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  #1  
Old 04-09-2011, 08:38 AM
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Spindle nut Torque

99 2WD 4.6L

Hello all , i Left my Hanes manual at my cottage and im at home about to change my front pads and rotors. I need clarification on a couple of things.

What size socket do i need for the spindle nut?

Also, when re torquing the spindle nut back on, how many foot pounds do i torque the first time? then i back it off 1/4, spin my wheel a bit, then whats my final torque spec again?

Thanks ,
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:19 PM
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No one has any idea? When i took off the spindle nut it was loose enough that i spun it off with my fingers. I just need to know when i put it back on with the new rotors , How tight do i put it on? do i tighten it until the rotor stops spinning , then back it off 1/4?

after i finish tightening, should there be any play back and forth on the rotor, or none?
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:29 PM
glc glc is offline
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I am going to have to GUESS that you want about 100 ft/lb initial torque while spinning the wheel. What I've always done then is with the wheel stationary, back it off 1/4 turn then retighten with only your fingers. This also assumes freshly repacked bearings.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:56 PM
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Manual says....
"front drive axle hub nut" 221ft/lbs

I'm not sure if that is what your looking for though

Ooops, thats for 4x4 models with front drive axles

Last edited by Toyz; 04-09-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glc View Post
I am going to have to GUESS that you want about 100 ft/lb initial torque while spinning the wheel. What I've always done then is with the wheel stationary, back it off 1/4 turn then retighten with only your fingers. This also assumes freshly repacked bearings.
So initially tighten the spindle nut to 100ft pounds with my torque wrench, to seat the bearings correctly? Then loosen the spindle nut back off, then only finger tighten while spinning the rotor until i cant tighten the spindle nut anymore my hand, then back it off 1/4?

is that correct?
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:47 PM
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Thats what I've always done. Tighten it, then back off 1/4 turn then hand tighten back on.
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:57 PM
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for my 4x4 its a 36mm nut...things a monster
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:16 PM
glc glc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wutagoalie View Post
So initially tighten the spindle nut to 100ft pounds with my torque wrench, to seat the bearings correctly? Then loosen the spindle nut back off, then only finger tighten while spinning the rotor until i cant tighten the spindle nut anymore my hand, then back it off 1/4?

is that correct?
No. Torque it down with the wheel spinning in its normal direction of rotation. Stop the wheel, back it off 1/4 turn, then finger tighten. After finger tightening as far as you can, back it off as little as possible to line up a cotter pin hole. There should not be any play in it. It wouldn't hurt to check them after driving it around the block - back them off and finger tighten again.

I just did a bit of reading - 100 ft/lb is excessive. I never use a torque wrench here, I just tighten it with a socket and breaker bar till the drag is quite significant. Maybe 30 ft/lb or so. All this does is force out the excess grease and preload the bearings.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:46 PM
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Yeah I've always just used a socket and breaker bar as well.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:06 AM
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Exclamation From the Ford Manual - doesn't agree with Haynes

Page 16-62
Ford Motor Co.
E-Series·Excursion·Expedition·F-Series·Navigator

1997-01 F-150, F-250 and Expedition and 1998-01 F-250HD, F-350, F-450 and Navigator

2-WHEEL DRIVE

The hub is part of the disc brake rotor and cannot be serviced separately. The inner and outer wheel bearing and races are serviced individually. Be sure to have a new grease seal when servicing the wheel bearings.
....[precautions & removal instructions omitted]
....
To install:

5. If needed, pack the wheel bearing with a suitable high temperature wheel bearing grease before assembly.

6. Install or connect the following:
-
Inner wheel bearing in the hub and brake rotor assembly
New grease seal
Hub and rotor assembly on the wheel spindle and install the outer wheel bearing.
Retainer washer and the spindle nut

7. Adjust the wheel bearings as follows
a. Tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm) while rotating the wheel and tire assembly to seat the wheel bearings.

b. Back off the spindle nut no less than 1/2 turn.

c. Tighten the spindle nut to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
8. Install or connect the following:
Retaining washer, so the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
Anchor plate, and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 125-168 ft. lbs. (170-230 Nm).
Anti-rattle clips, and install the disc brake pads.
Caliper
Wheels. Tighten the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm). [Not true for 14 mm wheel studs]
9. Check the wheel and tire assembly for proper rotation, then install the grease camp.

10. Lower the vehicle.

11. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
...
I posted this because the Haynes manuals have different information.
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:10 AM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by wutagoalie View Post
99 2WD 4.6L
What size socket do i need for the spindle nut?
I just removed my 2001 F150 2WD rotor.
The spindle nut fits a 27 mm 12-point socket. I also have a 1-1/16 inch 6-point socket that fits just about as well. I have a cheap micrometer & the nut measures closest to 1-1/16.

Last edited by artfd; 12-09-2011 at 04:02 AM.
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:10 AM


 
 
 
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