I will be installing my Mark VIII electric fan this weekend w/DCC control unit, guys with an E-fan where did you get the power with ignition on only from? I also have to tap into my A/C compressor to have my E-fan on high with the a/c, do you know what color the wire is? Any info would be great!



Thanks

 

i'll get you a picture of the power wire in the morning

 

Thanks!

 

Anybody else have an E-fan?

 

the slot i used and the one in front of it are hot only when the ignition is on, no power with the key at ACC

 

Thanks!, Exactly what I needed.

 

Can I hook up an intercooler pump this same way?

 

I would use that lead to trigger a relay that is tied to the battery.

Not real sure what the draw the pump is, but the relay route it does not matter ( to the fuse block ).

 

i think it only draw 2.1 amps

 

"draws"

 

I would use a that to trigger a relay, with a fused circuit to the battery.
The relay socket pictures above is for the Trailer Tow battery charge ( full relay 302 ).







If you add 2.1 A on Central Junction box ( CJB aka Passenger Compartment Fuse panel ) Fuse #23, you might blow the fuse from load, or current in-rush from the pump.

CJB Fuse 23 is for :
Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay
Turn/Hazard Flasher
4x4 Solenoids
4x4 Relays
Overhead Console
4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Module

 

Ok so Could you explain how I would run the wiring for it? Thanks for all the help

 

This is the drawing I have handy, so I will refer to it :



Get some 16 or 14 AWG wire, some female spade terminals ( at least 5 ) at least 2 ring terminal ( round loop with a crimp ), and at least 1 male spade crimp terminal.
Automotive Relay ( Bosch or similar, available at Autozone, Napa, etc ).


The Device, kind of self explanatory, that is the Intercooler Pump.

The wiring for the Intercooler pump is wired to the relay ( terminal numbers are on the bottom ) to terminal # 87, using one of the male spade crimp terminals.
Terminal #30 is wired ( male spade terminal ) to an inline fuse to the battery positive terminal ( you will need to check the size of the ring terminal needed here ) .
Any line fuse will do, just as long as it can handle a 5 A load

The ground on the Intercooler pump you will need to wire in ( not sure if it has a ground lead, or just uses the motor itself ?? )

On the relay, terminal #86 will be spliced to ground using one of the male spade terminals on the relay side, and a ring terminal on the other. There are a few ground you can use. Battery is fine, and there are a few grounds on the inside front fenders ( for the headlamps, etc ).

The coil on the relay is activated by applying power to terminal # 85. This is a length of wire with 1 male spade crimp terminal, an 1 female spade terminal.
The male terminal is placed into pin #86 in the relay socket in the Battery Junction box ( use BJB / engine compartment layout above to locate the correct one, and the relay socket drawing / the picture for the correct placement of the male spade terminal.

The drawing shows an inline fuse to terminal #85. This is a good idea in general, but not 100% required. If you do install an inline fuse here, a 1 A fuse will do, as the coil only draws about 0.25 A.

That will do the trick, you now have a circuit that is activated by the key in the run position, that will not overload the truck's factory wiring.

You can get carried away if you want to, and install an Aux fuse block like the ones at www.fuzeblocks.com.
This would remove the need for the relay noted above ( built in ) and give you up to 30A of hot in run position circuits, and up to 30A of hot at all times circuits, over 6 fuse positions.
You would just need the Fuzeblock, some 12 AWG wire, and the ATO fuses you need.
Take a look at them, it could prove useful in the future.

 

Thanks so much for all the info!! rewired the pump according to your diagrams and it works like a charm