The driver's and passenger switches are in series, and if either have a problem, it will stop the window from functioning.
Starting from the base :
1. Check that the window motor is still good.
1.1. option #1 pull the door panel, and apply 12 V & ground to the lead on the motor. polarity one way is up, reverse is down. The lead you would be looking for is the one at the end of the white wire here :
1.2. Option #2, pull the switch panel up ( pop the front spring clip up of the switch panel up, and there are tabs on the back ) and remove the switch from the harness ( 2 tabs on the ends of the connector release it ). Apply power to the wiring harness in the door on the Yellow w/ red stripe ( pin 3 ) & Red w/ Yellow Stripe ( pin 6 ) in the connector to the switch. This is the switch side of what that white pig tail is connected to.
If the window works, then it is down to testing the switches, to make sure both are good with an ohm meter.
here is the diagram, for the contact pairs :
Starting with checking the window motor for operation ( direct wire to 12 V & ground ) then checking the switches one at a time, seems to be the best route to take. Might get a few other posts with suggestions.
I'm having this exact same problem on a 2003 XLT extended cab and it began yesterday. It's been raining quite a bit here since, but thankfully the window was up when it failed. I have some additional questions and please bear with me, as I'm a complete novice on this. Indeed, this is the first vehicle I've ever owned with power windows and though they shouldn't be, the electrical systems on vehicles are often a mystery to me.
To restate, it's a 2003 XLT extended cab and the passenger's side window is completely unresponsive to either switch. The driver's side is fine.
How exactly do I use a multimeter to determine whether or not a switch has failed? So far I have set it to measure ohms, disconnected the plug between the switch and the motor, connected the positive end to the wire leading to the motor and touched a bolt in the body panel with the negative end. This yielded no response whatsoever.
I also touched the positive end to the wire coming from the switch and the other end to the same bolt. This yielded a reading of about 4 ohms, IIRC. The keys were not in the ignition at the time. Shouldn't this have yielded no response because there should be no complete circuit? Could it indicate a short somewhere?
I'll be checking the motor tomorrow and plan to run a wire directly from the positive terminal on the battery to the "down" wire on the motor. Could I cause further damage if I accidentally touch it to the "up" wire? Should I be looking for a safer connection?
You are setting your meter to ohms, to check for a good switch, but checking from the motor to ground. Not something that is needed right now.
Try this, if you have a digital meter:
With the connector shown above on the motor unplugged.
1. Set the meter to DC Volts.
1.1. Might be a V with a dashed line over a solid line, like an equal sign.
2. On the connector towards the switch
2.1. Put the red probe on one pin
2.2. Put the black probe on the other pin.
3. Turn the key on
3.1. press the window switch down.
3.1.1. You will see either:
184.108.40.206. + 12 V ( or 12.6 / 13, depending on the state of your battery, but something more then 10 V )
220.127.116.11. or - 12 V DC.
3.2. Press the window switch up
3.2.1. You will see either ( but the opposite reading from 3.1. ):
18.104.22.168. + 12 V
22.214.171.124. or - 12 V DC.
3.3. Turn Key to the off position.
3.4. Set meter to ohms ( or might be the Greek omega sign )
3.5. place the red probe on one of the 2 pins in the connector towards the switch.
3.6. place the black probe to the body bolt you used to get 4 ohms before.
3.7. you should see less then 10 ohms
3.7.1. This is checking the ground supplied from the driver's door.
3.8. place the red probe on the other pin in the connector towards the switch.
3.9. black probe on the same body bolt.
3.10. you should see less then 10 ohms
3.10.1. This is checking the ground supplied from the driver's door, on teh other side of the switch.
If both of these are less then 10 ohms, the ground supplied to the motor is good.
If you do see these readings, there is a problem with the motor, as the switches are supplying voltage to the motor, the motor is just not moving.
4. Confirm Motor Operation
4.1. On the 2 pin connector TOWARDS the motor, connect a pos lead to one side, and a neg to the other side.
4.2. If the cab lights dim, and nothing happens, reverse the leads ( you were trying to push the window up more, and the load was seen ).
4.3. If you reverse the leads, and the cab lights dim, and nothing still happens = bad motor I would say.
Give that a try and let us know what you come up with.
If you do not get voltage in step 3.1 or 3.2, there is some more checking to be done on the switch, and the circuit, but that is a bit longer post I'll wait on, to see if you need it.
.....i want to do that but my passenger side only has two dimples. what should i do?
Crap ! I did not have that problem.
You can try to eye ball it ? Use the rivets on the door and other 2 holes, in the picture, as a reference point ? Maybe the 3rd hole use a 1" hole saw to give yourself a bit more room around the bolt ?
I am really taking a SWAG here, aside from that I am out of ideas.
sorry for crap quality, it was only a camera phone, but i think u can see it to get an idea. question is where to drill/or which rivets to take out because there is liek 6 or something liek that there
Everything performed as it was supposed to until I got to the motor. I ran wire directly from the battery and touched a lead to each side. There was a spark at the lead (with a tiny wisp of smoke) and a faint "click" from the motor, but no other response. I then switched the leads and got the same result. I guess it's the motor then. That leaves me in the same boat as 4wd150 because I can't find a third dimple either...
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