My brakes suck!!
My brakes suck!!
i hate the way my breaks are, my petal feels really soft, what do you guys think is going out break booster or master cylinder, and yes i have changed the pads up front and shoes in the back and recently blead them
what? You broke your flower???
Oh, wait... you mean brakes and brake pedal?
You need to provide a more detailed description of your problem. You say your brakes are soft... does the pedal fade away once you build pressure or does it just take a lot of travel to build pressure?
Either way, its not the booster. Booster failure causes hard brake pedal.
If the pedal is just soft (but it holds once you build pressure) then it is a bleed issue. It could also be a problem with the flex lines at the wheels.
If the pedal drops away once you build pressure, then it is either a leak somewhere or a bad master cylinder.
Oh, wait... you mean brakes and brake pedal?
You need to provide a more detailed description of your problem. You say your brakes are soft... does the pedal fade away once you build pressure or does it just take a lot of travel to build pressure?
Either way, its not the booster. Booster failure causes hard brake pedal.
If the pedal is just soft (but it holds once you build pressure) then it is a bleed issue. It could also be a problem with the flex lines at the wheels.
If the pedal drops away once you build pressure, then it is either a leak somewhere or a bad master cylinder.
We need a sticky withe the proper spelling of a number of words that pop up almost on a daily basis. While I'm thinking about it, we need a forum for the 'Let's see' posts that run rampant lately.
Key off, pump the brake pedal several times.
Hold pressure on the brake pedal while you start the engine.
The pedal should sink 1/2 and inch to 1 inch due to the power brake system.
If the pedal drops slowly while holding pressure before you start the engine, there is either a fluid leak somewhere, or the master cylinder is bypassing. If the pedal sinks too much when the engine starts, check for fluid contamination into the brake booster. The evidence is fluid leaking down the front of the booster. Keep in mind, the power brake booster will cause the pedal to sink some when the engine is started. This is normal. If no leaks are found, the master cylinder is bypassing, and should be replaced
Hold pressure on the brake pedal while you start the engine.
The pedal should sink 1/2 and inch to 1 inch due to the power brake system.
If the pedal drops slowly while holding pressure before you start the engine, there is either a fluid leak somewhere, or the master cylinder is bypassing. If the pedal sinks too much when the engine starts, check for fluid contamination into the brake booster. The evidence is fluid leaking down the front of the booster. Keep in mind, the power brake booster will cause the pedal to sink some when the engine is started. This is normal. If no leaks are found, the master cylinder is bypassing, and should be replaced
Not to create another brake thread I'll just add onto this one. Brakes are soft and will go to the floor if I push hard enough although the braking force doesn't seem to increase linear like when doing so. Have bled entire system several times and replaced master cylinder. There's not enough power in the system to activate the ABS.
Is this just the way this truck is? 2006 expy EB.
Is this just the way this truck is? 2006 expy EB.
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Just a thought, but have you guys ever completely changed the fluid? I don't meat top it off when bleeding…I mean actually siphon out of the MC what you can get out, fill it up with fresh, and then start the bleeding process to get the old fluid completely out of the lines. I think you'd be pleasantly surprised at how degraded performance old fluid offers. Try it!
I always siPhon out all the fluid first when bleeding. In this case I also replaced the MC so new fluid is obvious. However after more searching I found the adjuster rid thread sticky. Search feature pulled this thread before the sticky for some reason. So please ignore.
I have the same problem with my 2007 F150. Truck only has 36000 km. Pads are still 1/4 to 5/16 thick. I have checked calipers and all are free moving with little clamp pressure. Pads all move freely and caliper pins are all lubricated and free moving. I have bled the system twice. First time there was air in rear lines. The pedal travel is excessive and worrisome as it is near the floor. Braking is not good and impossible to skid any wheels under a panic stop. I cannot find a mechanic that is familiar with this problem with most suggesting that I have to change the pads and calipers (because that is the only thing they know how to do, I suspect). Hope to get some worthwhile advice before I sell this truck and sign off buying Fords.
Also check vaccum lines for the booster. For that matter check all the vaccum lines.
As far as gbh goes i would try the pads first. 1/4 to 5/16 pad is not a whole lot of pad.
Fiz501 i would try what cash from tire rack suggested. see what happens.
As far as gbh goes i would try the pads first. 1/4 to 5/16 pad is not a whole lot of pad.
Fiz501 i would try what cash from tire rack suggested. see what happens.
soft brake pedal and excessive pedal travel is not a vacuum problem.
If you had a vacuum leak your pedal would be hard and you would have very little travel.
There are only 4 possible causes for soft pedal / long travel
1 - leak in a brake line
2 - air in the system
3 - bad flex line (stretching/bulging)
4 - internal leak in the master cylinder (bad seals)
Check the first 3. If its none of those then replace the master cylinder.
If you had a vacuum leak your pedal would be hard and you would have very little travel.
There are only 4 possible causes for soft pedal / long travel
1 - leak in a brake line
2 - air in the system
3 - bad flex line (stretching/bulging)
4 - internal leak in the master cylinder (bad seals)
Check the first 3. If its none of those then replace the master cylinder.
the spelling thing cracks me up tho I see tons of people askeing about break petals and all kindes of uther stiff
to the OP get some stainless braided lines for your truck should only be about 100 bucks and when you put them on do a complete fluid change I think youll be happy then
Last edited by MI02SVT; Oct 27, 2012 at 01:17 PM.


