HOW TO: Passenger Window Lock Bypass - 2004-2008 Ford F-150 SuperCrew

NOTE: This how-to was done on a 2005 Ford F-150 Supercrew, but the principle applies to many years and may even work on the 2009+ models.

The passenger window lock can be a great thing or a total annoyance. Just about every window lock from Ford disables the window controls for the rear and passenger windows. This may be fine if your wife or girlfriend doesn't mind having absolutely no control over their window. But for many, we'd like to lock the back window for the kids, but give ourselves control up front.

This how to is actually very easy and requires one 12 gauge wire splice. On a scale from 1 to 10 (hardest being 10) this is about a 2. Before you begin, make sure you grab the necessary tools:

1. Scraper or flat metal/plastic tool
2. Small flat head screwdriver
3. 10mm ratchet wrench
4. Wire stripper with the stripper towards the nose
5. Wire crimper with the crimper towards the nose
6. Wire cutters
7. Needle nose pliers
8. Multimeter

You will also need the following items to make sure the project goes smoothly:

1 - Yellow 12 gauge quick splice connector
1 - Yellow 12 gauge crimp connector
1 - Yellow/blue crimp terminator
1 - 1 ft length 12 gauge wire
2 - Small cable ties

All of these things you can get at Napa auto for about $8 (although you'll have plenty extra). So, let's begin.

STEP 1: Loosen the Passenger Door Switch Panel

Using your thin scraper or other tool, gently pry the passenger door switch cover up.



You will need to do this to gain access to the window switch connector so that you can test for connectivity later on.

STEP 2: Remove the switches and pull the connectors loose out of the door
Gently pull the connectors and harness out of the door a little. This photo shows the connector for a Supercrew.



Locate the YELLOW/GREEN (yellow with green stripe) wire on the window connector. If it does not have this wire, use your multimeter and test for 12VDC with the window lock off, and 0VDC with the window lock on.

MORE...

 

STEP 3: Remove the Door Sill Plate

Remove the passenger side door sill plate. Use a scraper and screw drivers to gently pry the panel out of the door area. Set the door rubber seal aside as much as you can.



This is done so that you can get the A pillar cover off of the fuse box.

STEP 4: Loosen up the panel covering the fuse box

Use a small screwdriver or trim removal tool to take the snap fastener out of the top of the panel.



Gently pry the panel loose (there are snap connectors next to the rubber door seal).

STEP 5: Remove Fuse Box cover

Remove the fuse box cover (door) and set is aside.



Remove the trim panel covering the fuse box as well.

STEP 6: Loosen the Fuse Box bolt

Using a 10mm socket wrench, loosen up the fuse box bolt.



Gently pry the fuse box away from the a pillar in the direction of the steering wheel.

STEP 7: Locate and disconnect the accessory connector

Locate the connector on the back (towards the right side A pillar) of the fuse box with the orange, red, green, blue, and black connectors. Disconnect this connector and locate the BLUE/BLACK 12 gauge wire.



The wire that's going to be tapped is located in the photo to the far left. It is the BLUE/BLACK (blue with black stripe) wire.

MORE...

 

STEP 8: Locate and cut the window lock wire

Locate the wires coming in from the door right behind the fuse box (look way up into the inside of the A pillar). There will be a 14 gauge YELLOW/GREEN wire (yellow with green strip) and the harness will run right next to a 10 gauge black GROUND wire. You can easily locate this harness by referencing the door connector found in the door jamb that connects the wires to the door itself (square black and white box connector).



Cut this wire about 3" from where it goes into the pillar. Using your wire stripper with the stripper in the nose, strip the wire coming out of the A pillar (heading towards the door) approximately 1/4".

Crimp the other side of the wire going to the body wiring harness using the 12 gauge terminator cap using your crimper tool.

STEP 9: Splice into the accessory power wire

Use 6" of 12 gauge wire and a yellow tap quick splice and connect it to the 12 gauge BLUE/BLACK (blue wire with black stripe) wire. Use a pair of pliers to compress the metal tab first, then click the quick splice cover in place.



Check to make sure the cover snaps in place snugly. Do not use the cover to compress the metal tab into the two wires being spliced.

STEP 10: Crimp the splice wire into the door wire

Use a 12 gauge yellow crimp connector to connect the yellow splice wire to the YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the door.



If you haven't done so already, make sure to cap off the other YELLOW/GREEN wire going to the body wiring harness so that you don't get a short.

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STEP 11: Check the connection and cable tie the wire

This is when it's the right time to use an ohmmeter to check that the window connector and the fuse box connector have good connectivity. Place one lead of the ohmetter into the YELLOW/GREEN wire connector for the window switch and the other lead into the BLUE/BLACK wire connector for the fuse box. Ensure 0 ohms.




Zip tie the wire in place. Reconnect all connectors, include the ones on the door. Test the window to ensure you can open and close it using the passenger side window switch with or without the window lock switch enabled on the driver's side door.

When the passenger window switch works with the window lock on, you know the bypass is a success. Reattach all fasteners, covers, and plates.

STEP 12: GRAB A COLD BEER

Grab a beer or a nice cool beverage. Enjoy!

 

Great writeup, definitely a good mod with kiddos in the back.

 

Great write up...now I'm going to have to find another way to irritate the girlfriend

 

good job

 

Thanks everyone!

If anyone is curious about the window wiring, download the wiring diagram PDF file here:

http://rapidshare.com/files/24981976...F-150.pdf.html

 

What about when your kids are older and sitting in the front seat with you ? Then they can annoy the crap out of you by rolling it up and down and you cant do crap about it. You also cant keep your wife from rolling the window down when you fart and you want her to smell it. LOL!!! Good write up and pics and to each there own , but I think if you have kids in the car and your wife wants the window down , its really not that big of a hassle to flip a switch. Unless shes smoking all the time and she shouldn't be doing that with kids in the car anyways. Just my .02 cents......

 

Thanks!

Good point, but the kids (and wife) already have access to the door lock. And that can be even more annoying without any way to disable it even with the windows set.

Lock. Unlock. Lock. Unlock.

 

Update................


I used a different method to do this.

I removed the the panel covering the fuse box and the fuse box cover, then pulled the the door sill plate back for access.

I traced the wires down the harness and cut the Yellow/Green wire about two inches into the plastic channel of the door sill.

I capped the loose end that leads towards the rear of the truck tucked it back into the harness.

Then I used a Scotch Lock Wiring Connector at the other end of the Yellow/Green wire that leads towards the window switch, and spliced it to the Light Blue/Black wire at the front of the sill plate. (I ended up soldering this connection as I have had Scotch Lock Connectors fail)





https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...-bypass-2.html

 

Keith,

YOU ARE DEAD TO ME!!!!!!

I just did this mod Tuesday while I was doing the high beam/fogs mod. There would have been SO much more room for soldering in the door sill!

Nice simplification.

 

It's not my fault!

tbraquet was sending me instructions on how to post pictures and he took his sweet ol time. So if anyone is at fault it is him!

 

Thanks THATS SOOOOOOO wrong, Here I am trying to help a fellow F150 onliner and you throw me under the bus like that. You suck LOL.

txarsoncop:
I don't blame you for hating him. I'm not sure if I want him as my friend now, you can have him.

Keith:
At least in the future you want be able to blame me for you not knowing how to post pics. I am glad the instructions worked out for you. I hope to see more pics from you in future posts.

IT'S ALL GOOD
You do rock Keith and make sure you post some pics when you do your heater core bypass.

 

Busted!