Difficult to find rims with the 5-5.5 inch backspace recommended on the forum. I did find ProComp with proper backspacing for my 06 FX4 with level kit. They are hub centric. I researched hub centric. They allow the rim to be supported by the wheel hub rather than the lug nuts. Is this a "better" set up for every day use or is it meant for exterme off road?

Also was going for the BFG M/T KM2 in a 305/60/18. I had a thought: if I go with a taller tire like a 35x12.5x18 wouldnt this be like getting a 3 inch lift kit? The 305/60/18 is like a 32x12 so I would gain 3 inches in height, yes? Any problem with this or do I go to a 20 inch rim and get the 305/55/20?

Rubbing issues with either of these setups?

 

Hub centric vs lug nut centric doesn't mean anything. Ones no tougher or stronger than the other, it's just a design.

If you go from a 32" tire to a 35" tire, you will only gain 1 1/2" of increased heigth.

 

I disagree. I believe that hubcentric wheels are a better design and less prone to vibration issues than lug centric wheels. I don't believe it really any stronger. Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric. My personal opion is they may be easier/cheaper to manufacture. Maybe someone can confirm this.

 

Wandell:
Thats what I read about hub centric. Galaxy states only 11/2 in. height gain? Hows that? If the tire is 3 in. "taller" dont I gain 3 inches? Also feedback on 35/12.5 18 vs a 20 inch rim with 305/50. Rubbing with the 18 inch 35x12.5 ???

 

tires are round. the extra 3in.s from the 35s means that 1.5ins are added all the way around to equal a total of 3inchs bigger. since only one side is hitting the ground then youre only going to get half of that.

 

I've never read anything between the two. If you guys fond some info, that's cool.

As mentioned, tires are round. Yes, the new tire is 3" bigger in diameter. If you sit the two side by side on the ground then yes, tha tire will stand the full 3" taller. But that's no how they mount on the truck. They are mounted on the center hub. Picture it this way...lay the bigger tire flat on the ground. Now lay the small tire on top of the bigger tire, but centered in the middle. Look around the radius of the tire. The bigger tire will stick out around the smaller tire by 1 1/2" all the way around the radius. Did that help??

Keep in mind too, a taller tire will not make your truck look like it has a lift. It'll just look like a stock truck with taller tires. If anything, the taller tire will fill the fender well more and give the appearance of less lift. It'll just raise you ground clearance by the 1.5" as mentioned.

 

Hub-centric is better. I done went through this crap when I got my wheels 2 yrs ago. Hub-centric wheels (like factory) are a snug fit when you mount the wheels to the hub. Like factory wheels, its not relying on the lugs to center the wheel.
Most aftermarket rims(if not all of them) are lug-centric. Most people don't have problems with them, but some do. When I first got my wheels they rode like crap. I done everything to try to solve the problem. Replaced tires, numerous balancing, etc. Thats when I found out about hub-centric rings. They fit inside of the aftermarket bore, to match the factory hub size. Made the ride so much better. Keep in mind, one lug that is off or bent in any shape or form can really infect the ride quality with a aftermarket rim. Because the aftermarket rim is relying on the lugs itself to center them.

If you ever noticed while rotating your tires, that when you first put the wheel on the lugs, that the wheels will not be centered and just kinda hanging there akwardly. With factory wheels, you put it right on the hub and its centered already. Highly recomment hub-centric rings.