Thinking about getting this with an AN-10 connection, has anybody connected this to a 93-2003 F-150 ???how do you adapt it the ford trans cooler lines??
My transmission rebuild is making progress, i had to wait for a new planetary and direct drum, they were fused together.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Row-10-An...VUwn5t&vxp=mtr

 

I think they are usually hooked up with hoses and hose fittings. If the trans cooler lines are flared, just push the hose over the end and clamp. There are hoses made especially for trans fluids.

What is wrong with the stock cooler? Unless you are doing very heavy towing or off roading, you probably don't need one that large.

 

I need to replace the stock one as a precaution because it could have chips of metal from the shattered bearing, sun gear teeth, planetary gear teeth. scrapings from the inside of the case. the magnet looked like hell in the pan.

 

Someone suggested a Super Duty trans cooler when I was saying my trans was getting hot driving on the beach in the sand. If I drive faster than about 10mph, my trans will get hot enough to smell the fluid. Since then, I've only been driving 10mph.

 

The stock cooler in the radiator is usually a coil.
Yes it could lodge metal in it.
Either hot back flush with cleaner under pressure of invest in a new radiator at not much more in total cost of an outside unit.
There is a benefit to the cooler in the radiator.
It heats the trans fluid at the rate of engine heat build.
This allows the trans to engage OD much quicker than an unheated cooler would allow in cold weather temperatures.
The trans valve body has a temperature sensor that will only allow OD after is senses the temp rise to about 98-100 degrees.
You stand to prolong this with only an outside cooler.
System operation integrations and designs are done for a purpose.
Good luck.

 

I assumed his truck had the additional cooler in series with the radiator cooler. But, it isn't clear in the post. Yes, I would always hook the separate cooler in series with the radiator. That way it also helps cool the engine. That is the way I've always seen it done until I bought my 2005 Dodge Magnum Hemi that has a trans cooler that is separate from the radiator. The German way I suppose. The Magnum, Charger, and Chrysler 300 came about when Daimler Benz owned Chrysler and the car's platform, trans, and rear diff and independent rear suspension are Mercedes Benz.

 

I don't see how the trans cooler will have much or any affect on engine temp regardless of being inline with the radiator-section cooler or not. I do whole-heartedly agree, though, that the radiator cooler must also be used for the reasons mentioned above (actually *warming* the fluid faster).

I installed an F250 cooler on my 99 (replacing the stock external one) for better cooling while towing. I simply cut the existing hard lines, flared the ends a bit, then double-clamped the rubber hose over the ends.

Andy

 

I installed a large separate trans cooler on my 95 Mark VIII Lincoln in series with the radiator internal trans cooler and the temp gauge that normally stayed mid-scale aferwards ran a little below mid-scale. It makes sense that it would help cool the engine too because it is removing heat that would have had to be removed by the radiator.

 

Does anybody know what size fittings I would ended to go to if the aftermarket cooler comes with 10-AN? I know that's quite large and it may need to step down to 3/8 line. Thanks in advance.

 

Rule is; to never reduce the 'return line' in diameter at any point in the length either by hose size or fitting inside diameter..
Doing so reduces the flow volume and cooing ability of the fluid flow.
The fluid returns into the side of the transmission and must do some parts lubricating before it falls back into the pan.
Use a cooler rated for combined weight rating such as 20,000 lbs with flow equal to or greater than existing lines on the truck.
The average temperature drop I have measured between the top and bottom of the radiator is close to 40 degrees.
Temp drop across the aux cooler is close to the same under fully hot operating conditions of fan running on the radiator and aux cooler in front of the A/C condenser.
As well on my setup I have an 8' fan dedicated to the Aux cooler under full time thermostat control sensing temp at the radiator cooler transmission inlet line (top line).
The Aux cooler is 8 x 10" stack plate type.
The Aux fan does a second function of ventilating the engine bay after shut down limiting the under hood temp to no more than about 215 +/- degrees.
This has saved coil failures and rubber and hose parts failures over the long time frame.
In hot summer temps the fan will run some 5 to 8 minutes after engine shut down.
More than you might want to know or do but this was all done for towing at over 12,000 lbs gross combined weights so the cooler would have more cooling at reduced road speed during towing when the fluid temp rose above the thermostat setting of about 190, other wise the fan never runs under normal cruise operation where the converter outlet temp runs at less than 150 degrees.
The transmission pan is a deep custom alum extra capacity.
Honestly, the larger pan does little for cooing but holds extra fluid in case of a slow leak developing.
Reason is the pan volume heats to the same average temperature except for the small extra cooling due to the larger surface area and air flow over it.
Bottom line is don't just hook up parts without some thought to what the base min. requirement needs to be.
Good luck.

 

As long as the return line isn't smaller than the inlet line, it should be okay shouldn't it? If true, the fitting size on the inlet and outlet can be reduced to fit the OE cooler line?

 

YES.. OK as long as the flow volume is not reduced because that is wahat takes away the heat and does the lubing.
Good luck.

 

i did this also, works great!!