LC6i
JL Audio XD400/4
JL Audio XD600/1
Polk DXi570 x 4 (probably going to upgrade to components in the future)
Alpine SWR-T10 slim sub
Kicker PKD1 1/0 AWG wiring kit
Metra Speed Conductor 9 wire

Going to building an amp rack and custom enclosure

Been about 10 years since the last time I built a system and a lot has changed, so Im taking my time and will probably have some questions.

I want to thank Langlowe and Fritzz for the help they have already given.

First question I already posted in a different thread
https://www.f150online.com/forums/he...ness-help.html
Its a question on which wires to remove from the BT-5520 bluetooth wires.

 

Looking forward to seeing your finished product.

Check your bt-5520 thread also.

 

Well yesterday I braved the heat and sun, ended up getting little burnt but I got the beginning of the amp rack built. That was a process, but its coming together. Coupe of places it didnt turn out the way I wanted, but I think I can mask most of it once the carpet gets installed. Im making covers for the window motor, seat belt and other various pieces that are currently uncovered. Im going to attach them all with Velcro so they can be removed prior to removing the board. When its all said and done should look like a solid wall but still have access to all the serviceable items if needed. Seat folds up and down without any binding, amps will fit at the bottom and sound processor will be behind there as well, havent decided on where yet.

For all those who carpeted their rack/boxes where did you get the carpet from? I found a bunch online but they hesitant to order it since I need certain sizes. I found some at a local fabric store thats un-backed and sold as felt. Is the auto version flame resistant? The one thing I saw on the stuff from the fabric store says flammable, so I was hesitant to put amps on it. Would be fine for a box though.

 

Sorry for the double post not sure what happened

 

I have been going back an forth between the SWR-T10 or the T12 for my '10 Screw so I would like your opinion of SQ with the 10 once you have it installed. Please post some pics of your sub install once completed.

 

For carpet check you local auto parts store, Autozone, Pepboys, ORileys.

They have basic black unbacked carpet for around $10. I have used the stuff from Autozone and it works well.

Not sure about fireproof or not but if your amps get hot enought to catch the carpet on fire then you have other problems on your hands.

 

Subscribed!

 

Worked on the amp wall a little more, finished what I can on it for now. Im still waiting on parts, oh the never ending wait!!! I went local shop so I wouldn't have to wait, here I am almost 2 weeks later, WAITING!!! Luckily the last amp comes in tomorrow and just need to get a fused distribution block, some carpet, wires, odd and end and hopefully have everything I need to really hit it hard for my weekend (which doesnt start until sunday for me).

I also started the sub box today. I used info from Langlowe and Fritzz to get rough ideas. Im using all 3/4 mdf and building it to the optimal recommended size for the type R 10 in with is .41. Right now the box comes out to .42, atleast on paper. After starting the box build Im kinda kicking myself for not going with the 12, but figure if 1 10 isnt enough I can always upgrade later. Sorry the pictures arent all that much to look at, didnt get a lot done in the two hours I had this morning before work.

 

Todays progress, while not huge, makes me feel better because I can see the progress. Finally got my amp in after almost two weeks. JL audio was on summer vacation the week of july 4th so no orders were filled. Also was able to pick up my fused distribution block. Today all I did was try and figure out my layout. I like the way its looking and think cable routing will be pretty easy. The only concern I have is clearance issues with the top amplifier. When the seats in the seated down position noting touches. If I put the seat up, the top amplifier has 1.5 inches all the way down to 0 inches of clearance. The easiest fix for this is either move the amp to the other side of the board, but then cable routing isnt as clean and the power wire gets close to the rca and speaker wire. Also if I unlatch the seat it gives me a little more space. First set of pictures is the amps behind the seatwhile down, then up. Any suggestions if that should be ok or not, or better mounting spots, etc. Im rarely going to have my 40% bench up as my subs going under there, but every now and then I may have to. I wanted to keep the amps away from the 60 as I flip that up all the time for the dogs, grocery store, fishing etc, i know random.

Hoping tomorrow after work to get everything wired up and atleast the door speakers running. I still need to finish the box. Hopefully everything will be done by monday, well atleast functionally done, still waiting on snap bushings and figuring out my carpet situation.

 

Well my install is finished; I apologize now for not having more pictures to go along with my install. I did all of this over two weeks or so. All said and done about 20 hours of work. It was in the mid 90's every day but one and my driveway gets afternoon sun so needless to say pictures weren’t on my mind when I was doing this. A few days I had to stop because I was so drained I couldn’t remember what was hooked to what, minor heat exhaustion I think.

With that said everything turned on right from the beginning and for not being tuned sounds good. I do have a couple of nagging issues that need to be solved, one I think I need to sand down my grounding point as I have a little bit of alternator whine, i didn’t even notice it until I paused some music while driving and I can hear it as a low sound in my sub. The other annoying issue is that I hear a clicking (for lack of better term) when I play FM( I assume am too but I don’t listen to it), but not when I play other sources. Could just be crappy radio etc and before the speakers were amped couldn’t hear it and now it’s being exacerbated, I don’t know, I’m stumped on that one. Any suggestions?

As far as the set up, I’m running stock HU with Metra Speedwire to the LC6i, Kicker IX series RCA to JL xd600 and xd400, with Metra Speedwire feeding from the xd400 back to the Metra harness. I didn’t run new speaker wire to the doors as I have the dreaded Molex connecters. If I upgrade to full components and grow a bigger pair I’ll drill through but I’m not really ecstatic about the idea. The sub is an Alpine SWR-T10 being fed 400 watts RMS at 4 ohm by the xd600/1. The xd600 runs nice and cool, the xd400 gets a little bit warmer but still both are able to be touched with just a little bit of heat felt on the amp itself. I am very happy with the amps. One nice thing with the LC6i, I didn’t need a remote wire. I have had 0 issues with using the auto sense on it. I’ve turned it down to 1 bar on the radio I’ve used sync and made phone calls etc, no problems with it turning off. I did run a remote just in case I needed it to fuse 38 (2011) but never plugged it in. All of the power is coming from a Kicker 0/1 AWG dual amp kit. I used 0 AWG to a JL fuse distro block then 4 AWG to each amp. I grounded all of it on the seat belt bolt on the back wall. I ran power down the passenger side and around the back wall on the floor. All RCA and speaker wire are run down drivers side and along the top of the wall.

Unfortunately I’m going to have to put off the tuning and fixing the annoyances for a week while I’m out of town.

Now on to some pictures
Sub box up under the seat. I think I may shave the height down about .25-.5 inches as my 40% split seat sits slightly higher than the 60, otherwise it tucks up almost completely under the seat, with it being black carpet on the floor and box you would never even know it was there looking into the back. I made it to a calculated size of .42 cu ft. Alpine recommends .41 as optimal. I have at a min 1 inch from the magnet pole vent to the top of the box.


Here is my LC6i, I put it behind the 60 split since its thinner than the amps and I put that portion of my seat up on a regular basis.


Here are the two xd amps. Still need to install the cable ties to the board to make the power cables lay flat. The seats fold up and down and have no clearance issues at all. When the 40 is folded up it does touch the top amp a little on the bottom so I probably won’t fold it up much, plus the sub is under that seat.



Here’s the whole back wall with the amp rack installed. I really wanted it to be a nice clean uniform look, even though it’s not seen I didn’t want to leave the motor and seat belt attachment uncovered. I made custom covers for these then used industrial Velcro to attach them. This way if I need to get to them all I do is pull them off and I have full access. I do need to make some thinner covers still for the top left and right. I had to chop them off from the original design as it made it almost impossible to release the seat back. I have some .25 mdf and plan on making small covers in a week or two when I get back.


All in all very happy with the components I choose, has tons more volume and quality over the stock. I can’t even turn it up 1/2 before it’s too loud. The sub has good SQ, won’t win an SPL competition with it, but it wasn’t meant to.

I’d be happy to answer any questions anyone might have on this install. It was my first one in a long time, but it was definitely worth it.

 

Looks great amigo!

U are using the same LC6i and JL amps. I have a JL xd700/5. do you have any static pop when you press the power button on/off?

and eff...i wish i got a fricken crew cab.

 

Looking good man, i know how you feel about taking a lack of pictures due to the heat otherwise i would have had way more myself, also that sucks that you have those molex connectors. that was one reason i decided i wanted to run all new wire was because i luckily didnt have those. I also replied to your email, sent it to your yahoo account, sorry i didnt reply sooner i have been working alot and hadnt checked it in a few days.

 

Looks really nice. I forgot just how small those XD amps really are.

There is a simple fix for the sub box sitting a little high.

Sit in the back seat for a while and bounce a little. I am a pretty big boy and with a little weight the capet pad will sink a bit. Makes for a really nice fit.

In fact I had made mine to fit before the pressure sit and I ended up using nail in plastic caps made for the bottom of chairs.

 

Yeah I get a little pop in the sub when I turn it off. I saw you were going to try a different remote, any luck? I mean I can deal with the pop if I have to. I wonder if its the LC6i or the JL amp. I dont have any other amp to test the theory out.

 

I got you email thank you. Yeah I was bummed that I had the molex connectors, at some point Ill probably man up and just drill them, or I may mount the tweeters in the a pillar with the stock pods and just splice into the speaker wire at the door. I dunno, im not too concerned right now as the sounds is so much better than stock. Im sure Ill change my mind in a few months though. Yeah this heat is brutal, one day I think i went through about 3 shirts and atleast 3 gallons of water.