2015 F150 Body Work Input Needed
#1
2015 F150 Body Work Input Needed
I found some scratches on the side of my bed when leaving a parking lot. They are white and barely catch my fingernail but there are also a few spots where it looks like I can see a silver/grey color instead of the white. The truck is race red. I tried wet sanding with 3000 paper and rubbing compound with the orbital polisher but that didn't get rid of them. The scratches almost disappear when wet. I have an estimate from a local Ford dealership and they want to take the entire bed off, bumper and tail lamp too, in order to fix. I'm looking from some input from guys who know bodywork and how much of a difference the aluminum body requires when repairing. Can an independent shop do as good a repair as the dealership? I tried to post a couple pictures but the scratches didn't show up in the pictures I did take. Here's a breakdown of what the dealership quote was.
Remove and Install bumper 1.1 labor hours
R&I tail lamp .3 hours
Repair left side bed panel 1.5 labor, 3.4 paint, 1.4 for clear coat
R&I Upper Molding .5 hours
R&I Front deflector .2 hours
R&I rear molding .1 hours
Replace bed decal .4 hours, $72.82 for new sticker
R&I bedliner 1.0 hour
R&I setback box assemby 1.5 hours
Corrosion protection .3 paint
Color tint .5 paint
Total 7 labor hours and 5.6 paint
$955.08 including tax.
Any input would be appreciated. I need this truck to last 8-10 years. Insurance deductible is $500 if I go that route. I just want to make sure whatever I do pay is reasonable for what needs done.
Remove and Install bumper 1.1 labor hours
R&I tail lamp .3 hours
Repair left side bed panel 1.5 labor, 3.4 paint, 1.4 for clear coat
R&I Upper Molding .5 hours
R&I Front deflector .2 hours
R&I rear molding .1 hours
Replace bed decal .4 hours, $72.82 for new sticker
R&I bedliner 1.0 hour
R&I setback box assemby 1.5 hours
Corrosion protection .3 paint
Color tint .5 paint
Total 7 labor hours and 5.6 paint
$955.08 including tax.
Any input would be appreciated. I need this truck to last 8-10 years. Insurance deductible is $500 if I go that route. I just want to make sure whatever I do pay is reasonable for what needs done.
#2
With the exception of the actual metal prep, paint repairs on aluminum are no different that steel. Basically you use a different primer and maybe a conversion coating. Keep in mind that car bodies have been being made from aluminum for over fifty years, it's only new to the hacks at the ford body shop. That said, those hours look about right for a quality repair regardless of substrate.
Last edited by stuck screw; 11-16-2016 at 08:46 AM.
#4
#6
If the OP wants top quality, skip the dealer and go where the local upscale cars like Porsche and Ferrari go. Those cars see huge depreciation with an obvious repaint so the shops are better at making a repaint undetectable.
Last edited by stuck screw; 11-17-2016 at 06:46 AM.
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