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4373 8691 124929
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2010/05/07 11:28:15
4373 8691 124928
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2010/05/07 11:28:15
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2010/05/07 11:28:15
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2010/05/07 11:28:15
Before. Here's the car as it arrived first thing in the morning. Not bad, right? Other than the tires and wheel wells, it turned a lot of heads on the way in.
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2009/10/06 10:34:18
Hood Swirls. Looking a bit closer, one can see that the paint really needed some correction. Every body panel had marring like this from a winter on a dealer lot.
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2009/10/06 10:32:50
Front Wheel Before. Nice wheels, but they call it "detailing" for a reason. Note the black brake dust on the insdie of the wheel and the rusty / unpainted brake rotor hat. This kind of stuff drives me wild.
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2009/10/06 09:37:19
Rear Deck Before. Again, a good looking car that needed some attention to make it great looking.
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2009/10/06 09:37:19
Hood & Fender After. See what 6 hours of special attention will get you? Even in dorect sunlight, the car was virtually flawless. I used Poor Boy's SSR 2.5, then SSR 1 to correct and polish, follwed by Collonite 845 for an LSP.
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2009/10/06 09:35:24
C Pillar After. Here's another stunner. Just look at the depth of the reflections here. The car actually looked about one full shade darker when it was finished.
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2009/10/06 09:35:24
Front Wheel After. Remember that ugly wheel and rotor? I don't generally do this, but with the customer's permission, all 4 wheels were removed, polished front and back, and the rotor hats painted with high heat/ high gloss black paint. Nice huh?
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2009/10/06 09:35:24
After. This is the poster shot. As I said, the car looked pretty good pulling in, but look how good it appeared as it left. This shot is on the home page of The Detailer's Cafe by the way.
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2009/10/06 09:35:24
Interceptor Slotted Filter: One of the many one of a kind touches (you cannot buy this exact bar from Star) on my bar is the slotted filters. These give a distinct white "pop" at the center of each colored flash. The effect is a dramatically brighter flash from the rotators. I build these myself in all colors. You can also see the side mounted lower level amber LED here.
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2009/09/23 10:59:09
Interceptor Magnet Closeup: The other half of the quick connect system on my bar is a custom 8 magnet mounting system. Each magnet has a 100 pound pull, so it doesn't move. There is white vinyl sign material on the roof under each magnet to prevent scratching.
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2009/09/23 10:59:09
Switches: The whole bar is controlled with just two LED lighted switches. The left (red) switch controls the whole upper level and the right (blue) switch controls the whole lower level. There is one relay for each switch mounted under the hood and all wiring is hidden.
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2009/09/23 10:37:28
Quick Connects: To get into low overhead places, I created a quick connect system using two standard 4 prong trailer plugs run in opposite orientations to make hookup goof proof. This allows me to quickly remove the entire light bar in less than a minute.
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2009/09/23 10:37:28
Lower Front CLoseup: Here's what the lower front of the bar looked like before I added the amber filters to the intersection clearing lights on the lower level.
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2009/09/23 10:37:28
Brake Lights On: I elected to have two rear facing red lights that came on with my brake lights. Because I use low amperage LED bulbs, these are triggered by the high mount brake light on the rear of the cab.
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2009/09/23 10:30:54
Full Rear: Here is the rear view of the bar. The lower level contains brake lights as shown above on the outside edge, a set of amber LED wig-wags, then a set of amber 27 watt wig-wags. The upper level has 4 amber rotators.
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2009/09/23 10:30:54
Full Front: The upper level is the same as the rear, but the lower level has 4 LED wig-wags, 2 white strobes split evenly on each side. There are also 2 angle mounted 27 watt wig-wags at the front corners that now have amber filters.
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2009/09/23 10:30:54
Z Bracket: The basis for my whole syetm is what I call the Z-Bracket - due to its shape. Everything here is fabricated from 1/4" x 3/4" flat aluminum stock from Home Depot. I had to buy slightly longer bolts for the Cooler at the base.
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2009/09/23 08:52:10
Wiring Along Hood Release Cable: I tried to make all of the wiring look as "factory supplied" as possible. Here's the wiring running from the bracket to the right side of the truck. Some goes up to the high beam hot lead (to trigger the relay) and the rest goes to the relay and battery.
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2009/09/23 08:52:10
Top View of Cross Member: Here's the basic bracket system in place before mounting the lights. Everything was measured & mocked up with cardboard and / or thin aluminum stock before the final bracket was fabricated, painted and installed.
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2009/09/23 08:52:10
Center Cross Member Closeup: I needed to better support the center of the bracket and find a place to remount the Temperature Sensor. This is the bracket I came up with.
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2009/09/23 08:47:56
Center Cross Member: Here's that same bracket shown from the side.
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2009/09/23 08:47:56
Lights in Grill 2005: This is what the pair of Hella 500 driving lights (with 130 watt bulbs) look like with the hood closed. Note that the bracket is basically invisible. The grill does not cut down on light output appreciably and heat has not been a factor.
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2009/09/23 08:47:56
Lights with Hood Open: wWith the hood open, you get a better picture of what the whole system looks like.
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2009/09/23 08:47:56
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