Ok, who has the best secret to waxing a white truck so you can see where you have been and where you need apply next?

 

http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-white-wax.html

Is say the best thing to do is wash it outside, then clay bar and wax in the garage with plenty of light so you can actually see the wax

 

If you can obviously see where you have put wax on, you are putting it on too thick. That applies to any color.

 

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Been kind of busy. But since I have owned and detailed so many white vehicles over the years, I should probably offer my advice.

As for putting the wax on, I always apply as little as possible so as to avoid the headaches that come with trying to get it back off. I use fairly small rotary motions with a foam applicator and move across, down, then across in the opposite direction - one panel at a time. My horizontal stripes overlap about 10% to assure coverage.

When it comes to taking the product off, I always use my best microfiber towels and pretty much exactly mimic the technique I used to apply the product. Then I use back and forth motions to do the entire panel again. Finally, I use up and down motions for one last pass. So that means I have 3 chances of removing all of the product.

No matter what you do and how hard you try though, you will almost always miss something. That's when pulling the vehicle out into direct sunlight comes into play. It's pretty hard to hide anything in the direct sunlight.

Hope that helps.

 

You need plenty of bright lighting to work on white vehicles.

Once you have removed the swirls (using a compound and then a polish), the only stuff I have seen that makes white paint "pop," is Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant topped with Wet Glaze 2.0.

Jim

 

Collonite 845 (for a soft glow) or Menzerna Power Lock for a logger lasting and somewhat "crystal" shine. You can also top the Menzerna with Collonite for the best of both worlds.

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

 

Oh no! NOT Beechkid!!!!!

Jim

 

Another vote for Collonite. Waxed my white truck for the first time with it a couple weeks ago, went on and off easy, and water beads off it like no other wax I have used. I can practically sheet all the water off the doors leaving almost no water to wipe up. California duster glides across it with easy and dust comes off easily.

 

So Beechnut, who even mentioned clay? Please, crawl back into whatever hole you were in, light another one and stay there.

 

Ah there it is...Beachkid on his mom's computer again posting the same outdated, crappy, wrong data again for the umtenth time.

We've already proven your credibility of less than zero and we've called you out countless times to prove yourself and yet you lurk, troll and post without merit yet again.

To the OP...listen to Tom...he knows white and I mean that in the most detailing kind of professional way.


RollingRock (Tapatalk killer)

 

Well, I have read this ridiculous blurb so many times and decided to finally create a video. Here is a mild clay, similar to the clay quoted above (I have done tests with the white Megs's clay too but don't have any left) being compared to 5000 grit sandpaper, that is much finer than the 3500 grit quoted above.

Keep in mind that very aggressive like Meg's red will induce SOME marring, even it isn't remotely comparable to sandpaper.

Enjoy...

 

best way I've found to not miss spots it to try to keep the area your working on small
go from a body line to a body line or edge - not trying to do an entire panel or vehicle all at once

a small piece of tape can be stuck on the body to mark the end or edge of a work area
then go around and buff the entire panel after it's been done in smaller sections - for any colour

 

Now that's what I call a totally awesome, factual and informative post! Not only does it conclusively put what Beechkid has (repeatedly) posted to death, but it was done using real time video on his own tailgate! (Talk about taking one for the team!) Nice work!

As for Beechkid's repeated posting of the same misinformation - including inconclusive pictures taken in bad lighting 25 years ago - I hope this is the last time he uses the copy and paste function.

And for those of you (Beechkid) who think the tailgate was ruined in the process, you're wrong. Some fairly quick polishing restored it to good as new condition.

 

Thanks 2Stroked. I just posted the follow up in this thread in case anyone is interested.

Here is the Link
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ca...ml#post5084839