Here's the scoop on my '98 - Replaced the compressor 2 yrs ago, then the following spring it wasn't cooling good so I took it back and they found a leak on a bad joint (not fixed right I'm sure). They charged me yet another $250 (on top of the prvious $800) to recharge it after they "fixed" the leak. Now of course this year I'm back to the same thing and I refuse to pay them to do a job they obviously can't do. So I had a partial can from another car I recharged a bit, I though I'd see what pressure it was at.....the compressor wouldn't kick on, so I put a shot in there a few times and eventually the compressor kicked on for a few seconds and the pressure was in the correct range for a few seconds, then fell low. So I added a bit more, now the pressure comes up again and it cylces on and off fairly quick. Vent temps don't seem to be to much different though..? Do I still need to add more? I'm wondering if it should stay constant pressure in the proper range or if it should drop everytime the compressor kicks on? I just don't wan't to overfill it. I'm hoping the leak seal in it will actaully help (he says doubting it)

 

Sounds like it could be the cycling switch on top of the accumulator. Easy fix and not expensive.

 

The switch is working just fine.

Compressor short-cycling is almost always due to low refrigerant charge.

 

ok - I'll try putting more in - just don't want to overdo it I guess. I'm at about 8 to 6 oz in so far I think. Thanks

 

At most auto parts stores you can get a hose with a guage on it that will show a range to be in based on outdoor temp. For a '98 that's what it do, charge it when it needs it.

 

Sounds like you have a low refrigerant charge. You have a leak in a seal somewhere.
Your pressure will drop when the A/C comp kicks off. Proper charge on the A/C can be read by a gauge when the compressor is running. Ambient air temp will determine the proper amount of refrigerant charge your system needs.

 

I am not sure if the compressor on the 98 uses an electro-mechanical clutch, regardless there are a few things you should do. I would recommend that you completely evacuate the system. You want to get any moisture out of it. You should get a "sniffer" and determine if you are losing refrigerant. Look at the underside of the compressor as well as the high and low lines. Purchase a set of gauges that monitors the high and low side. The proper setup will have 3 hoses, high side, low side and the tap for the refrigerant. As for evacuating the system, I am not going to tell you that you should vent it into the atmosphere, however there are no CFCs so nothing to react with the ozone. But it is still a greenhouse gas and it is still poisonous. But the high side is a Schroeder type valve that you can cover with a rag when you bleed. Technically you should bleed it into a container. Regardless if you want the best results you need to discharge the system as this gets any moisture out. I am not going to say anymore about that process as I don't feel like getting flamed today lol. As for charging, the outside air temperature is very important to note when re-charging the system as it correlates with the pressures you should be seeing on the high and low side. Many people will tell you not to use stop leak, but I have had mixed experiences, most recently it worked like a champ. The 04-08 system holds 40oz. of refrigerant. I don't recall what the previous gen holds but it is listed under the hood or radiator cowling. There are a myriad of videos you can watch online that will walk you through the process. Good luck and "stay cool"

 

I'm not a fan of the leak sniffers. The UV leak detector is much better.

 

Just add more my 98 was doing the same thing and i put some in it and it's doing fine.The people i bought it from said they have to add some every year at summer time so next year i will fix the leak but till then i will add some if it needs it. Hope this helps

 

Why was a thread that was dormant for two months bumped? The guy hasn't even visited the site for six weeks!



If you're this unknowledgeable about refrigeration systems, you should leave them alone.

 

That's ok - this site isn't exactly overunning with tons of replies and everyone helps a bit - even if it's a bit late, it could help somebody else with similar problems. I added a bit more - about 8-9 oz and the pressure seemed to hold about right but may be a bit low....I decided to wait until it gets good and hot - which this week will be. SO far it's been "ok" and hasn't lost pressure. Since the system was completely evacuated (at the cost of $250) not that long ago I am not crazy about laying out cash to a place that obviously couldn't get it right the first 2 times!! I'll tackle it myself until it pukes....then forget about it. I have no faith in most shops these days! I'll bleed some off and add it back when we get this heat wave, we'll see how it goes.....thanks for your input fella's!! I made some progress and the weather has been really nice since!!! :>)

 

Mine is cycling fast and doesn't cool but the refrigerant pressure is in the normal range. How do I troubleshoot this switch? Is normally open or closed?

 

If it's short-cycling, the pressures are NOT normal.

 

But the gauges show that the pressure is in spec, therefore I suspect the pressure sensor switch. This is why I am asking how to troubleshoot them. Am I headed in the wrong direction?

 

And what are the low and high side pressures under what ambient and load conditions?