1997 trailer running/parking lights not working
#1
1997 trailer running/parking lights not working
Hi everybody. I have a 1997 F-150 4x4 with 5.4 / auto with factory tow package. I was towing my trailer this morning and found that I do not have running/parking lights on my trailer. I know it isnt the trailer because it works on a friends truck. I have checked all fuses associated with the trailer in the power distrobution box and the small one behind it under the hood. I can't find any blown fuses. I took a test light and a meter both out to the trailer fuse in the power dist box. It is number 1 and is a 20 amp. I have no power on either side if this fuse with the trucks parking lamps on. I also do not have power at the plug at the 7 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions. Any ideas on what to try next? I can't find which relay triggers this to try and check it. My owners manual doesnt list which relays run this. I just dont know what else to do. It is driving me nuts.
Thanks,
Chip
Thanks,
Chip
Last edited by Chip3338; 03-30-2009 at 12:10 PM.
#2
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
The PDB ( power dist box / engine compartment fuse panel ) Fuse #1 is hot at a times. This feeds both the trailer tow adapter parking lamps and the backup circuit.
You should have power at this fuse all the time.
I have to ask the dumb question, are you sure your ground was good when testing the fuse ?
There is nothing else between this and the battery, aside from the guts of the fuse panel.
What do you get if you pull the trailer tow parking lamp relay, and test for power using the relay socket ?
This is the half ISO relay shown in the additional relay panel on the back of the PDB.
The relay info :
You can test with pin 2 and pin3.
pin 2 is ground
pin 3 is common terminal = Fuse #1
you can also verify the ground you were using before with the ohm setting between pin #2 and what you were using, should have very low resistance.
pin #1 in the socket should have power when the truck's parking lamps are on.
If you have power at pin #3, you can jumper the pin #3 to pin #5, and you should have power at the trailer tow adapter.
The easy test ( sure you know this ) is the ground is the exposed pin in the 4 pin adapter , and the other 3 "recessed" pins are turn - park - turn, so use the center of those 3.
Let us know what happens.
You should have power at this fuse all the time.
I have to ask the dumb question, are you sure your ground was good when testing the fuse ?
There is nothing else between this and the battery, aside from the guts of the fuse panel.
What do you get if you pull the trailer tow parking lamp relay, and test for power using the relay socket ?
This is the half ISO relay shown in the additional relay panel on the back of the PDB.
The relay info :
You can test with pin 2 and pin3.
pin 2 is ground
pin 3 is common terminal = Fuse #1
you can also verify the ground you were using before with the ohm setting between pin #2 and what you were using, should have very low resistance.
pin #1 in the socket should have power when the truck's parking lamps are on.
If you have power at pin #3, you can jumper the pin #3 to pin #5, and you should have power at the trailer tow adapter.
The easy test ( sure you know this ) is the ground is the exposed pin in the 4 pin adapter , and the other 3 "recessed" pins are turn - park - turn, so use the center of those 3.
Let us know what happens.
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Brown w/ White stripe from the diagram above.
The relay socket can be a PITA to jumper, you have to have the small male spade terminals, or file down a regular sized one to get them to fit in the socket.
If you are sure you have a good jumper in there, the next place to look for it is back by the hitch.
I have not seen a '97/'97, but I would suspect the connector to be in the same place.
Take a look, this is along the frame by the spare tire. If you are going to be testing here, it is easier to get to if you drop the spare tire.
When you tested, did you check both the 4 pin and the 7 pin adapters ?
The relay socket can be a PITA to jumper, you have to have the small male spade terminals, or file down a regular sized one to get them to fit in the socket.
If you are sure you have a good jumper in there, the next place to look for it is back by the hitch.
I have not seen a '97/'97, but I would suspect the connector to be in the same place.
Take a look, this is along the frame by the spare tire. If you are going to be testing here, it is easier to get to if you drop the spare tire.
When you tested, did you check both the 4 pin and the 7 pin adapters ?
#12
It about 32 deg outside. I only have a carport so i will wait until tomorrow after work. I am going to drop the spare tire and check at that connector. I took the trailer plug apart and it looks like new. The weather cover on it kept it in nice shape inside. I also have another proble with my truck. Is the voltmeter a printed circuit? My voltmeter has been jumping around for a while. It did this years ago. I replaced a bad alternator and it seemed to quit. Every time I use the emergency brake and release it, it screws up the voltmeter. I know I have a lose connection but for the longest while it wasnt even working. Now today I used the parking brake and it started working again. I used to be able to hit the dash and have it stop jumping around. Today I did that and it quit working again. If it is a printed circuit I know it is shot. Can I just replace the voltmeter or is it all one big asemble included with the rest of the dash display?
#13
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Trailer Tow Issue
The Trailer tow adapter plugs into the factory harness by the spare tire on the 1997, same as the 99+
You are looking for the Brown w/ White Stripe wire
This way you can test from the trailer tow adapter to this connector ( ohms ) and then from the front to this connector for power, or if you have some wire, put on a small male crimp, and install it into pin #5 in the relay socket.
Even though the swap showed no change, might be best to bench test the relay, and make sure it is OK.
Ohm meter from pin #1 to Pin #2, should show 82 to 100 Ohms of resistance
Next Ohm meter the pins #3 and #5. Without power should show infinity for ohms, and then apply power to pins #1 & #2, and the meter should show no / low ( ~ 5 ) ohms.
this would confirm the operating state of the relay.
You are looking for the Brown w/ White Stripe wire
This way you can test from the trailer tow adapter to this connector ( ohms ) and then from the front to this connector for power, or if you have some wire, put on a small male crimp, and install it into pin #5 in the relay socket.
Even though the swap showed no change, might be best to bench test the relay, and make sure it is OK.
Ohm meter from pin #1 to Pin #2, should show 82 to 100 Ohms of resistance
Next Ohm meter the pins #3 and #5. Without power should show infinity for ohms, and then apply power to pins #1 & #2, and the meter should show no / low ( ~ 5 ) ohms.
this would confirm the operating state of the relay.
Last edited by SSCULLY; 03-31-2009 at 04:07 PM.
#14
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Cluster / volt meter issue
You can pull the cluster and take a look at the back in that area for a cold solder joint that finally gave up.
The other part of pulling the cluster, is to reseat the connectors on the back of it.
If there is a problem with the volt meter, that is actually built into the cluster electronics.
The other part of pulling the cluster, is to reseat the connectors on the back of it.
If there is a problem with the volt meter, that is actually built into the cluster electronics.