Using the Factory Sub Wiring Harness??
#1
Using the Factory Sub Wiring Harness??
Ok, I've learned a pretty good bit about what needs to be done to get my system running, but this is one thing that I'm just not certian on. I have a 2006 F150 FX4 that does have the factory sub harness wire under the rear seat. My stereo is the audiophile 6 disc changer. Here is my situation, I put links to the devices so you all can see exactly what I'm dealing with...
I'm installing four Infinity Reference 6812cf door speakers and would like to run 56 watts to each one of them and I'm installing an Infinity Perfect 10.1 in a Q-Logic box under my rear driver side seat where the factory sub harness is located and I would like to run 287 watts to this sub. I'm going to us a 6-Channel Infinity Reference 5761a Amplifer in 5-Channel mode to accomplish these watt readings. Here is my question....
Because I don't want to change my head unit and it doesn't have the RCA input can I use this 4-Channel line output converter for the four door speakers and use the factory sub wiring harness with another line output converter for the sub?
After everything that I've researched, read about, and asked in here this honestly seems the only option that I can come up with. I've read some stuff about splicing into the wires for the door speakers to power them, but that doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Plus, where would I put the line output converter to begin with because the front door speaker wires aren't gonna go all the way to the back where I would have the amplifer? I would just say the hell with it and take it to a shop and have them install it, (and in the end I may do that anyway because I'm obviously not qualified to do this by myself) but even then I want to tell them exactly how I want them to do it because I'm compulsive about things being clean and I want this install to be very clean. Plus I just want to know how all of this stuff works and exactly how my system is running. I know that it will probably cost like $200-$250 to have a shop do this install, but as long as it's done correctly and clean that's ok with me.
Ok, that's my situation, I know that it's long and drawn out, but I wanted to give all of the information that I possibly could. Thank you ahead of time for any help! I would love any suggestions and other ideas how to pull off this install in a clean way. I may be totally off base with my ideas and that's fine, but any help would be much appreciated.
I'm installing four Infinity Reference 6812cf door speakers and would like to run 56 watts to each one of them and I'm installing an Infinity Perfect 10.1 in a Q-Logic box under my rear driver side seat where the factory sub harness is located and I would like to run 287 watts to this sub. I'm going to us a 6-Channel Infinity Reference 5761a Amplifer in 5-Channel mode to accomplish these watt readings. Here is my question....
Because I don't want to change my head unit and it doesn't have the RCA input can I use this 4-Channel line output converter for the four door speakers and use the factory sub wiring harness with another line output converter for the sub?
After everything that I've researched, read about, and asked in here this honestly seems the only option that I can come up with. I've read some stuff about splicing into the wires for the door speakers to power them, but that doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Plus, where would I put the line output converter to begin with because the front door speaker wires aren't gonna go all the way to the back where I would have the amplifer? I would just say the hell with it and take it to a shop and have them install it, (and in the end I may do that anyway because I'm obviously not qualified to do this by myself) but even then I want to tell them exactly how I want them to do it because I'm compulsive about things being clean and I want this install to be very clean. Plus I just want to know how all of this stuff works and exactly how my system is running. I know that it will probably cost like $200-$250 to have a shop do this install, but as long as it's done correctly and clean that's ok with me.
Ok, that's my situation, I know that it's long and drawn out, but I wanted to give all of the information that I possibly could. Thank you ahead of time for any help! I would love any suggestions and other ideas how to pull off this install in a clean way. I may be totally off base with my ideas and that's fine, but any help would be much appreciated.
#2
I am not sure about using the sub wiring harness but, according to the manual for that amp, you can set it to send a signal to the sub using the front and rear inputs. Page 5 of the manual. I would say you would loose the ability to adjust the sub from the head unit but, using the factory head unit, you will not have any sub adjustment anyway. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The factory deck may have a sub adjustment.
#3
Originally Posted by dconder
I am not sure about using the sub wiring harness but, according to the manual for that amp, you can set it to send a signal to the sub using the front and rear inputs. Page 5 of the manual. I would say you would loose the ability to adjust the sub from the head unit but, using the factory head unit, you will not have any sub adjustment anyway. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The factory deck may have a sub adjustment.
I know that this stuff is childs play for many of you in here and I really do appreciate all of your help dconder. I've searched the forums and read up on all this, but I want to have a perfect game plan drawn out and really understand all of this stuff before I dive into something that is too much for me. I already have the amp and speakers, but I'm just not going near this until I know what is going on exactly. Thanks again!
Last edited by TheArcher; 07-14-2006 at 12:43 PM.
#4
If you buy a 4 channel line out convertor, you hook it up to the speaker outputs on the deck and then run rca cables from there to your amp. You then have to run speaker wires from the amp to the speakers or back to factory speaker wires at the head unit. I do not know of any adapters as of yet that will allow you to keep the factory head unit without simply cutting the wires. PAC makes some for GM vehicles but, I do not know if anyone makes one for the head unit you have. Basically you will cut the 8 wires that run the front and rear speakers, hook the ones coming from the head unit to the LOC and hook the others up to speaker wire out of the amp. Unless you run new speaker wire from the amp straight to the speakers. I also noticed that the amp allows for a remote level adjustment. But, if you have no need to adjust the sub level, you do not need to worry about it. I hope all that makes sense.
#5
Originally Posted by dconder
If you buy a 4 channel line out convertor, you hook it up to the speaker outputs on the deck and then run rca cables from there to your amp. You then have to run speaker wires from the amp to the speakers or back to factory speaker wires at the head unit. I do not know of any adapters as of yet that will allow you to keep the factory head unit without simply cutting the wires. PAC makes some for GM vehicles but, I do not know if anyone makes one for the head unit you have. Basically you will cut the 8 wires that run the front and rear speakers, hook the ones coming from the head unit to the LOC and hook the others up to speaker wire out of the amp. Unless you run new speaker wire from the amp straight to the speakers. I also noticed that the amp allows for a remote level adjustment. But, if you have no need to adjust the sub level, you do not need to worry about it. I hope all that makes sense.
Lastly, I hope, I'm sure that my d@mn head unit doesn't have a remote turn on connection and the amplifer manual says to hook it up to the vehicles accessory circuit. How big of a pain in the @ss is that? I think that is about every question that I could possibly ask, I'm sorry for being a pain, but I've got to learn this stuff somehow. Thanks again!
Last edited by TheArcher; 07-14-2006 at 11:18 PM.
#6
I have an 05 SuperCrew and there is tons of room behind the head unit. When I had my Kenwood setup, I had a processor and Sirius unit back there with still tons of room. You could install amps in there even.
You can probably find a wiring diagram somewhere on this site that tells you which wires and there is a remote wire in there you can use. I know I am using a remote wire from the factory harness I just do not remember which one it is.
You can probably find a wiring diagram somewhere on this site that tells you which wires and there is a remote wire in there you can use. I know I am using a remote wire from the factory harness I just do not remember which one it is.
#7
Awesome! Thanks dconder, I've searched the site for a wiring diagram, but I haven't found one. No big deal, I can get one at some point. Now that remote wire that is going into the head unit will be tiny, isn't the one that I run to my amp supposed to be lower gauge? Would this involve some splicing and some adapters too?
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#8
Send me an e-mail at jmpancoast@juno.com and I will reply with a wiring diagram for the Ford premium radio and sub.
#9
Originally Posted by jmpancoast
Send me an e-mail at jmpancoast@juno.com and I will reply with a wiring diagram for the Ford premium radio and sub.
#11
#13
Originally Posted by jmpancoast
I just e-mailed you another diagram which should help.
Thanks again for your help...
#14
When I made the harness for my sub hook-up, I had two diagrams to work from. One said to use the wire labeled (3) above for the remote turn-on, the other said use the wire above labeled (4). Number (4) was the wire that worked for me and should be correct for you. Just mentioned both since there was a discrepancy between the two diagrams.
Last edited by jmpancoast; 07-17-2006 at 06:44 AM.
#15
Originally Posted by jmpancoast
When I made the harness for my sub hook-up, I had two diagrams to work from. One said to use the wire labeled (3) above for the remote turn-on, the other said use the wire above labeled (4). Number (4) was the wire that worked for me and should be correct for you. Just mentioned both since there was a discrepancy between the two diagrams.