Brake job, some questions first...
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 390
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From: Chester County, PA
Brake job, some questions first...
Hey all,
My brake is getting squishy at about 40k miles, so I figured it was time for some new pads. It has basically led me to wanting to do the following (front and back):
1) Replace pads
2) Replace rotors (just to get the cool slotted/drilled look, really)
3) Install SS brake lines (loved SS brake lines on my last car)
4) Replace brake line fluid (some may say it's not worth it, but I have extra)
5) Paint my calipers (red to match the truck, already have the paint kit)
I've done some forum searches, and have done a brake job before with the help of some friends, so I kind of know what I'm doing, but am by no means an expert. So the questions I have are:
A) Since I plan to replace my brake lines and fluid, is it okay to complete drain the brake lines in the truck or will this cause some problems? (keep in mind I also purchased a pressure bleeding system to bleed the brake lines). I figure doing a total bleed would be easier since I could remove the brake lines and take off the calipers to paint.
B) Do I need one of those caliper cubes for the pistons? I saw some people using C-clamps, which I also have, but if I need a caliper tool, I'd like to go pick one up.
C) Many people recommended using anti-seize on the hub before putting on the new rotors. Any recommendations to brand or type?
D) Anything else to keep in mind? I know I may need to take a mallet to the rotors to get them off. Anything else?
For reference I have an 06 FX4. Thanks!
My brake is getting squishy at about 40k miles, so I figured it was time for some new pads. It has basically led me to wanting to do the following (front and back):
1) Replace pads
2) Replace rotors (just to get the cool slotted/drilled look, really)
3) Install SS brake lines (loved SS brake lines on my last car)
4) Replace brake line fluid (some may say it's not worth it, but I have extra)
5) Paint my calipers (red to match the truck, already have the paint kit)
I've done some forum searches, and have done a brake job before with the help of some friends, so I kind of know what I'm doing, but am by no means an expert. So the questions I have are:
A) Since I plan to replace my brake lines and fluid, is it okay to complete drain the brake lines in the truck or will this cause some problems? (keep in mind I also purchased a pressure bleeding system to bleed the brake lines). I figure doing a total bleed would be easier since I could remove the brake lines and take off the calipers to paint.
B) Do I need one of those caliper cubes for the pistons? I saw some people using C-clamps, which I also have, but if I need a caliper tool, I'd like to go pick one up.
C) Many people recommended using anti-seize on the hub before putting on the new rotors. Any recommendations to brand or type?
D) Anything else to keep in mind? I know I may need to take a mallet to the rotors to get them off. Anything else?
For reference I have an 06 FX4. Thanks!
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17
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From: San Antonio, Texas
I used a c-clamp on the calipers with no issues, so unless you want the cube on hand for future reference, it's up to you. And I can't remember if there is any bolt holes on the rotors to get them off of the spindle, or as usual, you can beat them off with a malet. Don't forget to get new spindle nuts for the fronts. And I've never bled the whole brake system before, so I'll let someone else answer that one.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,762
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ont.
The answers in my opinion are as follows
a) I'm assuming you aren't replacing the complete line front to back, just the small part going to the calipers so no need to completely drain the system. You'll have to give it a good bleed and that will drain alot out anyways.
b) A C-clamp with one the old pad on the piston is how you compress it for the even surface. Compress slow.
c) Yes yes and yes on the anti-sieze, Loc-tite or Permatex I forget, but use this on the hub especially and I use it on every spot the pad touches the caliper, sliders etc.
d) I don't think I'd get cross drilled (weakness issues) so go just slotted IMO. When it's time for the rears, give the e-brake assembly a good goings over.
a) I'm assuming you aren't replacing the complete line front to back, just the small part going to the calipers so no need to completely drain the system. You'll have to give it a good bleed and that will drain alot out anyways.
b) A C-clamp with one the old pad on the piston is how you compress it for the even surface. Compress slow.
c) Yes yes and yes on the anti-sieze, Loc-tite or Permatex I forget, but use this on the hub especially and I use it on every spot the pad touches the caliper, sliders etc.
d) I don't think I'd get cross drilled (weakness issues) so go just slotted IMO. When it's time for the rears, give the e-brake assembly a good goings over.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Chester County, PA
I used a c-clamp on the calipers with no issues, so unless you want the cube on hand for future reference, it's up to you. And I can't remember if there is any bolt holes on the rotors to get them off of the spindle, or as usual, you can beat them off with a malet. Don't forget to get new spindle nuts for the fronts. And I've never bled the whole brake system before, so I'll let someone else answer that one.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Chester County, PA
The answers in my opinion are as follows
a) I'm assuming you aren't replacing the complete line front to back, just the small part going to the calipers so no need to completely drain the system. You'll have to give it a good bleed and that will drain alot out anyways.
a) I'm assuming you aren't replacing the complete line front to back, just the small part going to the calipers so no need to completely drain the system. You'll have to give it a good bleed and that will drain alot out anyways.
Thanks.