Rxcd Herb's Washers..Now What???
#1
Rxcd Herb's Washers..Now What???
received herb's washers in mail. nice quality. very impressed. now what to do?
q1. are there pictures of the area of the truck where these washers fix the clunk problem? i'd like to know where these washers are going to be installed. pictures about this problem/install would help me in understanding it all.
q2. is there anything else that needs to be installed along with these washers? description and part numbers please.
q3. link to TSBs for the clunk problem?
q4. where do i get them installed? dealership or goodyear autowhiz, alignment shop? $$$?
q5. if i bring TSBs to ford dealer, will they install the washers and other parts needed to fix this problem at no charge? $$$$?
sorry for the blast of questions but wanted to learn how everyone else who didn't do it themselves approached this thing.
thanks.
q1. are there pictures of the area of the truck where these washers fix the clunk problem? i'd like to know where these washers are going to be installed. pictures about this problem/install would help me in understanding it all.
q2. is there anything else that needs to be installed along with these washers? description and part numbers please.
q3. link to TSBs for the clunk problem?
q4. where do i get them installed? dealership or goodyear autowhiz, alignment shop? $$$?
q5. if i bring TSBs to ford dealer, will they install the washers and other parts needed to fix this problem at no charge? $$$$?
sorry for the blast of questions but wanted to learn how everyone else who didn't do it themselves approached this thing.
thanks.
#3
runpr,
Check out my replies over on NLOC.net
Should answer all your questions.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...9&pagenumber=1
Check out my replies over on NLOC.net
Should answer all your questions.
http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...9&pagenumber=1
#4
Just have the alignment shop do it, it should'nt cost much. The set only goes on the drivers side. They go in the a arm slots that are oval shaped. These slots are oval so that the castor can be set. Castor is whats called the "lead" in the alignment process. The lead compensates for the crown in most roads. Takes about 30 seconds to install. Ford did it this way cause its cheaper, but the bolt tends to slide a bit(the clunk problem), and the washers lock the bolt in place. Have the alignment shop install a cambolt set, then all the alignment including the castor is done from the top. The clunk tends to occur for example when you are turning around with the wheels turned sharply. Use the search, with the keyword "clunk". There has been a lot of talk about this well documented problem
Last edited by cabraco; 04-19-2002 at 05:22 PM.
#5
#6
#7
Originally posted by cabraco
Just have the alignment shop do it, it should'nt cost much. The set only goes on the drivers side. They go in the a arm slots that are oval shaped. These slots are oval so that the castor can be set. Castor is whats called the "lead" in the alignment process. The lead compensates for the crown in most roads. Takes about 30 seconds to install. Ford did it this way cause its cheaper, but the bolt tends to slide a bit(the clunk problem), and the washers lock the bolt in place. Have the alignment shop install a cambolt set, then all the alignment including the castor is done from the top. The clunk tends to occur for example when you are turning around with the wheels turned sharply. Use the search, with the keyword "clunk". There has been a lot of talk about this well documented problem
Just have the alignment shop do it, it should'nt cost much. The set only goes on the drivers side. They go in the a arm slots that are oval shaped. These slots are oval so that the castor can be set. Castor is whats called the "lead" in the alignment process. The lead compensates for the crown in most roads. Takes about 30 seconds to install. Ford did it this way cause its cheaper, but the bolt tends to slide a bit(the clunk problem), and the washers lock the bolt in place. Have the alignment shop install a cambolt set, then all the alignment including the castor is done from the top. The clunk tends to occur for example when you are turning around with the wheels turned sharply. Use the search, with the keyword "clunk". There has been a lot of talk about this well documented problem
you lost me when you starting talking about castor??? what is this??? is a part, process, fix, component????
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#8
There are basically 3 parts of the alignment. Camber, caster, and toe in.Caster is how much ahead one wheel is to the other or "lead"(this compensates for the crown in the road), Camber, which is how flat the surface of the tire is on the road, and toe in, which is how much the tires tip in towards each other. The castor adjustment on the stock set up is done with the bolt adjustment in the a arm. By installing the cambolt set up(available at most alignment shops)and using herbs washers to lock the a arm bolt in place(thereby no longer adjusting the caster with the lower a arm bolt) all the adjustments can be done from the top, and in the process the a arm bolt no longer slips and the clunk is fixed. Print this out and go talk to an alignment shop. They will understand right away. If they don't, go elsewhere.
#9
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#12
runpr:
check Herb's forum at NLOC, he can probably answer your Q's
http://www.nloc.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?forumid=450
never mind, it's already there
check Herb's forum at NLOC, he can probably answer your Q's
http://www.nloc.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?forumid=450
never mind, it's already there
#14
#15
save yourself a buck or two.
Here is where the washers go (one on each side)
floor jack and one jack stand on the driver's side.
remove left front wheel.
loosen the rear bolt on the drivers side lower control arm
use just enought pressure from the floor jack to take tension off bolt. remove bolt, insert washers. One on each side.
Tighten the shizznit out of the bolt.
reinstall wheel, snug lugnuts.
remove jack stand and lower vehicle
tighten lugnuts.
Buy me a beer at WFC....
Bob
Here is where the washers go (one on each side)
floor jack and one jack stand on the driver's side.
remove left front wheel.
loosen the rear bolt on the drivers side lower control arm
use just enought pressure from the floor jack to take tension off bolt. remove bolt, insert washers. One on each side.
Tighten the shizznit out of the bolt.
reinstall wheel, snug lugnuts.
remove jack stand and lower vehicle
tighten lugnuts.
Buy me a beer at WFC....
Bob