I did the codes for the fun of it. It only ran total about 20 sconds on starter fluid. Codes i got were (sweeps from my volt meter)


11 then 1 sec pause

1 then 2 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

11 then 2 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

1111 then 4 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

1 then 2 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

11 then 2 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

1111 then 6 sec pause

1 then 2 sec pause

11 then 1 sec pause

1 then 2 sec pause

11 then 2 sec pause

11 stop for good. I removed the key then waiting 20 sec then re tried for trouble codes. Did 10 times always the same. I had the clutch in, everything off, park brake on and in nutrel. What are the codes? Help!!!

 

21, 22, and 24. Take care of those first.

 

Thanks I redid the codes and the last part should of been 22, 22. Looks like codes 21, 22, and 24 for KOEO test.
Getting codes 21 and 24 in KOEO makes sense. The test is intended to be run with the engine warmed up. If the engine is cold (which it is, because it won't start) it would be considered normal to get code 21 (ECT out of self-test range) and code 24 (IAT out of self test range).

Code 22 (MAP/BARO out of self test range) is a potential problem. The MAP sensor should be indicating 100 percent load factor, since there is no manifold vacuum with the engine not running.

Now on to the continuous memory codes.

Code 22 has the same meaning as a continuous memory code as it does as a KOEO code. If your MAP sensor is dead (not oscillating), then it would be reasonable to see a code 22 and the PCM mixture control would have to revert to a guess based on TPS. MAP problems may be the source of your fouled spark plugs and failure to start. MAP pluged in I get no voltage at SIG RTN ( black wire)and 5 volts at MAP PB SIGNAL, ( blue wie)and 4.2 volts at VREF ( orange wire) , test to battery ground. MAP unpluged I get no voltage at SGN RTN, 4.2 volts at MAP BP SIGNAL and 4.5 at the VREF, to battery ground also. Map unpluged I get 4.8 volts from the SIG RTN to VREF. I get 4.8 volts from the SIG RTN to MAP BP SIGNAL. The other two trucks that I matched my voltage to had 2.5 volts at the SIG RTN plugged and unpluged. I read that i need to test the Map with a scope or a volt meter with a RPM frequence. I also need to test the Map plugged in, with vacuum gauge. By adding 20 inches of HG with the volt meter on the MP PB SIGNAL and see if it drops slowly down to 1 volt?
I tested for a short (continuity) between VREF and the MAP signal wire to see if the reference voltage is going over there. 2.5V should be the correct reading for the signal wire with the MAP sensor plugged in. I have the same voltage on the MAP signal wire as I have on the VREF wire when the sensor was unplugged do I have a short? Any other ideas? 1987 Ford f150 4.9 2x4 5 speed manual, will only start with starting fluid, then stall in 5 to 10 secs.

 

Here's what you need to do:

Unplug the MAP sensor.
Disconnect the 60 pin ECM connector.
Set your DVOM on the 200K-ohm scale.
Measure the resistance between pin 45 and pins 26, 46, 40, and 60 (at the 60 pin ECM connector).
If any reading is less than 10K ohms, repair shorts in wiring.
If all readings are 10K ohms or more, replace the MAP sensor.

 

On my anolog meter for ohms i have 10, 100 or 1000. I would use 10? Will check for shortd first. Would unplugging the Map and try starting a few time then recheck the codes help? How do i check for resistance at pin 45, would I put the poss probe on pin 45 and my neg probe on the battery ground? So that will tell me if i have a break in that wire? I'm willing to learn. Thanks again

 

I would pull the connector off that ECT and check it with ohms on the 20k scale, if it reads open which it probably does replace it. Then I'd address the other codes after that disappears.

 

If I remember correctly all these sensors are fed off the same 5 volt ref signal. So its possible you have a wiring issue with key on check for 5 volts at each sensor...

 

mike, do yourself a favor. "mtstud" just told me to "****". i would not trust his advice. i dont have good advice either, but dont take "mtstud" seriously. you'll thank me later. i promise. o and save yourself the time, mtstud. dont reply (even though you probably will), it would be of everybody's best interest if you did not

 

Dude, get a life.

 

why dont you? why dont you get lost. o and by the way, THERES NO SCHOOL ON SATURDAYS, O THATS RIGHT YOU PROBABLY DIDNT GRADUATE HIGH SCHOOL. i'm sorry, i didnt realize that you were that imature to make that statement "get a life"

 

lol I won't appease you with anymore replies.

 

well, i know you'll read this so this is why i wrote it. thank you for getting lost. we all appreciate it.

 

Wow. Take a couple of days off from the computer, and I miss out on all the fun.

Don't worry about the other advice in this thread, as it would really be a waste of time. You're correct as far as the two temp sensor codes are concerned, and the test procedure I outlined will find exactly which wire, if any is shorted.

You really should consider moving up to a digital multimeter, but we can work with what you have. Set your meter on the 1000 ohm scale (that's what the 'K' means), and stick one test probe (it doesn't matter which one, but to better explain this, lets say you use the black one) to pin 45 at the connector. Then touch the other test probe (the red one) to pin 26, and read the meter. Then move the red probe from pin 26 to pin 46, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 46 to pin 40, and read the meter again. Then move the red probe from pin 40 to pin 60, and read the meter one last time. Remember to leave the first probe (the black one) on pin 45 the whole time.

If any reading is less than 10,000 ohms, that means there is a short between that wire and the wire that goes to pin 45 (the blue MAP/BP wire). Check the other side of the connector to see which wire goes to the pin with the short, and trace it backwards, into the engine compartment, until you find where it's shorted.

If all of the readings are 10,000 ohms or higher, that means the wiring is fine, and the problem is a defective MAP sensor.

Did that help explain it okay?

Let me know what your results are.

Take care,
~Chris

 

You don't think it may just be a few bad sensors?

 

I just replaced the map sensor. Wont start. I tried with the pedal to the floor. Removed the wet plugs and let them dry over nite, plug's still wet even being out over nite. It's 20 deg now so i don't the gas is drying up???? I turned off the gas and cranked the engine without the plugs in, a few times, with pedal to the floor. Anything else I can try to get rid of the extra fuel? Should I put in a new set of plugs just yet? When it starts I will change the oil and filter to.