Yes. I had to do that on July 4th, 1998, a month after my warranty expired. I did it in a few hours, and had the truck on the road in time for lunch, but give yourself a whole day to do it.
get a FelPro 1-piece gasket. It comes with these really trick little alignment studs that makes the installation simple. You'll need to crank the engine so that the timing mark on the balancer is at TDC. That will help give you clearence later.
Drain the oil and the radiator.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan shroud on, and slide the shroud over the fan, towards the engine.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the bolts for the motor mounts, and put a floor jack with a large piece of wood under the front of the oil pan.
Slowly jack up the front of the engine just enough to slide a piece of 1x4 in between each motor mount and the frame.
Let the jack back down.
Remove the pan bolts, and let the pan rest on the crossmember.
Reach into the pan, and loosen the two bolts that hold the pump pickup tube, and let the pickup drop into the pan.
Slide the pan out.
Clean the gasket surfaces with Brakleen, and follow the directions on the gasket box to reinstall the pan with the new gasket.
Do everything above backwards to reinstall.
I got a 94 F150 4.9 2wd and I have to replace the oil pan tomorrow (rusted and leaking) 4-7-07 I have never did anything like this before I hope it goes ok.
But I'm gonna give it a shot and if I have problems I'm sure I'll be posting ??
I've never removed the radiator, or dumped the coolant (though that doesn't hurt). Just unattach the fan shroud (leave it in there loose) so the fan doesn't break it. Pull the 2 nuts from the engine mounts, jack the engine up until it hits the firewall, & drop the pan.
Well everything went fine up until the part were I was to slide the old pan out.
I could tell once the pan was loose it was gonna be a problem. I was still a 1 1/2" short of clearance to get the old pan out and the new on in. I had the nuts off the motor mount bolts with if jack up as high as I could the bolts of the motor mounts were all the way up until they were pushing up on the hole the bolts go through. I would have had to remove the nuts that hold the motor mount bracket to the engine then jack the engine up three inches off the motor mount, thats saying if I could have even got those 8 big a$$ nuts loose that hold the motor mount brackets to the engine. Not to mention the other problems I could have run into jacking the engine up 3 - 4 inches off the motor mounts without disconnecting everything as if the motor was coming all the way out. So I didn't even bother with disconnecting the filler tube, I just pulled the old gasket off cleaned it up the best I could and slipped the new gasket down and around the filler tube and installed the old pan with the new gasket.
Then I used a oil and gas adhesive sealant to seal the rusted pin holes in the oil pan then used an enamel paint to cover the rusted areas of the oil pan.
So all in all pretty much a failed attempt at a new oil pan but I stopped the leak for now until I can firgure out what I'm gonna do. The good news is that I did replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and I got everything put back together the truck runs fine and I not leaking any oil for now.
That just means your engine/trans sit a little further forward than most others. If you had loosened the trans mount (which is slotted on the x-member), you could have continued lifting it & gotten the pan out. It's still a tight fit, but it DOES fit. Loosening the exhaust between the cat & muffler might also help. When you lower it, you might have to pry a little to get those engine mount studs to drop back into their slots.
I'm looking forward, with joyful anticipation , to this job myself. My '96 2wd is not leaking (yet) but from what I hear only a matter of time before the pan rusts through. Since there's no hurry I'm waiting until MC season finally arrives here so I can get around if (when) this job turns into a cluster**** Thanks Steve and PKRWUD, great info as always.
I actually had the transmission mounts loose with the nuts off but was afraid to keep jacking it up for fear of breaking off the studs of the motor mounts.
Because the motor mount studs were no where near coming out of the slot more like pushing up on the top of the slot.
Maybe if next time I reposition the jack back a little it would help.
Thanks for all the info guys I would have been totally lost without it.
1996 F-150 SB 2wd 4.9l
FWIW: I finished this pan replacement job a couple days ago and, at least in my case, there was some info both here and in the Chilton book that wasn't quite accurate. When I got to the step of -"letting the engine back down onto the 1X4" pieces of wood placed between the frame and the motor mounts" and then -"remove the oil pan" I found there was NO WAY and that it wasn't even close. I had to remove the EGR valve (for additional engine firewall/clearance) and jack the engine up until it hit the firewall. This then required 2 1/2" of wood shimming between the mounts and the frame.
Another area that was a problem for me was getting the oil pump drive hex rod (or whatever it's called) positioned correctly to enable it to mate into the corresponding female hex on the pump as I was trying to install the pump up into it's position all the while working on my back and with limited space because of the new pan on the cross member. I finally used a 5/16" allen to turn the pump until it lined-up and slid together.
All-in-all one of the most difficult jobs I've done and I was EXTREMELY grateful when started it and there were NO LEAKS!
PS: Those small LED backpacking type headlamps are the sh*t on jobs like these
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