Replacing the rear main seal
#2
Well basically you need to remove the transmission and flexplate (or flywheel). If you have a manual this is a good time to install a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel.
If you have the trans out, I'd go ahead and install new motor mounts, new oil pump, and new oil pan gasket...you are just in need of a few hours more work for all that stuff.
In the driveway, I'd budget most of a day and get a buddy to help.
Hope that helps some...
If you have the trans out, I'd go ahead and install new motor mounts, new oil pump, and new oil pan gasket...you are just in need of a few hours more work for all that stuff.
In the driveway, I'd budget most of a day and get a buddy to help.
Hope that helps some...
#4
I am actualy in the middle of taking mine out and replacing it, what is the best way to get it out, my manual says to use a slide hammer and pull it out that way or use a screwdriver and very carefully pry it out. my seal is all rubber and looks like it could take some work to get out is this the right way, and looks like a slide hammer could just tear it up? I realy want to replace the pan gasket as well as motor mounts but its so damn cold out right now, truck is outside and its low 40's hight 30's.
#5
#6
#7
Originally posted by blksn955.o
Thanks I will try the screw trick that sounds like it might work, I saw in the manual that there was a special tool so I guess I will go pick one up when I get the new pan/rear stuff.
Thanks I will try the screw trick that sounds like it might work, I saw in the manual that there was a special tool so I guess I will go pick one up when I get the new pan/rear stuff.
If you replace the pan gasket, I recommend a standard vol and standard flow Melling pump. Good quality and not too expensive.
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#9
#10
I know I'm a little late, but I did this job less than a year ago. I found when I pulled my rear seal that there was a nick on the crank. I bought a repair sleeve from NAPA for $12. You clean the crank real good, coat the end of the crank heavily with red loctite and drive the repair sleeve over the crank with a wood block. Let it set a little while, wipe clean any excess loctite with thinner then drive the new rear main seal on. Its worth the extra $5 to go to the dealership and buy the ford seal, no autozone crap. The job took me about 4hrs. I have 92' f150, 4x4, aod trans. No more leak and been about a year and still going good. Hope that helps. BTW, don't forget the repair sleeve, I would never do this job without one. Probably should buy it before you tear it down, took about 4days for mine to come in.