Drilled Rotors

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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Drilled Rotors

Does having drilled rotors dramatically affect stopping distance? How about the life of the brakes? Are they worth the cost and what brands are best?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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From my understanding, drilled rotors are pretty hard on your brake life. You may want to consider slotted rotors instead.
Upgrading to better calipers, LARGER slotted rotors, and braided break lines would result in better load handling and stopping distance. Depending on the size of your rims will limit the size rotor you can go to.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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I'm using the stock 18's. I was just interested to see if the drilled rotors would make a difference. I thought slotted would be worse, wouldn't that be like running a potato through a potato peeler? That's what I imagine every time I see slotted rotors. I figured since the drilled is a lot smaller it wouldn't act the same, just release the gasses that get built up.

ADDED: God these database errors are annoying. I don't understand why they happen so often.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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power slot/power stop. im either going with drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted. they are about $300 shipped for both axles, and goin with hawk brake pads. no reason to go with ceramic or expensive pads, but better rotors definately help braking and keep the brakes cooler, as well as cutting down on brake dust.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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$300 for all front and rear rotors? That's not bad. As for wear, which will last longer? Slotted ot Drilled? Are my potato peeler fears unfounded or is drilled better?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Heres to very good threads with a ton of useful info
"Stoptech thread"

Drilled/slotted rotors thread

Another good read


You are going to get strong opinions from both sides, and it all depends on your driving style.
After reading most of these threads, if you still are clueless about what to get, just get a good set of OEM style blanks.

and i think 300 is a bit on the low side for the NBS trucks. I am also planning to upgrade soon due to large heavy wheels and horrible driving habits that have rendered my stockers warpped more than once and will probably do a slotted up front and slotted out back, or perhaps a set of quality blanks depending on price of either.
 

Last edited by Fabian06SC; Aug 7, 2009 at 01:27 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 05:43 AM
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Yeah, sorry Fabian, I had a brain fart and figured I was the first person ever to ask this question. My bad.

So through all those threads, I have read a whole lot of arguing back and forth. I can see the logic in releasing gasses and cleaning the surface of the pad. I'm starting to sway in that direction, but how do you know which brand to trust? I'm worried about quality, not price. I won't be getting these in the near future, but it would give me somewhere to aim. I don't want something that's going to crack. Are StopTech rotors trustworthy? Are Centric Posi Quiet pads a good buy? How about Hawk pads? I am staying away from eBay crap. This is the one system that a cheap deal is uncalled for.

My driving is mainly going to be daily driving. Probably 20% of my driving in a year is at highway speeds and about 5-6 months of the year is going to be cold and full of snow. I will also, on occasion, need to pull a trailer.

With that above, what do you guys suggest? I want experiences that you've had, not hearsay.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mtylerb
Does having drilled rotors dramatically affect stopping distance? How about the life of the brakes? Are they worth the cost and what brands are best?
Mine came from RotorPros...shipped from CA to SC w/Centric PosiQuiet pads (all 4 wheels) for $320...I thought it was a pretty good deal...The non-towing performance increased BIG TIME and now I can STAND ON 'EM while towing and no more warped rotors!!...



If anybody needs more braking than you have now, contact this guy

Richard Cantillo
E-mail Address(es):
rotorpros.net1@yahoo.com

I was having a problem warping rortors left and right towin' my boat (tried trailer brakes for years, too much ying and not enough yang)...anyway, these guys sent a full set of grooved and cross-drilled ROTORS AND MY PROBLEMS WENT AWAY!!...price was not bad.

Thanks again
 

Last edited by reelapeelin'; Aug 7, 2009 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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in those conditions i honestly would just go with a good OEM style blank, perhaps from brembo. There will probably be no need to spend that much on them unless you really really WANT them for visual purposes.
There are guys here that swear up and down by the factory blanks, and my only thought is that they drive light. I am a very heavy footed driver, on both the gas and the brake, and in doing that, with the addition of heavy large wheels, it has rendered my stock rotors warped before. I therefor wanted a different option, and luckily i made the questions long before i actually needed the rotors. Now with all the replies i can make a good decision based on others experience with different types of products.

Just as an example here is how my process went.
Warped OEMs- Mad, wanted something that wasnt going to warp, and hate replacing parts before their useful service life.

Drilled and slotted looked cool, and in theory seemed that would cool the area, less heat= less warp-age right? I thought so... jumped on the drilled and slotted case.

Began to read more info, and started to notice that drilled rotors (even the good kind)
were cracking due to heat stress. Got me thinking, if i beat the heck out of my rotors to where they warp, im sure the same heat can crack the drilled.

started to look around to see what people with the same style truck heavy wheels and driving habits were doing. Many were warping rotors as well and upgrading to slots... and drilled. Few kept the blanks and just got a good quality pad.

Cracked pics started showing up, no warp-age on drilled but cracks isnt good.
So now i have made my decision. Im going to go with a slotted style simply to keep my quality pads biting. If the price seems to be to darn high i will probably go with a brembo or other high quality blank. I believe this is what will work the best for what i need.

I dont know how much difference the ambient temp makes on rotors, but 110 degree texas heat and hot rotors may not be the same as in Canadia
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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rotorpros, powerstop/powerslot, DBA, brembo are the only 4 companies i ever hear of. worth the extra $100 bucks to upgrade in my opinion
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
in those conditions i honestly would just go with a good OEM style blank, perhaps from brembo. There will probably be no need to spend that much on them unless you really really WANT them for visual purposes.

I tried a set of Brembos and they were only marginally better than stock Ford rotors...and I agree...if yer buying drilled and slotted rotors only because they "look cool" you might as well hang a racoon tail from your rear-view mirror...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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I am runing the cross drilled and slotted setup from rotor pros on my expedition, the autobahn to emergency stops are greatly improved amd I like the look
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by reelapeelin'
I tried a set of Brembos and they were only marginally better than stock Ford rotors...and I agree...if yer buying drilled and slotted rotors only because they "look cool" you might as well hang a racoon tail from your rear-view mirror...
really?
Well heck, if they are only marginally better i guess ill have to just go ahead and go with the powerslots.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
really?
Well heck, if they are only marginally better i guess ill have to just go ahead and go with the powerslots.

Yeah...the Brembos eventually warped just like the stock ones..., but now I'm slotted and drilled and
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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Just installed drilled rotors from powerstop, compared to my previous stock rotors i don't notice that much of a difference (other than the fact that they're not heinously warped), i have decent pads on there as well.
I don't tow anything except my double sea doo trailer which weighs less than 1000 pounds and I generally drive my truck pretty easy.
No problems so far, but as far as "performance" I agree getting powerslot, braided lines or 6 piston calipers will give you better braking.
BTW since i drive easy, I'm not as worried about cracking... but if you tow heavy or drive fast/brake a lot some research shows the rotors will crack
my .02
 

Last edited by Jeff-150; Aug 11, 2009 at 11:57 AM.
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