Fiberglass boat & turtle wax ice??
#1
Fiberglass boat & turtle wax ice??
Dumb question but I dont care.
Turtle wax ice is super easy to apply and looks good for a month or so. At least on my black truck. I have a boat that is black and white. The black part near the water line is oxidized and no matter what I throw at it I can't get it to shine like new. It is moored in the water and I take it out about every 6 weeks or so to clean it. I was thinking about using TWI on the oxidized area to see what happens. I dont want to make anything worse by applying it though. It says dont use on glass. I know that means glass, not fiberglass but it doesn't say you can use it on fiberglass either.
Opinions?
Turtle wax ice is super easy to apply and looks good for a month or so. At least on my black truck. I have a boat that is black and white. The black part near the water line is oxidized and no matter what I throw at it I can't get it to shine like new. It is moored in the water and I take it out about every 6 weeks or so to clean it. I was thinking about using TWI on the oxidized area to see what happens. I dont want to make anything worse by applying it though. It says dont use on glass. I know that means glass, not fiberglass but it doesn't say you can use it on fiberglass either.
Opinions?
#2
It doesnt matter what you use, you'll never get rid of the oxidized area unless you leave your boat out of the water except for when you're using it. Boats get an oxidized area at the water line because that area is being exposed to direct light, and indirect light (sunglight reflecting off the surface of the water). Your only options are to buy a boatlift and slip cover, or to take the boat out after each use.
#3
First, I'll move this up to General Care to help get you a variety of answers...
Second... no, TWI isn't going to remove the oxidation. I would suggest utilizing products specifically designed to remove oxidation on fiberglass.
A product like Meguiar's M-49 may be a good option for you.
Further, mechanical methods may be necessary; you may not be able to do it by hand. (rotary)
Following the oxidation removal, you'll want to put something to help protect and prevent it from happening again -- although, being that it's moored, it will be a constant uphill battle. I'd recommend a product like M-63 which is a synthetic wax...
Here's a link to Meguiar's website with their boat line:
LINK
From there, I'd recommend running over to Auto Detailing Solutions and purchasing there as they have top-tier service and really fair prices.
Beyond Meguiar's, there are a LOT of quality products out there. TWI probably isn't a good choice of products for your application, however.
-RP-
Second... no, TWI isn't going to remove the oxidation. I would suggest utilizing products specifically designed to remove oxidation on fiberglass.
A product like Meguiar's M-49 may be a good option for you.
Further, mechanical methods may be necessary; you may not be able to do it by hand. (rotary)
Following the oxidation removal, you'll want to put something to help protect and prevent it from happening again -- although, being that it's moored, it will be a constant uphill battle. I'd recommend a product like M-63 which is a synthetic wax...
Here's a link to Meguiar's website with their boat line:
LINK
From there, I'd recommend running over to Auto Detailing Solutions and purchasing there as they have top-tier service and really fair prices.
Beyond Meguiar's, there are a LOT of quality products out there. TWI probably isn't a good choice of products for your application, however.
-RP-
#4
I just did our MasterCraft with the Meg's Fiberglass kit and it went from.
This
To this
Here is the thread I started in the detailing section with more pics.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ca...-ski-boat.html
This
To this
Here is the thread I started in the detailing section with more pics.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ca...-ski-boat.html
Last edited by dsq3973; 05-22-2009 at 09:20 AM.
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#8
I've done it by hand and used a power buffer with no luck. The oxidation remover almost makes it look worse. It sucks to because if I do get the shine back someday the hull cleaner I have to use to clean the slime off when I pull it out of the water will take off any wax that has been applied.
#10
I was laughing when I wrote that as I couldn't remember what it is called. It's a makita 180 mm electric polisher. Same thing I use to buff out the truck.
http://www.hg.com.au/images/productP..._9227cbfc1.gif
http://www.hg.com.au/images/productP..._9227cbfc1.gif
Last edited by CraigH; 05-22-2009 at 09:00 PM.
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I was laughing when I wrote that as I couldn't remember what it is called. It's a makita 180 mm electric polisher. Same thing I use to buff out the truck.
http://www.hg.com.au/images/productP..._9227cbfc1.gif
http://www.hg.com.au/images/productP..._9227cbfc1.gif
#14
#15
i have a few questions lol
1) what year/make is the boat?
2) is it kept in fresh or salt water? (i assume fresh water)
3) do you leave it tied to a dock or moored to a bouy?
4) is the boat bottom painted or bare gelcoat?
one of the customers in our marina has black gelcoat striping and one side of the boat is jet black, the other grey... one side got more sun than the other so it faded it. usually once it begins to fade, its extremely hard to get back to original.
1) what year/make is the boat?
2) is it kept in fresh or salt water? (i assume fresh water)
3) do you leave it tied to a dock or moored to a bouy?
4) is the boat bottom painted or bare gelcoat?
one of the customers in our marina has black gelcoat striping and one side of the boat is jet black, the other grey... one side got more sun than the other so it faded it. usually once it begins to fade, its extremely hard to get back to original.