I have the 5.0 in my 94 f150 4x4 and with what little bit I have done to it, its a beast. I know there's mustang hatchbacks with the H.O. version that can put out way more but I am just getting started. I am not after some econo power build or drag setup. I want to kick every last bit of power out of my trucks original block, even if I have to put sleeves in it. I also want to run at least 110 octane. The only problem is the setup has to be able to handle a rough 1000 mile run. If any one has any tips please post them and please no crap about what I want to do.

 

The sky's the limit. Small blocks can make huge power with the right builds and power adders, but in your case your tolerance of reliability will probably be the deciding factor.

I'd suggest researching various sources for 302 builds. There is very little different in the car and truck engines other than the intake systems and cams. As a matter of fact, some things like heads were used on the trucks before the cars.

There would be little if any reason to run 110 octane on a vehicle that you want to be reliable for 1000+ miles at a time. You can run various blowers and higher compression engines all on pump gas with octanes of 93 and less.

Personally my first suggestion is to be wary of high revving engines with torque curves up high in the rev range. Though they are great for the drag strip or track with lighter cars, trucks demand more torque down lower in the revs to remain truck worthy engines.


What exactly do you want to do with the truck, and what is your budget?

 

Stroke it to 347. These trucks need torque. If I had it all to do again, I would have had it stroked, or not done the engine job at all. Whatever you choose, have fun, and keep us posted on the progress.

 

Stock bottom end will handle 500HP no problem. Forged and stroked, way more. You can go as fast as the wallet will let you.......

 

Roller blocks are notorious for splitting in half.
Earlier blocks, 70ish, are a little thicker and higher nickel content.

500 fwhp seems to be a threshold for 302 blocks.
Stock rod bolts are weak. Go aftermarket there, even on mild build!

Now the 351w (aka 5.8) blocks are significantly stronger.
There are TT and blower engines out there making 750 fwhp.
The only one I ever heard of splitting was exceeding 850 hp at the moment of truth!

Stock 302 crank is too short on stroke to go aftermarket.
When exceeding the 3.0" stroke though, the further you go, the more stress on the crank. True with any engine. Short strokes get less stress, all there is to it.

Lastly, on ANY engine, the better the rotating parts are balanced, the less the chance of any part breaking.

 

Id forget about the 302 and just put a 351 or bigger in it. No matter how much power you may be able to get out of a 302, you can always get more out of a bigger motor.

 

mild bolt-ons bring my 302 to about 360hp. the fastest ive driven is a 550hp supercharged 302 (stock 1991 mustang short block) with careful tuning. thats close to the limit of the block. 347 strokers dyno well over 400 rwhp n/a.

351 will give more, 392 stroker or even 427 small block windsor is possible.

great motor.

 

You could try the "ultimate turbo"...

Get your instructions here:
http://www.gmmodernmuscle.com/forums...er=asc&start=0

This is classic!
So simple I can't believe we don't all build one!

 

I don't have much money right now, but I have to start some place. I want to run Baja with the truck so I have to keep my weight down and the speed high. A bigger motor can work but 302's put out so much I don't think I need to with bigger engines. Unless someone has the engine out of a GT 40 they will give me. Even then I would prefer to keep as much of the original truck as possible. As for fuel I usually run 93 with octane booster just to keep the injectors clean.

 

One thing to realize about octane is: Only run just as much as you need to keep the engine from preignition.
Any more than that is counterproductive and wasted.
Too much octane will hurt fuel economy, power, and emissions.

The gas companys advertise like 'premium' fuel is something special.
It's a sales ploy. They don't tell you that you shouldn't run higher octane than your engine needs.

Octane has absolutely NOTHING to do with keeping anything, including injectors clean.

Octane rating is nothing more than a measure of a fuel's volatility.
The higher the octane, the less volatile the fuel. It doesn't ignite as easily, so hot spots in the chamber won't light it off without the spark plug (preignition).
If you don't need higher octane, your engine won't use the less volatile fuel as easily and effiecently. The result is unburned fuel (wasted) and higher emissions (clogged cats).

Octane booster is another 'snake oil'...
A full bottle of the stuff is expensive, but all it consists of is a relatively cheap paint additive (like xylene), mixed with either diesel or tranny fluid for detergent/lubricant properties.
You can make gallons of the stuff at home for the same money as some 16oz off the shelf boosters.
Also, the small amount you get in the bottle will only raise your octane a point or two. Most folks assume 2 points will make 93 octane into 95 octane.

NOPE!
When the bottle says "2 points" it means your 93 octane could become as high as a whopping 93.2 octane!

 

The place to start is with a SCORE rule book. Decide which class you're going to build for, Class 8 or Stock full and follow the rule book exactly

If you're on a budget (who isn't) spend your money in this order:
1) safety and communications equipment
2) chassis and suspension
3) wheels and tires
4) navigation equipment
5) driveline
6) engine.

Contrary to popular opinion, the engine is the last and least important place to put money into a race vehicle